Question one: Speedometer works but odometer dosen't??
Question two: Back up lights don't work.. Bulbs and wiring are fine, but not light up, Reverse switch??

 

That's gotta be an internal fault in the speedometer. Never fixed one so I can't reliably advise...probably a little gear or something broken?




This might help
Adjusting Backup Lamp Switch, Series III XJ6

If no help, post back.

Be aware that earlier Ser IIIs...perhaps yours....have the reverse light switch in the console rather than on the side of the transmission as described in the linked article. I think the breakpoint for the change was about '82, actually, but I can't remember for sure.

Cheers
DD

Cheers
DD

 

The speedo is very easily removed, you just press on the rim and turn, but I'm not sure if its clockwise or anticlockwise. You can then either put another good one on, or get the existing one checked out. You might have to mail it to a repair shop, these things are not a common item for repair.

 

you turn it left, or counter-clockwise, as you push it back by the black frame edges, do not push on the glass or you'll crack it. Must be the main plastic gear which broke, a little patience and if you're handy, dismantle it until you figure it.

in my '84, the Reverse Light Switch adjustment is an adjustable roller switch at the front and right of the shifter. You need a 4.5mm socket to loosen the two tiny bolts which keep it in place. Once you loosen the switch, you turn the ignition switch to ON, you put the shifter in reverse, and have someone looking in the rear of the car as you move the switch up or down until the reverse lights come ON. (or park the car against a wall in a dark garage and look through the rear view mirrors until you see the lights come ON). Then you tighten the switch back and test, and retest. Might take a few tries to get it to the "sweet point".

the switch looks like this:

 

Will have to pull the speedo and take a look at it.. Do you know where I can get parts for it if I find it's that wheel, or know who fixes them?? Only has 68K original miles on it so I'd like to keep it working.. I have to pull the center console anyway, need to replace the shifter light, (not working).. and find the relay for the seat height motor..
Also another question... The tank selector switch works on the right tank but not the left.. Have grounded out the float, but switch doesn't move.. Think it's bad tank float.. But the real question is that when I put the switch on the left tank, the left return line is running and there is a drizzle of gas coming out the right return line.. when the right tank is used, right return line is running and nothing going to the left tank.. Is this a right return valve not working??

 

any gauge repair shop should be able to fix it, but you should try to fix it yourself. Also you can get a used replacement gauge cheaper than paying someone $125.00+ to repair yours.
If there is a broken plastic gear, you can super glue it. LOCTITE now has an Automotive Super Glue that is simply fantastic. I buy it at Dollar General. And if it's not a broken plastic piece, maybe it's just a spring that popped off. I repaired the TACH in my 1965 S type and it was a piece of cake to fix once I figured out what the problem was. I was quoted $250.00 to fix a non-working tachometer and I thought, "I can find a working tach for $75.00", so I had nothing to lose and opened up mine, cost me nothing but a few hours of playing with it.

there's no "relay" for the seat motor, there is an inline fuse and wire which runs by the left (driver's) side of the console, you might run your hand under the side of the console to find it it. (Pink wire with a white stripe, or is it a White wire with a pink stripe??) A non-working seat motor is usually the fuse, rarely a bad motor, or the wires at the seat's switch may have become disconnected. You can remove the seat cushion by removing the screw and bracket at the front of the seat cushion, then just raise and pull the seat out. The seat's switch is connected to a two-wire plug under the seat. Easy to do.

these cars are very simple to repair.

don't understand what you mean by "switch doesn't move". Is it stuck in place? does it not stay in when you push it? then the switch is bad.

order a Shop Manual CD, you need it. Dismantling the console is serious business, don't rely on memory. Label everything as it is removed. Not just what goes where, but how it goes where. Take pictures, video, whatever to help you remember how something was before you took it apart. The center console is also attached to the black-vinyl vertical center piece, and the wires are routed in such a way behind some tight brackets that it is very easy to cause damage to wires and plugs. Best thing to do is to first remove the front seats from the car. Also disconnecting the rear console's round air vent is not easy.

 

Getting the fuel supply system working correctly can be a PITA, I know, because I also had trouble with my Series 3. Basically the fuel should be going back to the supply tank as selected by the switch. SO if you're using the right tank, fuel should be returned to the right hand tank. Nothing should be going to the left tank, so from your text this side is working correctly. However, if your left tank selection is causing fuel to flow back to the right-hand tank, something is wrong. There are two valves controlling this, when one opens the other should close. Usually one of the valves has failed. One is power-on = closed and the other is power-on = open. The two types are handed so they can't be put back on the wrong side.

What do you mean by "Have grounded out the float, but switch doesn't move." ? Don't you mean the fuel gauge doesn't move ?

 

OOps... Lets re word it.. lol.. When the tank selector switch is out for the right tank, the fuel Gage will read what is in that tank.. When it is pushed in for the left tank I have no reading on the fuel Gage.. I read some where here that if you ground out the main line off the sending unit that the Gage should read full. Have tried this, and Gage doesn't move. Thought about jumping from the right sending unit to the left side just to double check that it doesn't read.. The other thing is that when the left tank is selected I have a flow of gas coming back from the return line. But also have gas slowly coming from the return line on the right tank.. So is the which tank selector switch is not working??

 

just a guess, but it sounds like: a bad Return Valve on the left tank or a bad sender on the left tank, and even that is not definite, could be a bad gauge, a bad switch. You need a Service Manual.

WARNING: if you had a Jaguar Factory Shop Manual, you would know the warning about de-pressurizing the fuel system anytime you are going to open up the fuel system to atmosphere, in this case, removing a return valve, gas tank Sender/Float or even changing the fuel filter. The XJ-6 Series 3 Fuel System is under pressure.

And if you are going to replace a gauge or a switch, the warning about disconnecting the battery.

to de-pressurize the fuel system, you need the Factory Shop Manual, I would not go any further until you follow the manual's procedures. Some people just think "to heck with the Service Manual", then you see them in forums trying to get help to fix problems they didn't have before they messed with the fuel system without following servicing procedures. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time. Sorry if this sounds like a sermon, but I learned to care for my XJ from a Jaguar trained technician who always insisted I read the Manual's servicing procedures before grabbing any tools, so I try to return the favor.

 

Thanks.. I hear you there. Just getting steered in the right direction here.. I have the service and the parts manual.. Just didn't want to take off on it like a bull in a china shop if you know what I mean.. I have gotten lots of info from this site to help.. Thanks again..

 

Here's some info on checking/diagnosing fuel changeover problems

Fuel Tank Switchover Checklist, Series III XJ6

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks.. I hadn't come across that bit of info before.. Will be doing that this weekend.. Also the left tank seems to build up a lot more pressure in it than the right side.. Thinking it might have a fouled vent line from it.. Want to drop the tanks and coat then inside and out, but think this will be done next year.. Oh, yeah... I have seen some where on this info highway there is a guy that rebuilds the AM/FM/Cassette stereos.. But I didn't jot down the address or save the web site.. bummer.. This one doesn't have a tuning knob.. Has the fade, volume controls on the left side and all the other buttons are of the push type.. Would it be worth fixing this one up or replace it with a newer version??

 

So, the LH return valve is opening correctly and allowing fuel back to the tank. but a dribble is also coming back to the RH tank. This tells me that the RH valve is leaking fuel whilst closed, so needs to be replaced as it looks like the seal has gone.

 

Have a new right return valve on order.. The jag is in the shop getting new control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and bushings.. Transmission filter changed along with fluid, oil change, new belts and tires.. A good start to the road of recovery... lol.. The back up light switch is on the tranny, so will get that adjusted when it's on the lift.. Again, it looks like no two cars are the same.. Picked up a new stereo, but I'm going to have to make a bracket to fit the unit in.. Speakers will be changed out also..

 

just mount the new stereo over the a/c panel, instead of behind it, a DIN style stereo will work, you might have to get a used 1986 a/c panel which has the square DIN opening already cut. This is like brain surgery, very delicate work. Also I would get a set of new connecting plugs & pins for the new stereo harness, (Radio Shack), and leave the existing factory plugs and harness untouched. (you can use the plugs from the old radio but you need new pins). What is the problem with the old radio?

 

Most of the push buttons do not work and a couple of lights of the LED work.. Radio stations are a hit or miss setting.. Cassette does not work at all.. An 86 face plate? Will have to look into that one.. Thanks.. Will post pictures later.. Waiting for the jag to come back from the shop.. Thinking I should have listed this post as an "84 VDP Restoration" instead of "Two questions".. lol

 

or "I only have one thousand and one questions and these are the first 50..." haaa!

 

I hear you on that one, Jose.. New Kenwood radio is in with minor modifications to the face plate.. New KYB shocks on the front, Ones for the rear ready to be installed. Minor things needing attention, tho.. Some of the dash lights need replacing, sending unit from the left tank needs replacing.. But all in all, running sweet.. runs smooth.. Love this car..

 

1984 was a good year for the XJ-6, they are quite reliable. What you might have is a car built in 1983 for sale in the 1984 Model Year. if you look at the driver's door label it will tell you the Build Date.

you might replace all the dash light bulbs, the shifter light bulb, the Opticell light bulb, (the last two are under the shifter panel in the center console). Also the glove box light only comes on when the parking lights are on, (headlights switch in any of the ON positions). To replace the glovebox bulb, press the center sides of the lens (gently) to remove it and access the bulb. The Map light is below the front center roll of the dash cover. The B pillar lenses are removed the same way as the glovebox lens.

NOTE: do not replace the Opticell light bulb with a higher watt bulb or you will melt the Opticell).

TIPS:
if your tail light Lens Seals are deteriorated or non-existent, (originally made of foam which desintegrates), replace with the rubber seal string used in house window screens to secure the screen to the frame. (get it at Home Depot). It does a better job of sealing and does not deteriorate. Available in grey or black.

if you need foam gaskets for the Sidelights, cut your own from the Foam Pads used behind house light On-Off wall switch plates. (also HomeDepot).

As you can see, HomeDepot is an auto parts store and they don't know it, but don't tell them either!!

 

The sticker on the door says January of 1984. I have replaced the shifter light, the opticell light I haven't touched yet. Where do you find a led light for it?? Way brighter with out the heat.. lol, the glove box light I did find out that it only comes on with the lights.. But only after countless hours of cleaning contacts, tracing wire leads, and lots of bad words... then one night I opened it to get some thing out of the glove box and found out I now had a light.. Got the rear shocks replaced with KYBs'.. Now riding so smooth now.. Replaced with the same in the front.. Put on new brake shoes on the rear, lost one of the pads. Going to replace the rotors next.. Jag dealer here says it will take 10 hours to do?? Thinking about doing this one myself.. Also need to do the sun roof gasket too...