Rear end noise
#21
05-09-2009, 10:13 PM
Well It has been a long time in the making but I finally got time and weather to cooperate and the Output shafts are out and there is some slop in the driver side bearing and the a rough feel to the passenger side bearing.
Sorry for my absence I've been busy with getting the new house moved into, and getting ready for deployment. I have so missed my Jag.... So how the heck is everyone lol.
JagTech I'll probably be sending you a pm tomorrow about 2 bearing kits.
Sorry for my absence I've been busy with getting the new house moved into, and getting ready for deployment. I have so missed my Jag.... So how the heck is everyone lol.
JagTech I'll probably be sending you a pm tomorrow about 2 bearing kits.
#22
05-17-2009, 01:20 AM
Just to let everyone know how this turned out for future reference.
It was the output shaft bearings, huge amount of play in the drivers side bearing a slight amount in the passenger side bearing.
Parts for the repair was under $40.00 and on the shelves at the local auto parts store.
The bearings are a Napa (SKF) 6207-J and Napa SKF Oil Seal number 18662 sorry lost the o-ring parts bag so no number there but they found it no problem.
They one change to the listed rebuild procedure I will let others know about is the collars don't have to be cut off. The local machine shop when I took it in had a different method that they had used multiple times for the local Jag dealer and import shops. They just heated the collar and pressed it right off. Machine shop bill was only $22.00 so total cost was about $65.00 with diff lube.
She is now quite and smooth down the road the vibration and noise are gone and she is quite like a good Jag should be.
It was the output shaft bearings, huge amount of play in the drivers side bearing a slight amount in the passenger side bearing.
Parts for the repair was under $40.00 and on the shelves at the local auto parts store.
The bearings are a Napa (SKF) 6207-J and Napa SKF Oil Seal number 18662 sorry lost the o-ring parts bag so no number there but they found it no problem.
They one change to the listed rebuild procedure I will let others know about is the collars don't have to be cut off. The local machine shop when I took it in had a different method that they had used multiple times for the local Jag dealer and import shops. They just heated the collar and pressed it right off. Machine shop bill was only $22.00 so total cost was about $65.00 with diff lube.
She is now quite and smooth down the road the vibration and noise are gone and she is quite like a good Jag should be.
#25
06-19-2009, 02:05 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Same noise
Hi Armyjag, just wondered if you managed to trace your noise, i have exactly the same symptoms on my XJR.
Dragging noise on the over-run as you take the power off. Power back on-noise disappears.
Am going to change the diff oil, but wondered if you or any fellow americans had found it to be something else?
Many thanks for any tips,
Steve
Dragging noise on the over-run as you take the power off. Power back on-noise disappears.
Am going to change the diff oil, but wondered if you or any fellow americans had found it to be something else?
Many thanks for any tips,
Steve
#26
06-30-2009, 04:22 PM
#27
07-02-2009, 03:25 PM
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Posts: n/a
Diff noise
Thanks ArmyJag, i tried some heavier 'classic' oil in there, now makes the noise power off and on!
Have had it diagnosed by a specialist who insists its internal rather than the output bearings, which is a shame.
On the look out for a cheap diff now!
Thanks for your tips anyway.
Have had it diagnosed by a specialist who insists its internal rather than the output bearings, which is a shame.
On the look out for a cheap diff now!
Thanks for your tips anyway.
#28
10-22-2009, 12:23 PM
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More rear end noise
1990 xj6, cruising along, I can hear/feel br..br..br..br.. but when I take my foot off the gas I hear/feel BR..BR..BR..BR . any thoughts. Also changed the tranny mound. Bushing was disitergrated, now tranny seems to be hitting the top of the tunnel. What holds the tranny to the car other than the travel limiter strap?
Thanks
Thanks
#29
02-26-2011, 03:28 AM
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Need some help getting a part#
As for changing the output shaft bearings...
Grommet is right about only having to unbolt the axle (halfshaft) flanges. Use lots of penetrant, and a thin wall 11/16" socket. No need to hold the stud, just remove the four nuts. HOWEVER: you have to employ some method of limiting the axle travel once unbolted, or you will stretch the caliper brake hose. Not good. You can tie up the hub with a piece of rope or mechanic's wire to the rubber bump stop in the top of the wheel arch to hold the hub carrier and axle shaft in position, just don't stretch the brake hose. There is enough slack in the emergency brake cables that they will be unaffected in this position. Slide off the spacer (right side) and the spacer and speed transducer collar (left side).
Five bolts hold each output shaft assembly onto the diff housing, 5/8", tight all the way out from the needless locktite. Rotate the flange to reveal one bolt at the time and remove it. You often have to lever the flange to remove the assembly from the diff, no drama. There are preload shims installed in the diff housing for the output shaft bearings, pull them out and clean everything up. I never worry about measuring/ resetting bearing preload by altering these shims: my opinion is that they are selectively fit to compensate for machine tolerance differences in the differential housing and the output shafts, and that bearings will be close to identical. This approach has not failed me through hundreds of replacements, just don't lose a shim and you won't have a worry.
There is a large rubber O ring that seals the output shaft seal housing to the diff case, I neglected to mention this earlier but it comes in the kit, along with the bearing, output shaft seal and the retaining collar.
This next part takes longer that five minutes to write, and to execute. You can't press the retaining collar off the output shaft without splitting it first. The manual says to drill the collar and split it with a chisel, that's one way to cook the egg. Grommet's is another, you can grind it: I use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and make a diagonal slice, then shove it off with an air chisel while the flange is in a vise. MAIN POINT is that you don't want to drill or cut all the way through into the output shaft, it isn't much harded than the collar and you don't want to take much out of it. I've never seen one snap, but damaging the shaft could possibly lead to a crack somewhere down the road.
Now you can support the assembly in a press and the seal housing presses the bearing off the shaft. Remove the seal, clean the housing and shaft, make sure there isn't a nice groove worn in the shaft where the seal was tracking. I pack the new bearing with high temp grease before installation, they don't get alot of lubrication when the diff is running down the road and they can't start out dry. Press the new seal in the housing, slide it on the shaft, press on the new bearing first and then the new collar.
I clean the side of the diff housing with Scotchbrite, and use a wipe of silicone sealer and the new O ring. Don't forget the preload shims, a little grease on them helps keep them in place. Slide in the output shaft assembly, 45 ft. lbs . is fine for the bolts, the locktite is up to you. I don't use it there, and never have found one of those bolts loose with or without it.
You'll lose a little gear lube. One other small tip is to use Teflon tape on the drain and fill plugs: they are pipe thread, so this is completely appropriate, is an effective sealant, and makes subsequent removal alot easier. I think that's about it, like 1.5 hours a side but I'm not 15 anymore and I don't like having to say "we couldn't find the time to do it right, but we found the time to do it twice".
Grommet is right about only having to unbolt the axle (halfshaft) flanges. Use lots of penetrant, and a thin wall 11/16" socket. No need to hold the stud, just remove the four nuts. HOWEVER: you have to employ some method of limiting the axle travel once unbolted, or you will stretch the caliper brake hose. Not good. You can tie up the hub with a piece of rope or mechanic's wire to the rubber bump stop in the top of the wheel arch to hold the hub carrier and axle shaft in position, just don't stretch the brake hose. There is enough slack in the emergency brake cables that they will be unaffected in this position. Slide off the spacer (right side) and the spacer and speed transducer collar (left side).
Five bolts hold each output shaft assembly onto the diff housing, 5/8", tight all the way out from the needless locktite. Rotate the flange to reveal one bolt at the time and remove it. You often have to lever the flange to remove the assembly from the diff, no drama. There are preload shims installed in the diff housing for the output shaft bearings, pull them out and clean everything up. I never worry about measuring/ resetting bearing preload by altering these shims: my opinion is that they are selectively fit to compensate for machine tolerance differences in the differential housing and the output shafts, and that bearings will be close to identical. This approach has not failed me through hundreds of replacements, just don't lose a shim and you won't have a worry.
There is a large rubber O ring that seals the output shaft seal housing to the diff case, I neglected to mention this earlier but it comes in the kit, along with the bearing, output shaft seal and the retaining collar.
This next part takes longer that five minutes to write, and to execute. You can't press the retaining collar off the output shaft without splitting it first. The manual says to drill the collar and split it with a chisel, that's one way to cook the egg. Grommet's is another, you can grind it: I use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and make a diagonal slice, then shove it off with an air chisel while the flange is in a vise. MAIN POINT is that you don't want to drill or cut all the way through into the output shaft, it isn't much harded than the collar and you don't want to take much out of it. I've never seen one snap, but damaging the shaft could possibly lead to a crack somewhere down the road.
Now you can support the assembly in a press and the seal housing presses the bearing off the shaft. Remove the seal, clean the housing and shaft, make sure there isn't a nice groove worn in the shaft where the seal was tracking. I pack the new bearing with high temp grease before installation, they don't get alot of lubrication when the diff is running down the road and they can't start out dry. Press the new seal in the housing, slide it on the shaft, press on the new bearing first and then the new collar.
I clean the side of the diff housing with Scotchbrite, and use a wipe of silicone sealer and the new O ring. Don't forget the preload shims, a little grease on them helps keep them in place. Slide in the output shaft assembly, 45 ft. lbs . is fine for the bolts, the locktite is up to you. I don't use it there, and never have found one of those bolts loose with or without it.
You'll lose a little gear lube. One other small tip is to use Teflon tape on the drain and fill plugs: they are pipe thread, so this is completely appropriate, is an effective sealant, and makes subsequent removal alot easier. I think that's about it, like 1.5 hours a side but I'm not 15 anymore and I don't like having to say "we couldn't find the time to do it right, but we found the time to do it twice".
Hey "JagtechOhio"
Thanks to your write up i was able to dissemble the Differential On my 2000 Jag S-type. Now I have a question for you ?? By any chance do you have the part # of the Pinion Bearing ??. Thanks in advance
#30
09-24-2011, 03:29 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'm having the exact same issue with my 91XJ6. I placed it on all four jackstands and rev'd her up. Heard the noise from my r/r side of the diff. Will take your Jag tech's advise and change out the output shaft seals. I'm 80% sure that'll take care of the annoying noise..thanks!! New to this site and loving it already.
zanvinity
zanvinity
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Cadillac (09-24-2011)
#31
09-24-2011, 04:29 AM
Veteran Member
I'm having the exact same issue with my 91XJ6. I placed it on all four jackstands and rev'd her up. Heard the noise from my r/r side of the diff. Will take your Jag tech's advise and change out the output shaft seals. I'm 80% sure that'll take care of the annoying noise..thanks!! New to this site and loving it already.
zanvinity
zanvinity
#32
09-27-2011, 03:44 PM
estimate must be wrong!
howzit armyjag,
read your interesting ,informing article/reply re: these bearings etc ,addressed that and asked for a estimate from a local jag tech firm here in dallas but have no clue what he estimated cause after reading your example I came up WAAY short of $1700.
almost pulled what hair was left OUT!
am I missing something or,now I'm confused bigtime Army?
surely new shafts , etc must've been figured as well at those numbers .
thought i recalled seeing 1.5 per side to remove along w/machining costs for $30 each side or ? add parts for a final estimate of _____?, in your reply.
am i off base ?
sure appreciate this education, great forum w/meaning
peace,
will
read your interesting ,informing article/reply re: these bearings etc ,addressed that and asked for a estimate from a local jag tech firm here in dallas but have no clue what he estimated cause after reading your example I came up WAAY short of $1700.
almost pulled what hair was left OUT!
am I missing something or,now I'm confused bigtime Army?
surely new shafts , etc must've been figured as well at those numbers .
thought i recalled seeing 1.5 per side to remove along w/machining costs for $30 each side or ? add parts for a final estimate of _____?, in your reply.
am i off base ?
sure appreciate this education, great forum w/meaning
peace,
will
#33
11-14-2011, 09:17 PM
Junior Member
Just wanted to thank you all for this thread.
This weekend my son and I pulled his XJ40 apart and replaced the bearings as per the above instructions. The NAPA part numbers saved us alot of headache, as the parts guy said that nothing was listed for this car. He was shocked when I pulled out the part numbers and they were in stock!
One thing I will add for those that run across this thread:
We ended up having issues with the bolts spinning on the drivers side axle shaft coupling-You CANNOT get a wrench onto the bolt because of the tone-ring that goes over the coupling. We tore it apart a couple of times- then we realized that the threads must be perfectly clean on the bolt and the nut or there is too much friction and the bolt spins before it gets tight. Very frustrating and easily avoided if you are very careful about keeping the threads clean and ding free. There is no way to replace these bolts without pressing the bearing back off!!!
Again, thanks all!!
This weekend my son and I pulled his XJ40 apart and replaced the bearings as per the above instructions. The NAPA part numbers saved us alot of headache, as the parts guy said that nothing was listed for this car. He was shocked when I pulled out the part numbers and they were in stock!
One thing I will add for those that run across this thread:
We ended up having issues with the bolts spinning on the drivers side axle shaft coupling-You CANNOT get a wrench onto the bolt because of the tone-ring that goes over the coupling. We tore it apart a couple of times- then we realized that the threads must be perfectly clean on the bolt and the nut or there is too much friction and the bolt spins before it gets tight. Very frustrating and easily avoided if you are very careful about keeping the threads clean and ding free. There is no way to replace these bolts without pressing the bearing back off!!!
Again, thanks all!!
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