So I'm looking at the possibility of just dropping a fuel cell in the SBC Jag, could care less about originality anymore as most of my focus and money is going into the 240Z now. So I just want to get it running cheap instead of buying new fuel tanks and new selector valves and all that jazz. Anyways, I'm contemplating putting it in the spare tire well as my main choice. I'm not opposed to the idea of putting it in the very back of the trunk up against the back seat but I think it'd just be easier to get the straps to it and fasten it down in the tire well. Anyways, here's the max dimensions roughly that I found, but it was dark and cold outside, so feel free to amend any figures you see here.

I'm looking at about 8.5" deep max if I want to put a false floor over the top of it to hide it, but if I don't care about that, then 9.5 to 10" or more isn't really out of the question. As far as width, 26" seems to be a nominal number so it will set down in the well and not press up against anything else. And as far as length, I figured about 24", which puts it solely in the area where the tire goes instead of getting towards the ends where the stock fuel pump and antenna motor and all that stuff is.

 

Some options...

1. get two good stock tanks...tie them together with a simple T fitting so they balance out. You can also ditch the complicated jag valve arrangement in favor of a simple one piece pollack valve. BTW... I have a right side tank for sale in excellent condition (150$) and I'll have a pair from a late 80's xj6 I'm parting in a few weeks.

2. get a fuel cell and mount it behind the back seat area. Most cells have ears that you can use to simply screw the tank to the sheet metal in your trunk floor.

All things considered I think the fuel cell would be less expensive but you will have limited fuel capacity with a single cell. A good quality fuel cell costs about 200$ and then you have the cost to plumb a fill neck and new lines. A pair of good used tanks and a pollack valve and some 3/8's hose will cost about $400.

 

My car already has all the factory fuel stuff removed except the tanks, they were tee'd together but they both have a shitty reline job from a previous owners. I was just going to fill the cell rather than running a hose to one of the factory fill spots. I can have the old ones dipped and re-lined for about $250'ish at a local radiator shop, but still I'd have to reinstall them in those pain in the *** locations

 

I resisted posting this on the site so as not to offend the purists. I installed a 23 gallon fuel cell in the space where the spare tire was. I paid $30.00 for a used 30 gal fuel, and had to cut the back end to fit the raised area where the original fuel pump and antenna was located. Welding ($160)The dimension of the tank is now 30" long, 23" wide 8" deep. To accommodate the raised area, the tank was tapered gradually at the 22" mark on the long side to 4". I removed the raised threaded piece for the spare tire on the trunk floor and blocked the resulting hole. The filler pipe is connected to the passenger side. the tank has to be removed in order to cut the hole for the filler pipe. I removed the antenna extension and mounted the antenna in the space where the passenger side tank used to be. I am in the process of working out the best way to use the driver's side fuel tank to store additional fuel using a lock off valve, so I can have an additional 10 gallons of fuel if needed. I have done this job in such a way that I can revert to the original configuration at any time. The fuel cell is vented through the original lines to the charcoal canister, and one through a check valve ($15) I bought at the marine store. This check valve opens when air is displaced from the tank when you are filling it up. In my case I am using a low pressure electric fuel pump 2-4 psi for the carbureted engine and the original fuel lines to the engine. I am including some pictures so you can get an idea of what I did without butchering the car. Looks ugly but the stuff on it is fiberglass resin. Still have to clean it up. It is now fully functional. If you have any questions let me know.

 

Any update? I'm in the same boat with a lumped S1 and rusted tanks. I've never been a purist and have no problem installing a cell but am concerned with day to day use. When you're filling up does the filler neck get full as well?

I personally like the idea of installing something in the forward most compartment of the trunk that way the spare can live in its natural habitat. Fabricating some straps shouldn't be the end of the world.

 

The problem with mounting the fuel cell in the forward most part of the trunk is the locating of the filler pipe. I have a tank that would fit there but when I looked at the area inside the fender well I would have had to cut through the wheel well then cut through the inside wall of the trunk. Placing it in the spare tire well was more logical, since I only had to make one cut through the trunk wall.

 

Before changing my S1 tanks to S2 tanks to get fuel return bungs for the fuel injection, I debated on a fuel cell.

Using rubber flexible tubing like from a truck, cutting the hole into the trunk area and sealing the opening would be a minor task. I too wanted to keep the spare tire area and used it for the Pollak six port changeover valve and fuel pump.

Summit Racing has several cells that could be used or you could have one made up at one of the custom fuel tank manufacturers.

 

I'm going with a BD Racing Street Series 19 gal cell (flat bottom, aluminum) in my spare tire compartment. Just received all the plumbing gear from Summit... waiting for the weather to cooperate here in StL.

Also for my Gen 1 350 with 4 brl carb, I'm going back to a Holley mechanical pump with the new fuel system. A) can't stand the noise from that electric pump; and B) I think the mechanical pump will be an improvement in performance.