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I will soon be undertaking to do the front suspension on my 1984 XJ6 4.2 Vanden Plas (US Model). I have the manual and I have read the threads here on this work. I find the information a bit sparse to be honest. But that's what threads are for.
So my plan is to take the whole front suspension assembly out in order to change out all the bushings, sleeves, ball joints etc. What I would like to get is a running list of tips from people who've done this work. Some things I already know about.
Removing the springs. I have seen videos on both methods. I haven't decided on one yet. I would like to use the official Jaguar tool if anyone has one I will rent it from you (I'll pay shipping) for a reasonable price. I live in the US, but I've seen them for sale in the UK for 160 pounds and in the US for $530.00. I could also use the 4 threaded rods method. In any case there are some questions I have off the bat:
1) How high does this car need to be on jackstands to get this assembly out?
2) There's mention of using a press or mandril and press for certain parts. I don't have access to a machine shop, but do have a heavy iron vice. Are there any assemblies that NEED a machine shop or industrial machines?
3) I plan on taking the calipers off and hanging them before removing the suspension. What other parts can be removed before removing the suspension assembly ( to reduce weight)?
4) Is it better to take the springs off before the rest of the suspension or afterwards?
5) Is it correct that the steering rack needs to come out too?
6) Has anyone tried this Jaguar XJS, XJ6, XKE and XJ12 Suspension Kit Upgrades from V12 Performance kit to improve roll?
Any other tips and advice would be appreciated. I finished my engine work and once I get this suspension squared away I can register it and drive it.
I reckon you are making it hard for yourself. To remove the suspension as a unit, either the engine has to come out, or you need the brace bar which holds the engine up from the top. I don't know anyone who has done it this way. I have removed the engine, then removed the entire suspension, its a bit awkward at the end when the suspension eventually drops - like driving an out of control shopping trolley. Now that was 30 years ago!. I am again doing my front suspension and this time have just pulled out each side separately. Very easy, no special tools needed aside from a 3/4" threaded rod + 2 nuts from you local hardware store. This will easily compress the springs for removal. Then just remove each wishbone. The only parts you cannot change easily are the cross member mounts, and with a garage crane, you could probably do this easily after just taking the weight of the engine.
You can leave the steering rack in this way, but you should take the opportunity to replace the bushes, so why not remove it?
Also you may need to look at removing the brake calipers and stripping them to examine the pistons. After 34 years they might be corroded. This is also straight forward.
I’ve rebuilt the entire front suspension in both series 1 and 3, so I’ll try to answer your questions based on my experience.
To remove the springs I used the 4 threaded rods method and it worked just fine for me. Just make sure to use the largest diameter rod you can fit, as it is easier to overcome the spring force. Make sure you are safe, think twice before you start any action!
1)if you take the wheels off, regular jackstands will be just fine. I dropped the subframe on rollers which made it lower to the ground and helped to get the entire assembly out.
2) I used a machine press to get the bushings in. It makes the job much easier and gives more control. Especially the lower wishbone bushing. You can damage the bushing if you do the job recklessly. I suppose it is doable using just the vice, however most mechanics offer to install the bushings for a reasonable price and that’s an option to consider.
3)I never removed the calipers. I removed the entire suspension by myself without any help, so I guess removing calipers wouldn’t make any difference. At least for me.
If you plan on removing the suspension with the calipers just make sure to disconnect the rubber brake line.
If you want to reduce the weight you can remove the rotors also and the steering rack.
4)The access is limited, so I suggest removing them while having the assembly off the car
5)no, it is mounted to the crossmember, it will come out with the entire assembly, you just need to remove the steering shaft that goes to the steering wheel, and disconnect the power steering hoses ( for me it was easier to do that at the pump)
6) no experience in this field
Apart from that, you just need to unscrew the engine from its mounts and support the weight of the engine on a beam across the engine bay.
Anyway, that’s my view, I guess others here might have diffrent experience.
Good luck!
This is what I made to remove the springs on my 1966 ‘S’ and S11 3/4” threaded rod, I used a roll pin at the top but somebody felt that that was insufficient and changed it for a nut and bolt.
Robman,
I cannot work out why your compressor is so fancy. The one I made is just an 18" 3/4 threaded rod with two nuts, and a piece of hardwood with a 3/4 hole. The wood goes at the bottom to spread the weight. I turn the nut with a spanner - will post a pic tomorrow.
I do know that when replacing the spring, having some lengths of 5/16 rod to guide the pan up does help a lot.
Robman,
I cannot work out why your compressor is so fancy. The one I made is just an 18" 3/4 threaded rod with two nuts, and a piece of hardwood with a 3/4 hole. The wood goes at the bottom to spread the weight. I turn the nut with a spanner - will post a pic tomorrow.
I do know that when replacing the spring, having some lengths of 5/16 rod to guide the pan up does help a lot.
I suppose because I could Yes I could have left the ears off and just made the bottom plate just be flat.
All I can suggest is to search the archives here. Elinor and husband redid the suspension on her NIX. Execution flawless. Narrative and illustrations as a great tutorial.
I did an advance search for LnRB and Suspension and found a bunch of threads where she talks about doing the work but not much useful narrative and illustrations about what she did in what order. Don't know what LnRB's husband's handle is. Do you know of the thread your thinking of? Even some keywords.
Here is the tool I made for under $25.00. The tapered piece to the right fits under the spring pan to keep the 3/4 inch threaded rod straight., The tapered piece is an old bearing race that I cut to the proper angle. It goes above the long nut together with a couple of washers. The bolt to the left side fits into a notch in the susp. cradle above the spring.
The smaller rods screw into the lower suspension arm to guide the spring pan down. PIC shows 3 of 4.
I used a ratcheting wrench to do the job.
Thanks Sanchez. I have seen on the internet any number of these homemade tools all which look do-able, except that I do not know how to weld, don't have any old bearing races (I don't even know what that is), don't know the difference between a high strength rod and a regular one, wouldn't be confident that I could get that hole in the rod right and so forth. I do know that taking these springs out is dangerous and it isn't something I want to bodge. As Clint Eastwood says, "A Man's go to know his limitations".
I'm a hobby mechanic and I don't have training in machining. So I either have to get the right tool or figure out another safe way. I'll do it, but it may take me some time to figure it out.
It's yours if you want. Just pay shipping costs. I can always make me a new one if need be.
I can give you a written tutorial with pics on how to install the tool for spring removal and installation.
Maybe I'll just post it on the forum.
Thanks! I'll take you up on that! I'll PM you tomorrow and we can make arrangements. I'd love the written tutorial as well. I've seen how these work and I think I understand how to do it, but I never say no to an extra set of directions.
Personally, I've found the 'four threaded rods' method much easier to work with. Plus, no welding/fabrication. Just the rods, nuts, and washers....all easily stowed in a small drawer until next time!
So my plan is to take the whole front suspension assembly out in order to change out all the bushings, sleeves, ball joints etc.
As you wish, but it isn't necessary.
2) There's mention of using a press or mandril and press for certain parts
Only the lower control arm bushings
. I don't have access to a machine shop, but do have a heavy iron vice. Are there any assemblies that NEED a machine shop or industrial machines?
A vice would probably work. But most any car repair (and certainly suspension repair) shop in your local will have a press. It doesn't have to be a machine shop, specifically.
5) Is it correct that the steering rack needs to come out too?
In my experience the rack simply needs to be dismounted, not removed, so it can drop down a couple inches.
Since we are emphasizing safety here, I'll chime in. The threaded rods you guys are using are fine, but then you've drilled a hole through them effectively removing that diameter of material from its strength. If that's a Ø3/8" hole through a Ø3/4" rod, you've now made that rod half as strong. Per engineering standards, not good. Utilizing a perpendicular bolt now makes the shear strength of the bolt the second "weak link", as opposed to the tension strength of a Ø3/4" rod. No, I'm not an engineer and am not going to be able to give you the actual shear strength of that bolt, or the tension that the now weakened rod can withstand, but just stating that per engineering standards the "tool" is now compromised. I'd also be skeptical of the longevity of a wooden block under this tension, albeit for the short amount of time it is used.
From my similar experience:
I have an oversized machined nut with integral washer on top with a normal nut as a jamb. To me, this is CRITICAL. When you're lowering the spring/perch, the top nut could also turn and allow the compression of the spring to rocket free and use your head as a backboard. Yes, it is a bit of a PITA to get those nuts installed, but not as big of a pain in the head you'd have if it came undone.
Bottom side: a 1/2" thick flatbar drilled large enough to allow the rod freedom-you don't want it to bind. The bar acts to level the load. Very valuable when reinstalling.
I had to lower mine 5.25" before all weight was off. Stock configuration with 4 of the 1/8" nylon washers.
Front view on install. I tried it using two Ø3/8" guide rods & with four. Two was adequate; four "felt" better. Start with the outer two bolts and work your way in.
View from under the rotor. I didn't have a 1-1/16" gear wrench, so I had to use a normal box wrench, which was time consuming.
The guide rods I made out of hot rolled Ø3/8 steel by simply running a 24unf die for about an inch. My threaded rod is Ø5/8"-11UNC. It may be longer than required, but I use it with "clampers" for removing springs from other manufacturers. Keep the threaded rod well lubricated, as others have warned.
Last edited by moronthethrottle; 07-17-2018 at 01:37 PM.
07-15-2018, 02:40 PM
Advice/Tips on Front Suspension Work
Yes I could have left the ears off and just made the bottom plate just be flat.
