Gears & Bolts
#1
Gears & Bolts
still stuck trying to install the gear stick to the gear level on the transmission box, not only a fiddly job but critical things like a place to affix the securing bolt in the middle(ish) to seem absent. task driving me mad in gear.
tension all over the show. any hints? took out a bolt on the body of the transmission today and tried to affix the securing box there but the cable became stiff and immovable.
still assuming gear selection lever on box fully foward is Park.
tension all over the show. any hints? took out a bolt on the body of the transmission today and tried to affix the securing box there but the cable became stiff and immovable.
still assuming gear selection lever on box fully foward is Park.
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Two points:
1. Look at your sketch. Very helpful. Cabin 'stick" fully forward to "P"
pulls box stick all the way CW to what should be "P"
2. Check and see that the cable moves smoothly in the housing. securing the housing is a must. But, the cable inside must travel to transfer cabin "stick" motion to box "stick" position.
Keep pounding!
Carl
1. Look at your sketch. Very helpful. Cabin 'stick" fully forward to "P"
pulls box stick all the way CW to what should be "P"
2. Check and see that the cable moves smoothly in the housing. securing the housing is a must. But, the cable inside must travel to transfer cabin "stick" motion to box "stick" position.
Keep pounding!
Carl
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adenshillito (02-09-2016)
#3
FWIW When I installed a GM drive train in my 86 XJ6. I used the stock Jaguar shift cable.
Because the transmission is different from the Jag, I have had to use a new bracket, that bolts to the transmission oil pan using bolts ( 2 longer trans bolts were substituted to account for the thick bracket (1/4 inch))
The bracket is basically stock mild steel plate - flat 4 inch long by 1 inch wide with two bolt holes that line up with the 2 pan bolts. The bracket is 1/4 inch thick. Has to be sturdy.
It has another piece of metal (same dimensions) that is welded at right angle to the "base part" ( this flat bar) and extends upward. It has a hole for the bolt (which passes through the block on cable) to pass through and secures the bracket to the block on the shift cable. Make a mock up from stiff cardboard then create a metal part using the cardboard as a pattern. I would attach the cable to the trans shifter and take note of the location of the cable position relative to the trans pan rail. You need the cable to be secured but straight as it passes through the bolt block. Hope that makes sense.
The idea is that you have to supply a firm anchor for this bracket (using 2 bolts that are holding the trans oil pan to the trans. - get 2 more that are a bit longer.
This bracket will allow you to secure the "cable block" that is a part of the outer cable near the trans shifter arm, to this bracket.
I got the bracket from JTR ( Jags That Run) as part of their swap kit for Jag to GM V8.
Basically you have a flat bar with another flat bar welded to it and that provides an anchor point for the bolt block and the upright part has a hole in the upper end which will allow the bolt block to be secured to it so it can hold the outer cable in a fixed position, allowing the inner part of the cable to move - operate the gear selector. Keep the cable as straight as possible in order to avoid binding and allow smooth operation.
Because the transmission is different from the Jag, I have had to use a new bracket, that bolts to the transmission oil pan using bolts ( 2 longer trans bolts were substituted to account for the thick bracket (1/4 inch))
The bracket is basically stock mild steel plate - flat 4 inch long by 1 inch wide with two bolt holes that line up with the 2 pan bolts. The bracket is 1/4 inch thick. Has to be sturdy.
It has another piece of metal (same dimensions) that is welded at right angle to the "base part" ( this flat bar) and extends upward. It has a hole for the bolt (which passes through the block on cable) to pass through and secures the bracket to the block on the shift cable. Make a mock up from stiff cardboard then create a metal part using the cardboard as a pattern. I would attach the cable to the trans shifter and take note of the location of the cable position relative to the trans pan rail. You need the cable to be secured but straight as it passes through the bolt block. Hope that makes sense.
The idea is that you have to supply a firm anchor for this bracket (using 2 bolts that are holding the trans oil pan to the trans. - get 2 more that are a bit longer.
This bracket will allow you to secure the "cable block" that is a part of the outer cable near the trans shifter arm, to this bracket.
I got the bracket from JTR ( Jags That Run) as part of their swap kit for Jag to GM V8.
Basically you have a flat bar with another flat bar welded to it and that provides an anchor point for the bolt block and the upright part has a hole in the upper end which will allow the bolt block to be secured to it so it can hold the outer cable in a fixed position, allowing the inner part of the cable to move - operate the gear selector. Keep the cable as straight as possible in order to avoid binding and allow smooth operation.
Last edited by alynmurray; 02-09-2016 at 09:21 AM.
#4
Looking at your drawing I think you have things backward.. Looking at the transmission the lever,.. it should rotate clockwise fully to be in PARK.
When setting this up ,..I would disconnect the cable from the trans shifter arm,,.. rotate the arm clockwise to find PARK then 1 click counterclockwise (straight up - towards front) REVERSE,... set the shifter lever in the car to R and then connect the cable to the trans shifter arm.
When setting this up ,..I would disconnect the cable from the trans shifter arm,,.. rotate the arm clockwise to find PARK then 1 click counterclockwise (straight up - towards front) REVERSE,... set the shifter lever in the car to R and then connect the cable to the trans shifter arm.
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adenshillito (02-09-2016)
#6
Yeah its sort of counter intuitive can fuzz the brain - upside down and backward. Once you get it straight in your head ...it will work out.
There is a bit of adjustment where the upper portion of the cable ( in the car) has 2 lock nuts to allow positioning of the outer cable. Also the gear shifter mount has a bit of variance as well ( I have an 86 S3 might be a bit different). Bottom line is set it up using the "reverse" straight up position on both ends
There is a bit of adjustment where the upper portion of the cable ( in the car) has 2 lock nuts to allow positioning of the outer cable. Also the gear shifter mount has a bit of variance as well ( I have an 86 S3 might be a bit different). Bottom line is set it up using the "reverse" straight up position on both ends
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