Hello All, I have fitted an S3 Engine and matching BW66 Auto Transmission and have it all running well on the S1 Carb setup from the original Engine.

The problem I have is the synchronisation of the throttle position with the Transmission for kick down and down shift. On the original transmission it was electrically by the microswitch on the Throttle Linkage, but on the BW66 it is mechanically via cable actuation.

Today while at the All British Car Day in Sydney, I was having a good look at an S2 XJ6-C and noticed that the S2 setup uses Carbs and a cable actuated kick down/down system via the Throttle Linkage.

I am thinking that I should be able to use the S2 Throttle Linkage on my S1 in order to use the BW66 kick down/down shift cable. Can anyone see any flaws in this plan?

Woz

 

Sounds plausible to me although attachment and 'throw' of the actuation must be worked out, obviously

One thing, though.....

On A BW66 that cable is not simply a kickdown cable. It actually controls the transmission pressures and shifts. If it is not adjusted properly it is quite possible for transmission damage to occur. You'll need a transmission pressure gauge. The procedure is in the ROM.

Cheers
DD

 

I think this thread answers to some extent, but I too have heard that damage can occur if adjustment is out.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...to-xj6-113442/

I think the throw on the S2 is sorted, it will then just need the std setup adjustment.

 

Yeah, inadequate band pressure, they slip and wear very rapidly. there is little material on them.


Too much and you are goi9ng out the windscreen and who knows what hoors will take place in the BW's guts !!!


Carl

 

Can someone explain the shift/Kickdown cable adjustment to me please? The Haynes manual states that there must be at least 0.15" between the crimp stop and the end face of the threaded cable adjuster. Can someone clarify?

 

My Jaguar manual is slightly different. It shows a small ferrule crimped on the inner cable. The distance between the ferrule and the end of the outer cable (where the threads are) should be .020-.030"

With the cable attached to the throttle mechanism the inner cable will stationary while turning the adjuster nut moves the outer cable (the part with the threaded end) relative to the stationary inner cable. Thus the .020-.030" gap can be achieved.

This is not a substitute for the proper pressure check....but should be close enough to prevent damage, I reckon

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug, so with the throttle fully closed the rear of the ferrule stop should be 'just' clear of the end face of the threaded adjuster.

I completely take onboard your point about a proper adjustment.

 

can anybody tell me the length of inner cable above the ferule, mine is not crimped and I would like a starting point?

 

Ok, I thought I'd respond post throttle linkage fitment. I adjusted the cable as described above and the car seems to be changing gear just fine. I haven't driven the car much yet, but my initial test drive was good.

I will change the transmission fluid and recheck with the sump cover off in the near future.

I do have to admit that the linkage that was already fitted to the car did have a cable bracket, I just couldn't see it as it was being masked by the cooling hose coming off the back of the inlet manifold! Oops.

 

I did the same to my car - a SIII engine and BW66 into a SI.

My speedo is reading some 35% high - how did you tackle this issue with yours? Is there a gearset or an adjustment that I can make somewhere?

 

The BW66 gear ratio(s) more than likely are very different than the stock S1 trans. I could not easily find information about the trans as I have no S3 service manuals and the web was lacking probably due to my poor search.

I had the same problem with my 200R trans.. changing the trans speedo gear to get close to the 2:88's I had installed was easy. But the odometer was still off too much for my liking.

I ended up taking a S3 mechanical speedo and odometer apart and using the pieces in the my S1 speedo.. fun job.. not expensive as the speedos have little value. Now close to <3% accurate or the amount most mechanical speedos end up working at in real life.

They use TPM (Turns per mile) and the S1 used different heads for the rear end ratio used in the car... the 2:88 ratio was never available in a S1... but is mostly standard in a S3.

 

Like Roger has said, I was thinking of taking the mechanism out of the S3 Speedo and trying to fit it to my S1 Speedo. Didn't know if it would be possible, but was going to give it crack anyway.

At the moment mine is reading about 10% high. I read 110 km/h when the car is actually traveling at 100 km/h. Not to bad in the grand scheme of things.