How do I remove lower timing chain series III xk engine?
#1
#3
Well, its really easy, it just pulls off !!
Actually you need to remove that Woodruff key I can see on the crank, then remove the circular oil seal track and then you can pull off the sprocket complete with chain. The top sprocket has no key it just rotates on a nice bearing. Due to "varnishing" over the years the lower sprocket is probably stuck so you may need to tap it a bit or use a puller on it and the oil seal track. Be careful extracting the Woodruff keys. They are a tight fit in a half-moon shaped keyway in the crank, and can be tapped out from the end using a blunt cold chisel, but try not to damage them too much. There are three Woodruff keys in all, the oil drive gear behind the cam chain sprocket also has a key.
Make sure you examine the teeth on the sprockets, because although they get soaked in oil they can wear out if its a very high mileage engine. Of course you replace both chains and the hydraulic tensioner. If they're not too badly grooved you can get away with re-using the fixed buffers, but if you want an engine as close to new as you can get, replace them. Don't forget to pull out and clean the little conical gauze inserted into the hole that supplies oil under pressure to the hydraulic tensioner. The hole is tiny and can get blocked as well.
What engine is it (size and approximate year) ? If this is your first time rebuilding an XK engine there is a lot more you need to know !
Actually you need to remove that Woodruff key I can see on the crank, then remove the circular oil seal track and then you can pull off the sprocket complete with chain. The top sprocket has no key it just rotates on a nice bearing. Due to "varnishing" over the years the lower sprocket is probably stuck so you may need to tap it a bit or use a puller on it and the oil seal track. Be careful extracting the Woodruff keys. They are a tight fit in a half-moon shaped keyway in the crank, and can be tapped out from the end using a blunt cold chisel, but try not to damage them too much. There are three Woodruff keys in all, the oil drive gear behind the cam chain sprocket also has a key.
Make sure you examine the teeth on the sprockets, because although they get soaked in oil they can wear out if its a very high mileage engine. Of course you replace both chains and the hydraulic tensioner. If they're not too badly grooved you can get away with re-using the fixed buffers, but if you want an engine as close to new as you can get, replace them. Don't forget to pull out and clean the little conical gauze inserted into the hole that supplies oil under pressure to the hydraulic tensioner. The hole is tiny and can get blocked as well.
What engine is it (size and approximate year) ? If this is your first time rebuilding an XK engine there is a lot more you need to know !
Last edited by Fraser Mitchell; 03-29-2017 at 05:38 PM.
#4
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There's no reason to feel stupid. Everyone here started out at the beginning some time, even Doug.
You'll catch on like we all have, and eventually you'll be able to help others.
Welcome to our playpen from ElinorB.
(';')
You'll catch on like we all have, and eventually you'll be able to help others.
Welcome to our playpen from ElinorB.
(';')