Measuring the clearances and correcting incorrect clearances are obviously two different things.

The shim method or adjusting clearances, which actually requires removal of the cam and tappets, can be quite arduous. Check clearance, disassemble, measure existing shim, calculate thickness needed for new shims, source new shims, install, reassemble, recheck clearances. Hopefully all's well. If not, repeat as needed! Gah !

Jaguar gives a *range* of acceptable clearance and most owners are tickled pink to just get every valve within that range. Getting each valve to a single go/no go spec would require a LOT of dedication

Cheers
DD

 

You got it. I built an excel spreadsheet that took into consideration current shim thickness and clearances for each valve and spit out what shims I need. I had some spare ones that I could use. I can get away by sourcing 6 sizes I do not have. I am thinking, if I have done this correctly, it will be done just once and be done.

 

It's definitely requires more work but it stays in spec a lot longer than other type of valve adjustment systems.

So maybe less work overall, depending on how long you keep the car.

 

It will be willed to one of the kids, I am sure... that's how long I am keeping it.

 

A hydraulic press and some jigs and this job becomes easy





Arrow points to the bearing to be replaced





Idler sprocket and the new bearing. The old bearing has some scars on it





Le jigs





Harbor freight hydraulic press. Just get the right sized socket and below a receiver





Old bearing out





Old vs. new bearing





In goes the new bearing





Just about done!





Voila!

 

Those press plates look Very familiar....
These things are so easy when one has the proper tools.
Your tutorial is Excellent!
(';')

 

So the eccentric shaft won't fit in the sprocket with the new bushing in. Not quite sure why that is. This happened with the intermediate timing chain sprocket bushing as well and had to re-install the old bushing. It was not nearly as bad as the idler sprocket bushing... I do not want to install the old one since it is pretty well scored..... any ideas?

 

What if you got a small brake cylinder hone (with new flat stones) and worked on it for a while until you got the clearance you want?
(';')

 

You got something there. I have been working it by hand with 220, 400 and 500 grit sandpaper but nothing's happening. I need to clear 0.2mm.

 

I am questioning myself whether my attempt to replace the bushings/bearings on those sprockets was the right decision. I took LnrB's suggestion to hone the burshing down but even after about 45 minutes on the drill, the progress is minuscule. I am thinking of putting the old bearing back but that would just suck. I need an additional 0.016mm of bearing material to go away! The good thing is that the material is brass.

Unfortunately this conundrum would have to be resolved before I can proceed further. A weekend's worth of progress is in jeopardy!

 

Doubtless you have more experience at this than I do, but hone stones are meant for iron or steel. Brass plugs them, doesn't it? Are the stones loading up? Wouldn't you need Lots of cutting oil in that case to 'float' the brass and grit away and clear the stones?

Even at this rate you're half way there. In my world this isn't bad!

Whenever I had to take pits out of a brake cylinder it seemed like it took an Age with positively "Gallons" of brake fluid as a cutting lubricant.

Maybe another 45 minutes will do it.
EDIT: Nice Mics!
(';')

 

Elinor beat me with the hone idea. Fresh emery paper, not sand paper, and as Elinor suggests, lots of cutting oil.


Or, as a machinist with more tools than most of us, ream a bit, and finish with a hone.


A lathe or even a drill press can be set up to make it a tad easier...


HF might even have some reamers to fit....


Carl

 

Alternatively, when I first came to this part of the world, one of my neighbors was an Experienced machinist and an SCCA racer. He had in his Considerable collection of tools, what he called a Bearing Scraper; a 3-cornered file from which he had ground all the teeth so that it was now little more than a Very Sharp dagger.

He used it as the name implies, to *scrape* small amounts of unwanted material from the inside of bearings. However, it took a steady hand, a good eye, and probably Years of experience.

I saw him fit cam bearings with it.
He took championship in his class that year.
(';')

 

Yes!!!


That is the old tech way. My ancient Dyke's Automobile Encyclopedia.


And, yes, that was the way cam bearings were fitted on the
Fabulous Hudson Hornet 308 CI engines.


Decades back, an old Hudson mechanic had a shop in the same complex as my son. Did old Hudsons and Packards. Even a Duesenberg at one time. His Dual H powered coupe was a beauty.


Carl

 

I had the bushing on the drill press trying to resize it for at least 8 hours. I made progress, for sure, but it is not there. For the amount of time spent, this is NOT the way to go about it. Do not have the right toolage I guess. I have to go to plan B (which does not exist currently)

I used emery cloth paper of various grids, going all the way down to 50 grit! Now, the bushing may eventually get ruined but, thank god, it is readily accessible from SNG Barratt, and it is only slightly over $5.00. Not a huge loss.





I used all kinds of emery cloth and sandpaper





Wrap the paper inside the bushing





Fit the hone onto your press drill and make the necessary adjustments





Go!

 

Got the new shims from SNG Barratt yesterday and between those and my stash I was able to shim the clearances close enough except 1 valve. It looked like it was a micrometer issue / writing the wrong value down in the spreadsheet.

The clearances are now:

-------Exhaust ------- Intake
#1 --- 0.014 --------- 0.012
#2 --- 0.013 --------- 0.014
#3 --- 0.014 --------- 0.012
#4 --- 0.013 --------- 0.013
#5 --- 0.013 --------- 0.013
#6 --- 0.011 --------- 0.009







Next episode: Refurbishing intake manifold

 

WOW! How frustrating for you to have a "mere" bushing resize take so long! That must be One Hard Bushing! Once you get it sized it should last Forever!
(';')

 

Since I removed the intake manifold last year, I put it on the shelf and let it sit there. Yesterday and today I disassembled it, cleaned and sand-blasted it getting it ready for paint and reassembly.

I had a question on the two hoses that are hooked up on that manifold. I cannot find them in the parts manual and they have to be replaced. Have a look at the pictures. Any ideas out there??





Pulled it off the shelf. Ready for dis-assembly and cleaning











After being cleaned and sandblasted





After being cleaned and sandblasted

 

How about a close to sized sanding barrel roll on a drill or drill press? It would remove material fairly quick then switch back to your hone to smooth and true it back up. I bought a set of 3 different sizes at my local home improvement store around $10.
Drum Sanding Sleeves Archives - Gator Finishing

 

On your formed hoses=see if your local parts store will let you behind the counter to match yours up. My local has a ton of the small preformed hoses hanging on the wall. I had to buy a long one but it had the correct section I needed so I just cut it out.