My car is so far taken apart that now is the perfect time to do so many different things. One of those things is trying to make the fresh air ducting from the headlights into the passenger compartment operational. I have seen both transition flex ducts behind the wheel well panels, but there is nothing inside. In the shop manual, a one paragraph blurb on the subject shows a couple of control flaps and the necessary push/pull cable. Does anyone have any experience performing this operation? Where would I get the hardware if I can get the vent open to the interior?

Thank for any help,

Dave

 

you would need to get all the hardware from a Series 2.

short of that, get two center console rear seat vents and install one on each kick panel.

 

Here's a diagram so you get the lay of the land


As Jose says you'll need to get everything you need from a donor car. However, to ease the search a bit I'll just add that this system was used on Series III cars as well, until 1982 or so. (Actually later than that in the rare cases where climate control wasn't fitted. These 'heater only' cars were not sold in the USA, though)

Cheers
DD

 

that diagram sure looks like a lot of complication to get "fresh" air ! Fresh air?
More like dirty smelly exhaust fumes from Ford diesel trucks and Mercedes diesels spewing black smoke into our lungs, and the IRONY is that they are EXEMPT !

As if the air that comes in through the cowl vent wasn't enough to poison you ! I prefer recirculation.

Make sure you wash those plastic accordion hoses that have been collecting dirt and grime for 40 years without a way to exit !

I would also add a Filter at the headlight grille.

Remember, the answer is already inside the car.

 

If your in bumper to bumper traffic I would agree with Jose. But in my 1979.5 series3 I use the fresh air vents all the time. Depends on where you are and the weather.

Jeff

 

I can see now that this little project is not going to happen.

Thanks for your opinion Jose. I think the parts needed to finish this fresh air intake makes it out of the question for me. As far as keeping out the dirty smelly exhaust fumes from diesel vehicles, I would think that with just one finger and 1.5 seconds of time, you could just close the vent-I might be wrong. If you see new(er) diesel pickups/cars belching black smoke on hard acceleration, you can bet it's because the owner has installed aftermarket injectors, turbo's, computer chips or changed the PCM programming to increase fuel into the engine, or the vehicle has not been maintained, all of which is quite probably illegal. Newer diesels are regulated, just not by gasoline standards. New diesels (Clean Diesel Technology) are very clean and because diesel has more energy than gas, it does the same work in a shorter amount of time. I get 21 mpg with my 8,000lb 1ton 4-wheel drive crew cab diesel on a trip into Anchorage and am lucky to get 17mpg with my 6,000lb 4-wheel drive gas Suburban on the same trip.

But like you, I hate the black clouds of exhaust that come out of a guys diesel pickup when he wants to out-run everyone at the stop light.

Bumper to bumper traffic is not really a problem for me, but I think I was just trying to climb a mountain because it was there. I think I'll pass on this mod.

Thanks to everyone,

Dave

 

Dave, I was talking about Florida, now I know why these trucks put out so much poison, they are OFF ROAD ! Cabs 7 feet off the ground, they must feel like King Kong up there.

Don't let me discourage you, contact David and tell him to send you two rear seat center console vents with the hoses, or use vacuum cleaner hoses, same thing.

with those vents you don't need no pull cable. Just twist their center knob open or close. Elegant solution.

 

Vehicle pollution not withstanding, you guys made the point why these manual vents haven't been built into our cars for 40-50 years, there is no real need for them. I can find something else cool to do while the car is stripped...maybe.

Thanks,

Dave

P.S. OFF ROAD vehicles, the bain of the true outdoorsman (that'll net me some fan mail). More wilderness up here is marred by these modified vehicles (their drivers actually) than anything else I can think of. I own and use a small side-by-side ATV to travel in remote areas of the state, but always on old mining trails or other established trails. I don't disturb any trail access that hasn't already been established. I am a proud tree-hugger and moderately accomplished automotive wrench, maybe that's why I have trouble with myself sometimes.

 

my '65 S type has a more or less manual Air vent at the cowl between the wipers. You press a button and a scuttle opens by vacuum. It works with a vacuum actuator just like the blowers and flaps in the XJ-6 air system.

the nice thing is that you can heat the incoming air in fall and winter, or just close the scuttle vent and the blower fan takes over recirculating cool or heated air.

primitive but efficient.

And the wipers are a lot faster than the XJ wipers.

I am preparing to lump the S type with a 4.2 XJ-6 motor.

 

Yes, I've followed you here on the Forum and remember you talking about your S type swap. I have also seen several post from different people about the S3 wipers. I have rebuilt my wiper motor/controls but am a long way from seeing them wipe rain from the windscreen. What seems to be the problem with them and is it something I can fix while the unit is still in a box up on the shelf?

Thanks,

Dave

 

the problem with the XJ wipers:

supposedly it is Voltage to the motor from the wipers switch. The distance between the motor and the switch.

but that does not make any sense to me because the 1965 S type has the same identical cable wipers system, at more or less the same distance, and the wipers are very fast. The only difference is that the S type does not have the intermittent function, it has a two-speed motor, the Lucas DR3.

to put it in context, the fast speed of the XJ wipers is the low speed of the S type wipers.

Better still, the DR3 motor of the S type has a thumb knob that lets you fine tune where the wipers park when you turn them off. Will the Lucas DR3 wiper motor work in the XJ-6 ? probably but you will lose the intermittent feature, I don't know.

There is a mod to add 3 relays to the XJ motor power supply but I've not done it.
If you are interested I will post a link to the page where it is.

 

Yes, that wiper mod sounds interesting, I would appreciate it if you sent the particulars. As I've read all the complaints about the wiper speed, I guess I thought the problem was from an overloaded/weak motor. Sounds like it might be a gearing issue?

If you want to PM me with that info Jose, I won't divert this thread anymore.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Dave,
we always end up deviating from the original subject because like the song says: "one thing leads to another".

With private messaging, I can't attach any files, so I will post one file here and also a link to a UK site that has images.

I will upload them later this evening. If you figure out the mod, let me know, it is complicated to do.

 

Dave,

the following replies contain the files I have regarding the wiper motor wiring modification. You can right click on each file to save them for future use. I suggest you save them.

File 01: this is the Factory wiring schematic of the wiper system in the Series 3 XJ-6 and 12.

 

File 02: adding relays to wiper motor

 

File 03: more detail on adding relays to wiper motor, SK JagTech (.PDF file)

 

File 04: SK JagTech UK - schematics and mods for Series 3 XJ-6 and 12 (.PDF file)

 

I glad you captured all that good SKJagtech stuff before it all went away !

Cheers
DD

 

Thank you Jose, I'm going to give this issue a serious look.

Dave

 

Doug, take a look at File 04, someone is serving that file online, it contains all their good stuff in one file.

Dave, if you do the wiper motor mod, document it with pictures and do a thread about it.