A Happy New Year to ALL.
So I returned to Florida from my Xmas vacation this morning and I saw coolant under my Series 3. Upon inspection, the coolant is leaking from a Welsh plug or Freeze plug under the intake manifold. I have to remove the intake to access the plug to remove and replace same.
Do I have to take off the coolant manifold on the top of the intake? One of the 6 bolts holding it, is frozen. (the one nearest the thermostat housing). There is no way for PB blaster to penetrate the bolt and I am afraid that it is going to break if I try to take it out.
Also, is there anyone out there with a step by step procedure to remove the intake manifold? Can I just remove the injector rail with the injectors to access the nuts holding the manifold to the head?
Thank you all in advance.

 

You can leave the coolant rail and injector rail in place. Just remove hose, wires, and cables as needed.

The intake will (almost certainly be) be very difficult to remove from the head as corrosion between the manifold and the studs holds it in place very strongly. Some mallet blows....cushioned by a block of wood....will likely do the trick to break the grip. Or, a bottle jack from underneath, again with a block of wood, will work as well. Once the initial grip is broken you can work the manifold up-down about a million times to actually get it off the studs.

Cheers
DD

 

Wow, I went thru all the service manual sections and there is not a step by step on intake manifold removal, zero, nada. But it does say in several places: DEPRESSURIZE FUEL SYSTEM ! haaa!

 

So, here is a step by step procedure for removing the Intake Manifold.
1. Disconnect all relevant wires and hoses.
2. Depressurize fuel system.
3. Disconnect fuel return line from FPR.
4. Practice your contortion skills and remove 12 nuts holding the Intake Manifold.
5. Beat the crap out of the Intake Manifold.
6. Beat the crap out of the Intake manifold from the underside.
7. Try again and again and again.
8. Cuss and give up.
9. Try again after an hour or so.
10. Give up and try again tomorrow.
11. It will finally loosen up but not before destroying your morale.
Additional steps can be added as you wish.
I hope this works for me sometime today. LMAO

 

I think you have a good grasp on the situation

Cheers
DD

 

Update: I banged away at the intake for about an hour and it has not budged. I am periodically spraying the exposed studs with PB blaster and will try again tomorrow. The intake is held on so tight by the corrosion on the stud, that you begin to second guess yourself as to whether you removed all of the nuts from the studs. this intake is like welded to the studs. Any ideas about very carefully using a propane torch around the exposed studs?

 

I think PB Blaster sucks, you might try Numb Nuts, I had to remove super rusted bolts and nuts at the front suspension of my 1997 Ford minivan. PB Blaster failed but Numb Nuts got them lose.

 

In the aviation world we use mouse milk and a heat gun.

 

Neat. what is the trade name for mouse milk.


Yes, I've an HF sourced electric heat gun. Not the temps of a
propane or MAP torch, but much safer in that application.


It's that alloy/steel combo that generates that bond.


I wonder if there is enough clearance for a tube with a sharp end or even serrated to drill it away ala hole cutter?


I recall an old craftsman using such a device to remove the heads from a Packard V12.


Carl

 

Tell us what you Really think, Jose! LOL
(';')

 

'NUMB NUTS,MOUSE MILK????' HERE IS ONE FOR YOU. PB BLASTER AKA 'PANTHER ****'.
Anyway, PB Blaster and some heat with a heat gun loosened up the manifold a little. As per Doug, I am rocking it up and down real close to the 1 million mark. Sprayed it with some more 'Panther ****' and hopefully by tomorrow I should have it out. My plan is to ream the holes slightly larger, so the next person (not me) who has to remove the intake for any reason will not have to go through this. It is a very painful process. Having said that, does any one know the size of the welsh plug? My parts catalog says its 7/8 but its bigger than that. I would not know the exact size until I have the manifold off so I can use a micrometer.

 

Clean openings and studs with antiseize on replacement will make things much easier next time.


I don't think reaming is necessary and possibly not even desirable.


Carl

 

Are all the nuts off the studs top and bottom rows ! You haven't missed one or two ?

 

It's finally off. Now for the easy part.

 

ALRIGHT!!
It might be a little early for a Sunday morning, but you deserve a treat!
(';')