feedback about purchasing 302 swapped 1978 XJ6
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From: United States
I had a set of those alloys. The center cap sticker is missing and replacing it would go along way to enhancing the looks. Very good wheel light and should ride like a dream... but if one is bad there are no individual replacements available. Make sure they run smooth and vibration free.
Seems to be red paint under the hood where the fender meets the engine bay. That will need an explantion.
Seems to be red paint under the hood where the fender meets the engine bay. That will need an explantion.
Okay so I'm willing to have a car that needs to be worked on to keep in tip top shape. I'm going to keep my daily driver at least until I am fully confident in my ability to keep a Jaguar in tip top shape. However, could you maybe describe a bit how much work is needed to keep one going in general?
I guess what I'm asking is will it take an hour each weekend to fight electrical gremlins?
Should I expect major drivability problems to occur every 100 miles?
1000 miles?
I'm just trying to get a feel for what I may be getting myself into. I'm okay with working on my cars, I always have. I'm okay with owning a car that will take more commitment.
The problem is I've only owned fairly bullet proof Japanese cars so I don't really have a frame of reference to consider.
Thanks again for your help!
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From: New York City
Moisture is this car's enemy. I've owned one running series 3 car briefly. Some times it wouldn't start and sometime it would not. There are no weather proof electrical connectors on these cars like you would find on a 90's japanese car. Other than the connectors, the series 3 cars systems don't have many inherent problems.
To make it reliable you can "Re-engeneer" the wiring to some degree cleaning connectors, applying moisture control grease and replacing finicky connectors. There in lies the attraction for many of us. The challenge, the tinkering, the understanding... it's all part of an electromechanical-organic relationship some of us find satisfying and you might as well.
To make it reliable you can "Re-engeneer" the wiring to some degree cleaning connectors, applying moisture control grease and replacing finicky connectors. There in lies the attraction for many of us. The challenge, the tinkering, the understanding... it's all part of an electromechanical-organic relationship some of us find satisfying and you might as well.
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Great satisfaction in knowing all these guys (and girl) here talked me the through the whole project,start to finish.
Last edited by o1xjr; Mar 17, 2017 at 07:22 AM.
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From: Walnut Creek, California
Go for it. As it is a lump, much of the under the bonnet Jaguar wires are gone. A lot of engine was under there in a cramped space with limited air flow. Wires and connectors got cooked. Gremlins appear.
A smaller engine in place. Better air flow, still not optimum, but better. And a lot of fresh wiring.
My lump is imperfect. But, I term it quite reliable. No Japanese cars here. But, the guy across the street has about three in his drive, that don't drive!!! Three cars do drive, but one is a really big Chevrolet van. It always drives when needed to transport his big family all at once!!!
My lump got admired yesterday, by an expat Brit, nonetheless.
Carl
A smaller engine in place. Better air flow, still not optimum, but better. And a lot of fresh wiring.
My lump is imperfect. But, I term it quite reliable. No Japanese cars here. But, the guy across the street has about three in his drive, that don't drive!!! Three cars do drive, but one is a really big Chevrolet van. It always drives when needed to transport his big family all at once!!!
My lump got admired yesterday, by an expat Brit, nonetheless.
Carl
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From: United States
Well... that's not super encouraging! Haha Just kidding I know what you meant.
Note to self: Do not detail engine bay with power washer.
Note to self: Do not detail engine bay with power washer.
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Thanks Clarke, that is actually encouraging and this forum seems to have some awesome knowledgeable people. Heck they're willing to take the time to give a noob like me solid info even though I don't even own a Jaguar yet. Very cool.
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Go for it. As it is a lump, much of the under the bonnet Jaguar wires are gone. A lot of engine was under there in a cramped space with limited air flow. Wires and connectors got cooked. Gremlins appear.
A smaller engine in place. Better air flow, still not optimum, but better. And a lot of fresh wiring.
My lump is imperfect. But, I term it quite reliable. No Japanese cars here. But, the guy across the street has about three in his drive, that don't drive!!! Three cars do drive, but one is a really big Chevrolet van. It always drives when needed to transport his big family all at once!!!
My lump got admired yesterday, by an expat Brit, nonetheless.
Carl
A smaller engine in place. Better air flow, still not optimum, but better. And a lot of fresh wiring.
My lump is imperfect. But, I term it quite reliable. No Japanese cars here. But, the guy across the street has about three in his drive, that don't drive!!! Three cars do drive, but one is a really big Chevrolet van. It always drives when needed to transport his big family all at once!!!
My lump got admired yesterday, by an expat Brit, nonetheless.
Carl
https://boise.craigslist.org/cto/6047191357.html
The interior on the 302 conversion was already starting to rub me the wrong way.
But.. maybe I should wait for a lump that keeps the interior styling more original. Tough choices for sure.
Would it be possible to have an original Jag completely rewired to more modern wires/ connections?
I've never heard of that so I'm sure it must not be worth it but, just spit balling.
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From: Walnut Creek, California
I gotta agree the later original car at 5K is a better choice than the Lump at 10K. Were
the lump to be available at or near the 5K, the decision would be more complex.
In my view, choose the car you like best. You will be far more likely to be able to deal with the issues that will exist.
1. Those different wheels may or may not be properly fit. Very important to see if spacers are used and if so the proper ones Hub centric vs lug centric !!!!
2. Tis possible to swap rotors in situ. Ease dependant on equipment. And, if the maintenance has been decent or close to it, a rotor isn't likely. Pads, for sure. Not easy, but quite doable. Caliper swap in situ? Tough but doable. Dropping the IRS, far from the impossible.
3. I could be well pleased with the 4.2 car in my drive!!!
Carl
the lump to be available at or near the 5K, the decision would be more complex.
In my view, choose the car you like best. You will be far more likely to be able to deal with the issues that will exist.
1. Those different wheels may or may not be properly fit. Very important to see if spacers are used and if so the proper ones Hub centric vs lug centric !!!!
2. Tis possible to swap rotors in situ. Ease dependant on equipment. And, if the maintenance has been decent or close to it, a rotor isn't likely. Pads, for sure. Not easy, but quite doable. Caliper swap in situ? Tough but doable. Dropping the IRS, far from the impossible.
3. I could be well pleased with the 4.2 car in my drive!!!
Carl
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Member
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: United States
I gotta agree the later original car at 5K is a better choice than the Lump at 10K. Were
the lump to be available at or near the 5K, the decision would be more complex.
In my view, choose the car you like best. You will be far more likely to be able to deal with the issues that will exist.
1. Those different wheels may or may not be properly fit. Very important to see if spacers are used and if so the proper ones Hub centric vs lug centric !!!!
2. Tis possible to swap rotors in situ. Ease dependant on equipment. And, if the maintenance has been decent or close to it, a rotor isn't likely. Pads, for sure. Not easy, but quite doable. Caliper swap in situ? Tough but doable. Dropping the IRS, far from the impossible.
3. I could be well pleased with the 4.2 car in my drive!!!
Carl
the lump to be available at or near the 5K, the decision would be more complex.
In my view, choose the car you like best. You will be far more likely to be able to deal with the issues that will exist.
1. Those different wheels may or may not be properly fit. Very important to see if spacers are used and if so the proper ones Hub centric vs lug centric !!!!
2. Tis possible to swap rotors in situ. Ease dependant on equipment. And, if the maintenance has been decent or close to it, a rotor isn't likely. Pads, for sure. Not easy, but quite doable. Caliper swap in situ? Tough but doable. Dropping the IRS, far from the impossible.
3. I could be well pleased with the 4.2 car in my drive!!!
Carl
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From: Walnut Creek, California
The wheels on the 85 do not look original to me. I can't tell if they are Jaguar wheels from a different Jaguar or after market. But, if spacers are used, it is of utmost import, that they be hub centric.
LnrB, aka Elinor posts here. She can vouch for that, a misadventure with her prize, NIX almost happened....
Nice cars, in my view, each in it' own way.
Carl
LnrB, aka Elinor posts here. She can vouch for that, a misadventure with her prize, NIX almost happened....
Nice cars, in my view, each in it' own way.
Carl
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From: Tehama County, California, USA
Thank you, Carl,
I do have some experience with spacers; the good, the bad and the ugly.
Bad spacers are nothing short of Dangerous; they're also Ugly.
Even the best spacers take some 'fine' adjustments to make them right.
(';')
I do have some experience with spacers; the good, the bad and the ugly.
Bad spacers are nothing short of Dangerous; they're also Ugly.
Even the best spacers take some 'fine' adjustments to make them right.
(';')
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From: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
So I was getting way to close to going forward on that 302 Jag I posted originally. Then in a moment of clarity I said to myself:
"Self, you're clearly infatuated with vintage Jaguars right now, take a step back to make sure you're thinking clearly"
So, I took a step back and stopped looking at that dumb ad for a few days to make sure I wasn't making a major decision on lust alone.
When I start looking at the photos of the 302 Jag again and comparing it to pictures of true unmolested Jaguar interiors my love affair started to end.
Upon some reflection I feel that Jaguar just nailed the exterior AND interior of those classic XJ6s. The copper is cool to me but not timeless. The seat design to me is really neat but doesn't seem as rich.
Then. I. Found. This.
https://boise.craigslist.org/cto/6047191357.html
I like this one 10x more than the 302 Jag. I suppose that because it is still 100% original it's probably not going to be as reliable but man it looks lovely. And the owners look like true enthusiast, which can only be a major plus.
What do you guys think? And thanks for all your input thus far on my Jaguar journey.
"Self, you're clearly infatuated with vintage Jaguars right now, take a step back to make sure you're thinking clearly"
So, I took a step back and stopped looking at that dumb ad for a few days to make sure I wasn't making a major decision on lust alone.
When I start looking at the photos of the 302 Jag again and comparing it to pictures of true unmolested Jaguar interiors my love affair started to end.
Upon some reflection I feel that Jaguar just nailed the exterior AND interior of those classic XJ6s. The copper is cool to me but not timeless. The seat design to me is really neat but doesn't seem as rich.
Then. I. Found. This.
https://boise.craigslist.org/cto/6047191357.html
I like this one 10x more than the 302 Jag. I suppose that because it is still 100% original it's probably not going to be as reliable but man it looks lovely. And the owners look like true enthusiast, which can only be a major plus.
What do you guys think? And thanks for all your input thus far on my Jaguar journey.
old sir William Lyons studied Hypnotism, most guys are blindly in love with there JAGUAR,No matter what!
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The 85 is a base model[no rear head rests or timber inserts in door cards] as far as reliability goesif the amplifier/coil fuel pump etc are all original i would replace as a matter of course[or go pertronix] as mentioned above pulling all plugs and fuses/relays and cleaning off corrosion, also pull fuel return/change over solinoids and clean contacts. ive done all this with my 86 and is proving reliable and a great long distance traveller, remember it is old, a friend with the same age merc has the same small issues, it comes with age
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The 85 is a base model[no rear head rests or timber inserts in door cards] as far as reliability goesif the amplifier/coil fuel pump etc are all original i would replace as a matter of course[or go pertronix] as mentioned above pulling all plugs and fuses/relays and cleaning off corrosion, also pull fuel return/change over solinoids and clean contacts. ive done all this with my 86 and is proving reliable and a great long distance traveller, remember it is old, a friend with the same age merc has the same small issues, it comes with age
So for U.S. series 3 were the trims:
base < sovereign < vanden plas ?
Is there somewhere that tells the upgrades from one trim to another?
Also, is there a website you use for parts?
Thanks again!
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From: Pacific Northwest USA
I think Sovereign was a USA offering only in the next series...the XJ40 cars...and only for a year or two. I'm not at all positive about that, though. However, the Sov was definitely not offered in the USA for the Series I-II-III cars
Base vs Vanden Plas.....
The Series III VDP for the USA market had different (flatter) seats and higher grade leather, different door trim panels, rear map lights, furry floor mats, rear headrests (later cars), recessed instruments, higher grade burl wood, and for 1987 MY a color coordinated upper console (rather than black). That's all I can think of at the moment. It was essentially Daimler trim on an otherwise standard XJ6.
For the Canadian market, where the Sovereign WAS offered, the VDP was a V12 car.
Bear in mind that these model names and trim levels varied a lot, market by market. It takes some time to sort out all the variances.
Also, is there a website you use for parts?
Cheers
DD
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Accidently:
Your real name would be welcome. Mine is Carl !!
1. CA would not care one whit if the dash is copper or any other material.
2. But, very fussy on SMOG related things. Generally, the donor engine must be of the same year or newer than the recipient car. And, must include all the SMOG equipment of the donor. EGR, catalyctic converters, air pumps, tank ventilation, etc.
And an EFI car must get an EFI system. No back track from EFI to Carb. Off hand, I've no recollection if the 78 were carb'd or EFI!! A really big issue.
As to original vs converted values, views differ. Example. A well done conversion in a good car vs a medciocre original???
Carl
Your real name would be welcome. Mine is Carl !!
1. CA would not care one whit if the dash is copper or any other material.
2. But, very fussy on SMOG related things. Generally, the donor engine must be of the same year or newer than the recipient car. And, must include all the SMOG equipment of the donor. EGR, catalyctic converters, air pumps, tank ventilation, etc.
And an EFI car must get an EFI system. No back track from EFI to Carb. Off hand, I've no recollection if the 78 were carb'd or EFI!! A really big issue.
As to original vs converted values, views differ. Example. A well done conversion in a good car vs a medciocre original???
Carl
I'm Alex by the way thanks for the help!