Fuel Changeover Switch Problems In 87 Series 3 XJ6
Hi all!, so im still fairly new to jags ive had mine technically for almost half a year now but most of those months its been sitting in the shop due to a bent piston rod (long story) anyways its back and running beautifully, although there is one issue i was hoping someone here could help me with. so the fuel changeover switch in my jag while it works (when pressed it will switch tanks) the only problem is that it wont stay down, i know the easy answer would be to get a new switch and pop that sucker in only issue is that those little switches seem to be running about 90 USD on SNG and right now i just dont have that kind of cash so i was hoping that this could maybe just be a bit of plastic that rubbed away that i can try to fix or something like that, and while im writing this post i may aswell include the fact that my right tank wen active, the gauge wont go above half way and it seems that on both tanks the gauge goes down to zero before theyre actually empty any thoughts on that one? any and all suggestions are appreciated thank you all for taking the time out of your day to read this! stay safe and have a good one!
I've opened a number of those horrible switches and they are very simple inside, the trick is to get the cap off. Once you achieve that, then all the parts and springs will fly into the air and dissapear unless you do it inside a clear bag.
the tank floats can be somewhat adjusted, but you have to remove them, lube them, bend them and reinstall them..
the tank floats can be somewhat adjusted, but you have to remove them, lube them, bend them and reinstall them..
The switch does have an internal latching mechanism, obviously.
Many years ago I tried repairing one but bollixed it up; they're a bit intricate. Others who have met with success might come along and give you some useful info.
As for the gauge reading zero prematurely, that sounds like faulty sending units in the gas tanks. Not too expensive, not too hard to replace
Cheers
DD
Many years ago I tried repairing one but bollixed it up; they're a bit intricate. Others who have met with success might come along and give you some useful info.
As for the gauge reading zero prematurely, that sounds like faulty sending units in the gas tanks. Not too expensive, not too hard to replace
Cheers
DD
David at Everydayxj.com has high quality used parts for very reasonable cost. Once a part is ordered you have it in three days. If it was me, I'd give it a go trying to fix it and if it didn't work contact David.
Jeff
Jeff
David at Everydayxj.com has high quality used parts for very reasonable cost. Once a part is ordered you have it in three days. If it was me, I'd give it a go trying to fix it and if it didn't work contact David.
Jeff
Jeff
i contacted him about two months ago and he told me he's NOT shipping any items out of his stock.
Well, contact him, who knows.
I had the same switch problem where it wouldn’t latch. I was able to repair it by gluing on a small plastic piece to retain the end of the spring.....I think the original retaining lug had snapped off. It was a while ago I did this. But the point is, it should be repairable at home
Hi,
on the fuel sender problem, the floats might be leaking / sinking so not giving a correct reading.
To remove them for checking, you need almost empty tanks ( or you will have a LARGE gas spill !! )
Remove the tail light lens then the chrome light assembly.
You can then see the sender unit, disconnect the two wires, then remove the lock ring.
Carefully remove the sender, it might be stuck to the gasket so pry gently with a plastic or brass screwdriver, wood stick etc.
Once removed you can see / hear if the float has fuel inside.
The sender resistance should change from 20 to 250 ohms when you move the float arm.
You can change just the floats if the senders are still good, David at Everydayxj.com has them JLM772 or you can use 1955-1986 Jeep CJ6 ( # 17729.01 ) ones like I did before I saw that he had them.
Just make sure to use new seals ARA1502 when you replace the senders.
I'm going to start a thread about bringing my Euro cat back to life tomorrow where I will have pictures and more info if you need it.
Cheers,
Brian
on the fuel sender problem, the floats might be leaking / sinking so not giving a correct reading.
To remove them for checking, you need almost empty tanks ( or you will have a LARGE gas spill !! )
Remove the tail light lens then the chrome light assembly.
You can then see the sender unit, disconnect the two wires, then remove the lock ring.
Carefully remove the sender, it might be stuck to the gasket so pry gently with a plastic or brass screwdriver, wood stick etc.
Once removed you can see / hear if the float has fuel inside.
The sender resistance should change from 20 to 250 ohms when you move the float arm.
You can change just the floats if the senders are still good, David at Everydayxj.com has them JLM772 or you can use 1955-1986 Jeep CJ6 ( # 17729.01 ) ones like I did before I saw that he had them.
Just make sure to use new seals ARA1502 when you replace the senders.
I'm going to start a thread about bringing my Euro cat back to life tomorrow where I will have pictures and more info if you need it.
Cheers,
Brian
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