I have a 1982 xj6 series 3 and want to attempt my own band adjustment. I was wondering if anyone could help me with first where to locate the front and rear bands, and secondly how to tighten and loosen them, thanks alot

 

Borg Warner 66 Transmission Adjustment

 

I found that link above a few weeks ago when i lost all reverse, very easy to do except i couldnt find a socket to suit so did a bodgy by feel with the torque wrench in the vice as a bench mark, worked very well

 

It's very easy! A socket works to loosen the big nut, although if all you have is a short socket(like me) then you have to put it on first then put your extension or rachet in and it wont go all the way in but it still does what you need it to. If I remember right it a 19 or 20 and the little one you need a wrench 5/16 or 8mm.
I did a thread a couple months ago in detail, I think it was titled "band adjustment"
good luck.

 

how did you tighten the lock nut while holding he adjusting head?

 

I didn't need to. Before i started anything, I scratched the oil so there was a mark on it, looked at it when i got into place, tightened the nut and it had not moved. Even when I rebuilt the trans a month or so ago on the bench and it worked that same way. it simply didn't move.

 

Hi all, sounds like a interesting procedure. I'm wondering if it would help my delayed change and loud clunking when swapping between drive and reverse. I cant remember if it does it on one and two though.

Could band adjustment fix this? If not what symptoms will the trans have if it needs a band adjustment?

I have also read somewhere about adjusting the gear selector cable to stop clunking when selecting gears. Does anyone know anything about this?

Gears change smooth whilst driving though so no problems there.

 

It's a very simple and easy procedure. I don't think it will help with hard shifts, if that is what you are describing. I used it to help a grinding that was happening when my trans was going out. it helped delay the rebuild for about a month if I remember my time correctly. I don't think it will do much hard shifts or slipping, but it won't hurt to try. you'll know in a couple blocks if it made a difference and can easily put it back where it was if you mark it before you start and don't put the inspection plate back on untill you've tested it.

 

Like Harry here I have the same issue with a clunking b/w D and R.

It clunks worst when shutting the car down and so going up the selector to P.
Can I add to his shout for anyone's experience with moderating the rough shift?

Like Harry also, my gears (BW 12) are really smooth when the car is actually moving. Thanks!

 

Ah it's good to know that it's not just me. I've done a lot of looking around for a fix for this but haven't been able to find anything.

The shift cable peaked my interest when I realised that it might be too loose or tight and not completely pulling the trans into place so it's clunking in. Now I know very little about trans and even less about the BW12 so I might be on the wrong track.

 

That really sounds like u-joints! My normal test for u-joints are the forward reverse test like you just described.

 

Thank you, amaezing.

I am looking in my manuals and are the suspect u-joints likely those which are part of the propeller shaft?

I had the diff and rear brakes/suspension re-built last year so I'm hoping it's not the u joints connected with the rear drive which are most likely.

Just looking for some pointers on how to get started seeking out the culprit.

Update: started this note and just thought to pop out for a drive to get some more data points and noticed when shifted the car a small but still significant leak of tranny fluid under the car. Never seen such a leak in the past.

Does this help in identifying likely culprit? I have a bunch of paper under car now and hope to be able to get a bead on the leak that way tomorrow morning when more of it is likely settled on the floor.

Thanks!

 

From your information, youngsters get lucky and it the one right at the transmission, and you will need to replace the trans seal also, since it's trashed now. I would jack the back of the car up enough you can get under it. Put stands under it so you don't get crushed. And start wiggling the driveline while you look at the joints. If the joints have any movement at all then it's bad. By movement I mean lateral or side to side. As you turn it, go left right looking into the joint. Look at all of them. Don't just stop at one, there could be others. The axle ones aren't as easy. The joints closest to the diff you can see in this way, but the ones at the wheels you can't see cause of the cover that's part of the suspension. It's s job to inspect those two.

 

Thanks for the advice! I have another symptom which I haven't tracked down yet, maybe it has something to do with the UJs, it's takes about 5 minutes to start happening but I get some knocking from the rear of the car. I assumed the diff, but I guess it could be to do with bad UJs? What do you reckon.

The knocking is steady and doesn't seem to change too much with speed, it certainly doesn't go twice as fast at 100kmh compared to 50.

 

I'm drawing a blank right now. But if it is a uj and it snaps at that speed. There will be more damage

 

I think we need a little more info/description as to what's happening.

 

"From your information, youngsters get lucky and it the one right at the transmission, and you will need to replace the trans seal also, since it's trashed now.

Amaezing: you are super helpful on this stuff. Can I just make sure I understand you right. The trans seal you mention is the rear oil seal that links up with the propeller shaft?

You think it got trashed b/c one or more of the u-joints are bad: that makes sense to me.

I have a mate joining me Thursday and with loads of caution we'll raise the car and have a good look about.

Harry: I don't have the other symptom you mention and when I did the diff overhaul it was b/c the seal there was shot at and the brakes needed replacing. Like you, it's always a relief when someone else on here reports the same issues. I don't then feel my car is persecuting me for some odd reason.

 

Your correct. The oil seal at the back of the tranny that links up with the shaft. After you drop the shaft. The piece I call the input shaft will come out of the trans and make that seal way easy to get to and get out.

 

The seal an output shaft seal not an input. The local crap store should have one really cheap, like 5 bucks

 

Understood. Huge thanks, Amaezing. Will report back on how it goes.

Tomorrow I look around, do the lateral movement test you mentioned, size up that seal, and then get some parts.

More soon.

Thanks again for your help with this.