One clue regarding the Crankshaft sensor, the tach will not move at all when cranking. Otherwise you should get a couple hundred rpm or so.

 

UPDATE:

tps is working properly. replaced the Crank position sensor. nothing... now it wont even start...... wth

 

.

 

ROB: no the tps was closed.

plus i got the new Crank position sensor on, and it didnt change anything, the car still wont start. its getting spark and gas, new gas just put in today... sprayed starter fluid thru in take while cranking....nothing

very very frustrated.

 

Marco,

Sorry to hear of the frustration... I feel you!!!

At the risk of sounding like a dummy, I want to revisit the TPS reading and ensure I understand what exactly your voltage readings were at idle and TWO (throttle wide open).

If set correctly, you will have 2 readings, what were they? Further, you should have seen a smooth consistent escalation in voltage from the idle to open positions while you manipulated the throttle.

The TPS is designed to send a variable voltage reading to the EMC. The voltage increases and decreases as the accelerator pedal is utilized, thus manipulating the throttle from open(ing) as in accelerating, to closed(ing) as in idle. While your foot is manipulating the accelerator pedal, the TPS is monitoring the position of the throttle and sends the appropriate voltage signal to the engine management system. The engine management system reads the signal from the TPS and in turn manipulates other components of the delivery system.

You may want to revisit the post by gunnerman and re-read his notes. He specifically referenced monitoring the range of the voltage readings and he noticed an erratic behavior on his, it didn't operate smoothly in it's voltage output readings, sot the TPS would have confused the ECM.

If you read the voltage at the idle position to be 4.85v, then the TPS is not set up correctly. You should have seen something in the .6v range at the idle setting. As the throttle is opened, the voltage output from the TPS increases, and at throttle wide open, you should see voltage at around 5.0v.

Do you have the Haynes manual for the vehicle?

You may want to look over this document as well, it contains the single page document I posted a few days ago as well. This may help to get a feel how all components interact with each other:

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13727793449746

Good luck, it will get worked out

PS: you can find the Haynes pages here: (scroll to pages 115/116 regarding TPS)

http://www.mediafire.com/view/xt9pic...l_(Haynes).pdf

 

ROB;

the tps was checked with the engine not running (wont start to begin with..), but ignition on, it read 5 volts reference... throttle closed

 

im very tempted to bring it to a jag only mechanic. i cant take the frustration

 

Marco,

I don't know if you have a mechanic already, but I suggest you go to the following link and post for referral in your area if you don't have one:

North East US - ME NH VT MA RI CT NJ NY PA - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Sorry I can't help more. I think you should be able to monitor the voltage output of the TPS even without the engine running, as long as you have power and your battery is in good shape. You can manually move the throttle with your hand while watching the meter. If you're confident you have the meter leads connected properly, you will be able to see the variance change while you manually move the throttle. It sounds like the TPS may be on backwards if the current "idle" reading is 4.85v.

Have you attempted to loosen it (TPS) with the meter properly connected to see if the meter reads any variance?

Again, Wish I could give you a magic bullet to fix this.

 

I experienced similar problems. Replaced most of the parts you did. Mine started ok with a slight hesitation at idle and under power, then one day nothing. Would turn over but not start. So I started replacing parts. Nothing seemed to work. A buddy who is a wrench came over and we rechecked everything. When it started getting dark he noticed a spark coming from the coil arching on the metal below it. Came to find out that I had a hair line crack in the coil. Replaced the coil $70 and put over 5000 miles on her since and no problems. Smooth idle, no hesitation. Just a thought. Mine too is a 91

 

If the car wont run momentarily on Starting fluid then you are too rich or have weak spark. I'd pull the fuel pump fuse and focus on getting the car to run on starting fluid. You may be seeing spark but it could be too weak to run the engine. Spark wont run a motor, strong spark will. Get a spark tester and verify the spark will jump across a signifigant gap. Good spark is blue and has a noticable snaping sound to it. If you have week spark work backwards, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module.