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My new Walbro pump was virtually identical to the OE pump but did not come with either the tapered or castellated rubber seals. And since Jaguar only offered the "fuel pump module" (including the plastic canister) as a replacement part, they won't be any help.
One thought is that you might be able to improvise by applying a gasoline/petrol-safe sealant around the pump at those two points, then sitting the pump in the proper location in the canister and allowing the sealant to cure overnight.
I'm not certain which sealant would be the best choice, but Permatex probabably makes something. Maybe this:
Good ideas Don, I guess building one out of silicone as you suggest is probably my best chance.
After looking at the design and function of that rubber bit, bit of a puzzle how and why it disintegrated like that - also, as far as I can see, it's primary purpose is to locate the pump into the pickup housing at the bottom of the canister - the gap on one side of the plastic receptacle is where the gas would enter the pump, right?, so I'm not sure the broken rubber would affect the suction/throughput - unless those bits clogged the intake - or am I missing something?
After looking at the design and function of that rubber bit, bit of a puzzle how and why it disintegrated like that - also, as far as I can see, it's primary purpose is to locate the pump into the pickup housing at the bottom of the canister - the gap on one side of the plastic receptacle is where the gas would enter the pump, right?, so I'm not sure the broken rubber would affect the suction/throughput - unless those bits clogged the intake - or am I missing something?
I'm not really sure - I would suggest you ask jaguarpete at the Jag-Lovers forum. There's something about a venturi built into the canister, and Pete understands it and can probably answer your question.
Have you tested the old pump with 12V? Just curious how/if it runs. Even if it runs great, I assume you'll install the new pump anyway for the peace of mind?
I can't remember if the new pump came with that seal or not,in my case the hidden rubber bits in the can were suspect,so I did away with the design and made things work logically.
Does the pump still work?Are the leads in the tank/evap flange still good?
How is the inside of the tank?
Should I speed up the process on Redd? I know it still works....
I hope you'll understand the explanation better than I do. When Pete starts talking about venturis and eductors my eyes glaze over.
Jim,
I recall that some of the Jag-Lovers members have done away with the canister altogether. Is that what you did in your modification?
Don
Don, I've had a couple of hours to thimk about what's going on with the canister and as far as I can tell, that seal only functions as a locator and vibration insulator. It probably got damaged when I opened the canister - I can't see any other possibility.
I'd like to fix it of course but unfortunately permatex etc isn't the way to go, as the only flavour that holds up in gas is that stuff you noted - however it doesn't ever set up or solidify.
I'm toying with reusing it at it's 75-80% efficiency, maybe orienting the missing piece to the rear of the locator or making something up, either using some gas-impermeable rubber or even going modelT old school on it and making one out of leather.
We'll see what happens when the new pump gets here; that'll be decision time for sure.
Jim, Seen all your pics and re-read "Champ died" many times since this all started, so well versed in your pix, but thanks anyway!
I checked the flapper valve on the eductor pipe base and it's working as it should, still not sure what the "blue donut seal" that Joe and Win on jaglovers are referring to as "burst", maybe theirs are blue but there's buggerall blue in my canister!
I should mention that the filter sock on my pump (outside) was very filthy and in my opinion severely restricted. Fuel filter was full of crap too. Other than that, everything seems ok ..I sure hope I didn't mess up and mis-diagnose this thing as a fuel issue ...still, I had no priming sound and no pressure when I swapped the filter and the plugs were dry and the pump didn't run when I jumpered the relay ...either that or I am going a bit more deaf than the old lady says and the pump did run!!
Hate to put it all back together and the car still doesn't fire up eh?
If I understand the purpose of the canister, it is to keep the pump primed and with a ready supply of fuel for faster starting and less susceptibility to starvation from fuel sloshing in the tank when the level is low.
The eductor draws fuel into the canister by venturi action (?), and the check valve on the eductor keeps the fuel from leaking back out of the canister. A second check valve at the outlet of the pump (I think it's built into the evaporative flange?) prevents pressure developed by the pump from dissipating back into the fuel tank. The check valve works with the FPR to keep the fuel rail pressurized for faster starts and proper atomization of fuel through the injectors, and it may also reduce the workload on the fuel pump.
Larry, while you have your canister apart, can you figure out if there really is a check valve in the flange, and if so, test yours to see if it is operating properly, with no backflow allowed?
As long as you don't let the fuel level in the tank to get too low (so the fuel pump doesn't lose its priming), Jim's mod should work just fine, but it would probably be a good idea to add an inline check valve somewhere between the pump and fuel rail. The easiest place to add a check valve is in the rubber fuel hose in the engine bay near the fuel rail:
Hi Don, I've got the top of the canister here and so we know what we're talking about, have labelled the components 1 through 5
underside of fuel canister lid
Item 1 is a check valve that allows entry into the canister but prevents exit, it appears to work properly.
The tube at #2 fits over the long eductor pipe at the base of the canister and seals with an o-ring. There's a check valve at the base of the eductor pipe which also functions normally AFAIK.
The pump outlet brass pipe fits into the part labelled #3.
#4 is the brass fuel outlet.
#5 is simply a isolator that locates in socket on the pump.
If I blow up the tube #2 the air comes out of #3. The reverse is also true, so that passage from the pump outlet is unrestricted.
Backflow to the pump is checked by the valve at the base of the eductor tube outlet to the tank. This is the valve that failed in Jim's canister AFAIK.
If I blow through the fuel outlet #4, the flow is blocked. I would have thought that sucking (unpleasant as it is) on that pipe would allow free flow but it seems severely restricted - even contorting to blow up through #3 the flow seems very minimal but of course the pressure from the pump would be far greater that this old pair of lungs of mine!!
so that's how those components behave in my canister, if there's a fault I think it must be in the fuel outlet between 3 and 4, but possibly it's supposed to behave that way?
Yup,there is a check valve,built into the outlet of the can.It it a brass barb,with a hex that looks like it will unscrew from the top of the can.
It does not unscrew!It is pressed in.There is a small brass piston,with an O ring,and stainless spring beneath it.
Hey Jim, springs and pistons eh, no wonder it felt restricted given my feeble blowing ability!
Still trying to find out what the heck is the "blue donut seal" is ... although ...I suppose it must be the seal that grips the pump outlet pipe - maybe you can only see the "blue" bit when it's kaput?
If I blow through the fuel outlet #4, the flow is blocked. I would have thought that sucking (unpleasant as it is) on that pipe would allow free flow but it seems severely restricted - even contorting to blow up through #3 the flow seems very minimal but of course the pressure from the pump would be far greater that this old pair of lungs of mine!!
so that's how those components behave in my canister, if there's a fault I think it must be in the fuel outlet between 3 and 4, but possibly it's supposed to behave that way?
I've never heard of the check valve failing in a blocked position, so I'm guessing you just need more pressure to open it.
I didn't test the check valve in our canister becuase I was in a hurry to replace the fuel pump in a day and a half while 6 hours from home. The check valve I ordered from McMaster-Carr required a minimum of 1 psi to open, but some of the aftermarket fuel check valves I researched required 5 psi to open. I wonder if the valve in the canister lid requires more psi than your lungs can deliver? If you have either an air compressor or vacuum pump you could try one of those to see if you can get one-way airflow with a little more pressure.
Regarding the new fuel pump, I don't know how pricey it was, but personally I would install the new one to lower the odds of having to pull the tank again in the near future.
I've never heard of the check valve failing in a blocked position, so I'm guessing you just need more pressure to open it.
I didn't test the check valve in our canister becuase I was in a hurry to replace the fuel pump in a day and a half while 6 hours from home. The check valve I ordered from McMaster-Carr required a minimum of 1 psi to open, but some of the aftermarket fuel check valves I researched required 5 psi to open. I wonder if the valve in the canister lid requires more psi than your lungs can deliver? If you have either an air compressor or vacuum pump you could try one of those to see if you can get one-way airflow with a little more pressure.
Regarding the new fuel pump, I don't know how pricey it was, but personally I would install the new one to lower the odds of having to pull the tank again in the near future.
Cheers,
Don
Hi Don, I did just check the lid/outlet/valve with my vacuum pump and it seems to be ok.
I am planning on installing the new pump for sure.
Just spoke to the postie who told me the pump was at the depot but didn't make it on to the truck today, maybe tomorrow.
09-07-2015, 04:50 PM
about what's going on with the canister and as far as I can tell, that seal only functions as a locator and vibration insulator. It probably got damaged when I opened the canister - I can't see any other possibility. 
