Cam cover gasket
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 175
Likes: 4
From: Toronto
Cam cover gasket
Now that the transmission oil pan leak is fixed I thought I would tackle the oil leaking from the passenger side cam cover. A few questions.
1) do I need to drain the oil completely or is leaving the car sitting for 12 hours sufficient?
2) I keep reading about a typical “oil line” in that area that is prone to leaking towards the back of the engine
any ideas what and where this is and how to fix it. It could be the oil is coming from there.
Many thx.
1979 xJ6L series II
1) do I need to drain the oil completely or is leaving the car sitting for 12 hours sufficient?
2) I keep reading about a typical “oil line” in that area that is prone to leaking towards the back of the engine
any ideas what and where this is and how to fix it. It could be the oil is coming from there.
Many thx.
1979 xJ6L series II
Veteran Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6,796
Likes: 2,403
From: Walnut Creek, California
I can address the first. But, only genericly. I have not ever removed a cam cover. many a valve cover, though!!!
There will be a bit of residual oil in the cam valley. But, after 12 hours, most will be gone back to the sump. A little mess, likely.
Then, the surface on the head must be clean and smooth. Check the cover for "flatness". Place it on a flat surface. No rockig is best, but a tad might be OK.
Now the openings for the fasteners. Flat? If not, use a mild file to dress them. As it is an alloy part.
Apply sealer only to the cover and then apply the gasket. No sealer on the head. Let it set a bit. A good gasket could go on dry, but the sealer in this manner keeps the gasket in place while fitting it back.
If removal is ever needed, it will be far easier.
I think the fitting you refer to are of the banjo type. I'll defer to others to comment there.
Carl
There will be a bit of residual oil in the cam valley. But, after 12 hours, most will be gone back to the sump. A little mess, likely.
Then, the surface on the head must be clean and smooth. Check the cover for "flatness". Place it on a flat surface. No rockig is best, but a tad might be OK.
Now the openings for the fasteners. Flat? If not, use a mild file to dress them. As it is an alloy part.
Apply sealer only to the cover and then apply the gasket. No sealer on the head. Let it set a bit. A good gasket could go on dry, but the sealer in this manner keeps the gasket in place while fitting it back.
If removal is ever needed, it will be far easier.
I think the fitting you refer to are of the banjo type. I'll defer to others to comment there.
Carl
Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 70
Likes: 36
From: Saint Louis, MO
The cam oil feed banjos are located on the vertical rear sides of the head--one behind each cam cover. They are supplied by ~1/4 inch metal tubing which on early cars comes from the block on the exhaust side, and on later cars from the top of the oil filter block. I think yours might still be the exhaust side. You can examine the banjos for leakage. If they are leaking, there is considerable info in the archives--be sure to check before trying to fix the leak(s).
You can remove the cam covers very soon after shutdown. Oil remains indefinitely, but it does not go above the level of the cam covers (but close). There is also much info about sealing the covers in the archives. Many recommend gaskets made by Cometic--I do. Don't over-tighten the cam cover domed nuts. IMHO.
You can remove the cam covers very soon after shutdown. Oil remains indefinitely, but it does not go above the level of the cam covers (but close). There is also much info about sealing the covers in the archives. Many recommend gaskets made by Cometic--I do. Don't over-tighten the cam cover domed nuts. IMHO.