Car colours are a bit like religion and politics in that they can be intensely personal so perhaps not an area where the advice of others amounts to much.

Having said that, Squadron Blue isn't a colour I would have ordered but it might be one of those colours that could become really easy to live with and like. As it's the original colour, I would be hesitant to change it until you've at least given it a fair chance but it's your car and it has to be something that turns your head every time you park it and walk away.

As for the Kent wheels, they are not my favourite and never have grown on me. I had a spare set that came with one of my '92 VDP's (they both came on Pepperpots) that I mounted Michelin X-Ice on for the winter and could never wait to swap them back.

I think the Series cars - and the coupe in particular - are quite well suited to the wire wheels. I had an '87 black VDP that had wire wheels that set the car off in way that the Kents certainly do not - perhaps a bit too flashy for some but I always thought these aren't cars to be driven by anyone who doesn't enjoy being looked at regardless of colour and wheel choice. I'm not sure if yours are also Daytons, but if they're still round and the spokes still attached I would be inclined to keep them on the car.

I was never a vinyl roof fan although I get Jaguar's reasons for the coupes originally having them. I always felt that if you want to drive a car that looks like a convertible, buy an actual convertible instead of pretending.

 

Is there any coupe that has sold in the last five years that has even come close to the most recent price paid for the blue LS1 coupe on BAT?

 

The car is home and had a bit of time getting acquainted with it. Nice that the VIN match under the hood and in the door jam. Anyone care to decode it? Federal? For California? Hood decal still intact as is whatever Jag used for insulation under the hood.

 

The trunk is solid except for some surface rust caused by the padding holding water. This will be replaced with a closed cell foam that does not retain water.

Am I correct assuming the wires are for the FI pumps that once resided in the trunk?

 

The underside of the car has no obvious signs of any major rust. There is a spot on the passenger's side rear fender lip and some signs that the bottom of the front fenders have been repaired, no surprise there. The rest of the underneath just has surface rust, though I am prepared for any surprises.

The front end will need a complete rebuild including new springs. It will need all new rubber and some blasting and painting. This will be one of the first mini projects.

The exhaust is an abomination, but easily fixed. Everything is new, just need to remove the hideous flex pipe.

 

Some of the exterior.

 

Interior is pretty decent. The headliner is in good condition, needs two sun visors, door panels are OK, but the rears will need regluing. Carpets will be replaced. They are a dark blue as are the door panels.

Question, Were the seats a dark blue originally? The front and back seats are black, but they are not original. All the windows work, gauges work minus the voltmeter, but that could have something to do with the SBC swap. All lights work, wipers function, etc... The ski slope needs redoing, but these are small things.

Need an original radio.

 

I believe the dash may be an overlay. I will have to look into that a bit closer. The odometer shows 62,744 miles and I am inclined to believe it is accurate and not 162,744 based on the overall condition of the car. Even found the original owner's manual in the glove box.

 

Looks like a very nice driver after a bit of work. The voltmeter shouldn't be affected by the swap, it would be the tach that is normally the issue. As for swapping back an original radio, that's going to be tough given the HVAC faceplate has been cut to accommodate the DIN radio. Maybe consider something DIN that looks a bit more period correct. Blaupunkt makes stuff that somewhat looks the part.

Just noticed you have a 280CE. I have an '85 300CD. Nothing like a pillarless coupe.

 

Regarding the wire wheels, they seem to run true, but don't look so nice. I am sure the rust could be cleaned somehow, but I will more than likely be going with the Kents, especially where they were an original option back in 1977.

 

And lastly, the engine. It seems to run strong, no smoke on startup and idles nicely at around 800 rpms. I don't care for all of the "speed" parts. The valve covers will get replaced with plain old steel, period correct looking ones and I am hoping there is room under the hood for an OEM steel air cleaner from the 1970's. The intake manifold will be removed and probably given a coat of black paint as will all the other aluminum accessories. There is a myriad of different style hoses and hose clamps under the hood that will get replaced, wiring rerouted and taped to clean up the engine bay a little. The silver paint on the inner fenders appears to be something like an Eastwood coating. I am not a fan of the silver, but that can wait until the motor is pulled when the car gets repainted.

 

To summarize all my questions I have right now:

- Would the original seats have been blue?
- Can anyone decipher all the numbers on the fender tag?
- Can faded seat belts be dyed?
- Wires in the trunk for the original fuel system?
- What gives with the front turn signals behind the bumper?
- Is the back seat out of a Series 2 sedan the same as the coupes by any chance?

 

My 77 is BRG & Biscuit 52900. You got a great deal at that price ! Mine still has it's 4.2 at what looks like 110 k. Great color. Also like original wheels better. Steering wheel & dash look great, but given rounded edges, I would think overlay, not restoration. Mine needs it & may go with overlay. Restore would have to be a winter project. Check floor under rear seats.
Again, beautiful & a good deal.

 

Thanks to Noah a little more of the car's history is now know. Seems the car was put up for sale on Ebay in May 2011 when it still had the original engine, original spoke wheels, single outside mirror, and original vinyl top. It would be nice to know why the original engine was swapped out with so few miles. What are the odds it is still sitting in the back of someone's garage in Berlin, NH? Slim, but it can't hurt to make a call to the garage that did the swap, if still in business.

XJ6 Data - UH2J53527BW - Jaguar XJ6, XJ12 and Daimler information, articles, photos and register

Ebay add at the time:

Sellers description:
I bought this car locally from a storage lock up and recently we went through the carbs, fuel pumps and battery and she fired up instantly and drives good. The research I have done confirms the mileage and is correct so you have a chance to buy one that's not rusted out with low miles, because of the cars history and solid condition I have no problem, listing her at NO RESERVE she will make good money and deserves to so bid NOW!

Here are the Highlights.

Original engine with no smoke or strange noises
All Matching numbers throughout with actual mile:
Pretty car from any angle
Only painted once
Runs good but it will need a service and final carb set up before a long journey.
Original interior
No Bondo
Been in Florida for years so never seen salt
Stainless exhaust system
Original jack and tools
Power Steering
Real spoke wheels
Power Brakes
Super top
Factory electric windows all work
Factory Squadron blue!
A bunch of books and manuals
Superb original floors with NO RUST!
Superb original Trunk floor
Mint dash and gauges
Perfect headliner
Drives good, but needs a front brake job as they are out of balance.
57,098 miles from new
Cool working air conditioning
Good paint but has the odd bubble and door ding, chip etc, etc
Good Chrome
Superb dash pad
Excellent brakes
Smooth transmission
Newish Tires
Correct oil pressure
New Battery
Clear Title!

 

The more I evaluate the car the more I am leaning towards a mild resto-mod build. Some of the things helping me make the decision are:

- The door cards have warped from moisture and have been screwed in place, so the cards need to be replaced and the covers will have to be redone as well. Originals are dark blue. If redoing I can go with any color and design.

- Front seats are not leather like I first thought, but vinyl and the back seats are leather. So, they will need to be recovered to match. Means I can go with any style and color. I will keep the aftermarket front seats because they are new, comfortable, and not too high to detract from the pillarless design.

- Carpets are worn and will be replaced, so I can go any color I want.

- Door mirrors are not correct so, these too I can replace with any design I choose.

- Motor is not stock and that makes keeping a SBC easy and less costly than swapping in a Jag 4.2 that would get a refresh.

- Wire wheels will be replaced. If I go with the Kents I have they will have to be refinished, so with that cost I could change to another style.

- Body will need to be stripped for a proper repaint, meaning I can go with any color I desire.

Changing the interior and exterior color will allow me to add a personal touch to the car as will different wheels. Maybe a unique door panel design and something unique where I have to recover the seats. I have been searching images for color combos that look good and I like the looks of bright red or dark brown leather interiors. I like a grey exterior. Not black and not white and any hue of BRG seems to be too common. And I already have a TR6 in a green metallic with dark green carpets and tan interior. Maybe a dark grey or dark blue exterior with black accents instead of chrome and a red interior.
The hideous greens Mercedes used back in the 70's are so hideous I actually like them, but not sure that would complement the body lines of the XJ coupe.
Just thinking out loud.

 

I just redid all panels with dye from Classic Dye Products. Perfect match. Applied with 1 inch Foam Brush. Bought 16 oz bottle. Still have 3/4 to do the seats, which for mnow are good. Recommend 1 " brush because it fits the bottle neck. Amazingly easy to apply & dries to a perfect finish.

BTW...Remind you again ! Check under the rear seat. Pull up the rubber pad.

 

May not matter if you're talking restomod.

The S2 has very distinct style. Hard to find & expensive. If you're doing your own thing go newer.

 

My S2 XJC has been registered as a 77 it's whole life even though it's S/N is 52900 built in10/76 and has a 77 Emissions Compliance Placard. I know the registry lists that S/N as a 76, but did Jaguar, like the US, actually build new model years starting in October ?

 

Your panels look nice Excalibur2021. I just went on Classis Dye Products website and didn't see anything for the older Jags. Did you have to call or Email them? I have used SEM ColorCoat on past projects, but their darkest blue isn't as dark as the original interior.

I am leaning towards a dark brown interior with possibly these materials for the seat center sections and door panels with the door panel top caps, door pockets and door pulls accented in black. Dash wood would be a dark walnut burl along with the ski slope. Other surfaces like the center console, lower kick panels would be done in a corresponding dark brown material, either vinyl or leather with vinyl getting the nod for its durability. Carpets in black with a black/dark brown set of Coco Mats.

I would imagine the true leather basket weave as in the first picture will be pretty costly.
The second picture is vinyl and not sure if the print is "too aggressive."
The last picture looks to be more of a wool/cloth weave, and I like that it has hints of black woven into it that would tie in the other black parts of the interior.

The interior is a long way off but going in a totally nonstock direction I want to give it plenty of time to be worked out in my head.

 

I have checked the floors and though there is some surface rust it doesn't appear there is any rot. I will get a good look at them when the car gets a repaint. In the short term I will remove the seats and give the floor a good wire brushing and then a coat of POR15.

With past projects I have replaced all of the carpet underfelt with closed cell foam. Unlike the stock padding closed cell foam will not absorb and hold water/moisture. I also like to add these floor grommets as used by Mercedes. They allow water and moisture to escape, but don't let water in. I like to add them in each floor space. Just need to drill a 1 1/8" hole.

After the repaint all the door, windshield, and trunk seals will be replaced to better keep water from intruding.