Help identify alternator component
1) Can anyone identify what this is that's attached to my alternator. I'm referencing the black, square plastic piece attached with the phillips head screw. It looks like there is a broken wire but I don't see any dangling wire in the engine compartment:

2} is it okay to install a remanufactured alternator?

2} is it okay to install a remanufactured alternator?
Very odd. A product of West Germany. Pre unification, old!!!
Some value in German symbols Unrecognized. Google to see?
And, 110v. That is a household voltage. Not common in either Germany!!!
My guess. A condensor for radio static purposes...
Some value in German symbols Unrecognized. Google to see?
And, 110v. That is a household voltage. Not common in either Germany!!!
My guess. A condensor for radio static purposes...
took this bosch alternator of my 87 xj6. it works fine but since i have the compressor out, i thought i'd change the alt. my luck i'd get everything back together and a short time late, the alt would fail.
any opinion on reman alts?
any opinion on reman alts?
I understand the Bosch alternators were fitted to the 12 cylinder cars. Not a bad thing to put one in a 6 cylinder car. Maybe that is why the suppressor wire is cut. The 6 cylinder cars came with Lucas alternators.
Remanned anything is hit and miss. Sometimes you end up with a good remanufactured starter, alternator, or generator, sometimes you don't.
might as well take the Bosch to a local alternator shop and have it tested or refurbished. If you do, tell them to remove the suppressor.
Remanned anything is hit and miss. Sometimes you end up with a good remanufactured starter, alternator, or generator, sometimes you don't.
might as well take the Bosch to a local alternator shop and have it tested or refurbished. If you do, tell them to remove the suppressor.
Both of my SIIIs came with Bosch alternators and in both cases they seemed to be reliable. What usually fails is the built-in voltage regulator which can be removed and replaced.
I agree with Jose - have it rebuilt locally or find a kit online and rebuild it yourself.
I agree with Jose - have it rebuilt locally or find a kit online and rebuild it yourself.
The value symbols are not uniquely German, but used universally the world over, where . . .
2.2uF reads as 2.2 microfarads, which are the international units of capacitance.
110V has nothing to do with household voltage, but is the maximum voltage that the device is rated to withstand.
Finally, the '-' immediately after the 'V' indicates a DC voltage rating, which is the norm, as AC voltages (like electrical 'noise') is what this device suppresses.
Whereas electrical motor commutators, ignition points and HT distributors of old were notorious for interfering with radio reception, modern manufactured radios and better designed radio aerials make their use less necessary. That said, the traditional 'points' capacitor, if it fails (and who bothers to check or replace) can be the most effective cause of a 'no start' fault condition.
Cheers.
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