Because the radiator is larger (Wider than original) the top radiator support would not work anymore, so I had to use a spare one I had and chaged a couple of things and now it seem to be doing pretty good.

This is what is left of the spare support, it was the same before I took to it and it worked out a little beeter than I had hoped. Being a sort of "Z" shape, it sat on top of the radiator and dropped down just enough to allow the bottom part to tuck under the front and bolt up from the front a little to the sides of the hinges.

To give you an ider on how much wider this is, the 3 holes you see going down are what the headlight relays were mounted to, and you can clearly see the radiator protruding past the headlight opening. Hopefully I don't need to change the headlight mount to accomadate this.

I remember now what that other hole is, and it will need to be changed a little, it is the mounting hole for the headlight frame. I may be able to get away with cutting the bolt a bit shorter as a nut is all that goes on the other side.

 

There will be another 2 bolts put into place later on.

 

Yep - I have one one those radiators sitting in my shed as well, I did use the shroud (after modifications) and the electric fans that came with it though

Good to see you back on the forums

Cheers
Steve

 

Clive,

I'm thankful to hear that you are feeling better and am glad to see you back on the project. I'll be watching your updates!

Cheers,

Don

 

Well as so many things not planned as well as they should have been in the begining, number 1 not having the complete engine and transmission available when I modified the K frame. Well this meant I did not have all the information that was required to accurately fabricate the K frame to accommodate the parts of the assembly I did not know about entirely. I therefore ha bracing where the engine was going to sit and some framework I didn't even know existed.

This diagonal brace from the transmission to the engine, was one of the things I knew nothing about. This also meant that I needed to make a cut from the original bracing I made to be removed.

 

The next part of my stuff up was not thinking about the swing of the swaybar on the front. I took the measurements to clear all the engine components and this ended up making the swaybar totally useless, and so cutting away at the framework again left me with 2 separate pieces of a 1 part front end.

This is how the swaybar sat with the front suspenssion with the wheels off the ground, and that sawybar needs to swing downwards when the wheels touch the ground.

 

As a result I needed to make another jig to create a new K frame, only this time I do have all the information I need to creat something that will work. Fortunately for me I did keep a second K frame for some reason rather than throw it all out. The other stupid mistake I made was assume the engine mounts were taken from the centre line, not checking this mean that my assumed centre line was way off and explains why the engine sat to one side of the engine bay. This made a series of mistakes just get progressively worse.

The K frame here shows the front modifications as taken from a proper centre line. The diagonal bracing is there to hold everythin square as I assemble the parts. These were my mistakes and therefore it all sits with me. Fortunately not to expensive seeing as most of the expense here was time.

 

Now things have been put in place where they belong, you can see by this picture how far off centre the engine mount bolts were. I have intentions of placing a bolt in brace just below the steering rack. I have 2 different brands of rack however, I am not sure which one is best. One of the racks is an adwest unit, while the other is a ZF unit, I also have the steering column for both in case they are different in any way.

This picture is giving you an idea about how far off centre things are.

 

Just in case anyone is curious about the metal I have used in this veriant of modifications, the front is made from 75x8mm flatbar, and there will be a fish plate on both inside and outside of frame. As we take a look at the front of the K frame you will notice the swaybar now has room to move, and yes the brace accross the front was altered to clear the oil pan

As we turn to the next picture the front brace details can be better seen.

 

Just on a note, all of these things will be powder coated when done, I have no intention of stopping at the modified modification.

 

This might be a touch overkill, butI still feel it needs something more to hold the rear end of the K frame in place. Making sure there is plenty of room around them so nothing starts binding and stuffing up. I have checked everything 3 and 4 times now to make sure I don't make the same mistakes again, I feel pretty stupid letting it all go this far before realising I had stuffed up.
This picture just shows that I have given a bit of clearance rather than just force everything into place.
I also have a question to ask of you all, the 2 hoses going into the steering rack take up a lot of room, and so I am thinking that maybe a brass union 90 degree elbow would allow me to get a bit more clearance around the back of the Fords oil pan.

 

I am considering an elbow very similar to this, just need to find the thread size.

 

Hello everyone. I finally finnished the welding of the new K frame. All the extra reiiforcing has been done, fish plates all done. I was goingto run over it all with a needle scaler, but it started to rain so I decided to squirt a bit of cheap silver paint to keep a bit of the moisture out until it goes in for blast and powder coating.


Here we can see the extra diagonal brace at the 2 sides, and the fish plates on the inside as well as outside of framework, these all help everything stay where they should be. The next part was to have a bit of support for the rear of the K frame as well. This is more for my satisfaction of being strong enough, yes I probably have over engineered it, but I think I prefer that compared to the alternatives. Now it has started to rain, I really cannot do much else for now.

 

Well it turned out to be a bit of a soggy sort of day here, I felt I needed the assistance of some wheel dollies to move the body from side to side occassionaly. So I went and got 4 of these little critters.

Should make things a little easier with my somewhat limited room.

 

During my travels today I got a call indicating the stickers I had ordered have been done and so I went to pick them up, I got them copied and to the same size as the originals and the same colours as well

I am not sure about the black rocker cover sticker, I have an alternative plan now my vehicle has 2 rocker covers.
.

 

Time to start mixing things up a little,whilst all of these have been reproductions of what I had before painting under the bonnet. I decided to insert the Jaguar logo in the corner of the Ford stickers, that should confuse a few people at least.

I would probably be wiser to use the Ford stickers instead of the Jaguar ones, vehicle emission information being for a 6 cylinder may seem a little out of place now.

The white sticker here has the information about the firing order of the Ford 5.0l never know how handy it might be later on. The left/right leaper with the name Jaguar are going on the rocker covers and 1 on the fuel injector cover near where the fan use to be. There are 3 of each of these as I seem to be needing more all the time, the same goes for the leapers without the name, might need them one day.

 

Hello everyone, I was sitting in the pounge and started thinking about the overal condition of the engine, I got it all at what I thought was a good price. I knew I had to modify the oil pan because of the power steering pipes, and I needed to do a couple of other changes. So I thought it is out of the vehicle again and still haven't opened it up yet, so I figured I may as well check it out now while it is all opened up and see how good the engine really is, yes the compression was pretty good and it blew no smoke and had no rattles, but while that may indicate a fairly good engine it is not always the case. So off came the oil pan and I picke 2 random bearings to start with so I used #2 mains bearing cap and #4 rod bearing cap. Not the best I have seen, but it would probably be a good idea to send the crank in to be reground and new bearings installed.
[img alt="They may have lasted a few more years at a push, but it wasn't quite good enough for me. another little setback, but better knowing I fixed it now rather than later. So I took a look at the bearing numbers and could not see a size as I normally would, so a search of the part number indicated the bearings were both std sizes so no big deal getting the crankshaft reground and new bearings for rod and mains.
"]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/508x346/rod_and_mains_5095ba049c55d4f956278d4cdeac96ef1f1b 9405.jpg[/img]
They may have lasted a few more years at a push, but it wasn't quite good enough for me. another little setback, but better knowing I fixed it now rather than later. So I took a look at the bearing numbers and could not see a size as I normally would, so a search of the part number indicated the bearings were both std sizes so no big deal getting the crankshaft reground and new bearings for rod and mains.

the first picture is the mains bearing cap.

The last picture is the rod bearing cap. Going to go out again and start taking the top end apart and see what damage is in there. I intend to keep it reasonably stock, and although I am going to change a few other things if I need to do the block and pistons, aaaaand rings too. Let’s see how that goes.

 

Now there is 2 things I need to have a look at for the moment, #1 is the pistons and their clearances. So I remove one of the heads and found almost no play in the bores, but 1 thing that had me a tad concerned is there is almost no cross hatching visable at all. To be honest there may not be any, maybe I am hoping to see it when it is not really there. I stuck a wire wheel on the 5 inch grinder and cleaned the tops of the pistons, and they looked quite good.
I got a bit carried away and took one of the pistons out, minimal skirt wear, but that was about it. Sadly I got to carried away and put it back together before taking any pictures.

I am pretty sure it is also going to be renewed, so a rebore and new pistons. #2 This is a thing I have sitting in the shed and I have not been sure as to what I was going to do with them. These are a pair of GT40P cylinder heads. Personally I don't know much about them. Ford I believe used them on their 4x4 and light truck like the F150-350, and they seemed to have a better breathing ability. They used them on Explorers and a few other vehicles but I am not sure about what they were.

So how do you identify them? well on the front and rear of the cylinder head there are 4 bars going from top to bottom of the head
The next thing you can do is take off the rocker covers and you wil find GT40P in the casting as an identifier. Other than that I am not sure of any other way of picking them out of a crowd, like I said I am not sure about them to give any real heads up on them. However if you have these heads and you can get a hold of some of the GT40P matched intake manifolds and increase the size of the throttle body and EGR block and take them to 75mm, then you can get some noticeable gains in performance.

The next thing you can do is take off the rocker covers and you wil find GT40P in the casting as an identifier. Other than that I am not sure of any other way of picking them out of a crowd, like I said I am not sure about them to give any real heads up on them. However if you have these heads and you can get a hold of some of the GT40P matched intake manifolds and increase the size of the throttle body and EGR block and take them to 75mm, then you can get some noticeable gains in performance.

Here you can see the other side cylinder head which is not a GT40P. I had reason to believe that my engine was not a roller block and it would take quite a bit of work to make a non roller block work, I believe the cylinders for the cam followers are a bit taller to accomadate the roller lifters. yet here I see a spider that was made for the roller blocks, and on further inspection, it turns out the lifters are also roller lifters. Good news for me.

That is about all for me for today, that will set me back a little, still not working yet so it will be a bit slow for a while. I will be working on the transmission tomorrow hopefully.

 

Hello everyone, I got into the shed and decided to do something that I have kept putting off. Not sure why but one of those jobs that never seemed to be allocated time. The transmission, it only needed a couple of jobs done on it, and they weren't anything hard. First on the list was the dipstick, remember those? Ford decided in its infinite wisdom that they were no longer any value to anyone and so they bunged up the hole and from that moment onwards, we had to remove a plug and fill the transmission with a pump, and when the fluid came out of the bung it was full. I prefer the idea that have a dipstick and I can fill the transmission without climbing under the car, and I can also see how much fluid I need at any given time.



This is in the same place it use to be, just needed to drill out the bung they put there instead. Call me old fashioned, I don't care. I prefer to keep some of the older ideas. The next job on the list was make up a mount for the shift cable to be mounted, I wanted to keep the Jaguar shifter if I could, and it looked pretty straight forward, getting the hole in the right place on the selector arm was the only hurdle that needed to be addressed, I also decided to make it a 3 bolt pattern to secure the cable as I was not a big fam of 2 bolts working like a stuck hinge. I reckon it would be a much better idea with a 3rd bolt to keep it all secure.

 

This is mounted right where the transmission has to be filled and fluid level checked, simple idea and I do like simple things most of the time. I put it down to my prehistoric upbringing, and it is also where we change from Jaguar to Ford.