Quite right Elinor, re-painting is an absolute last resort. As with Grey, there must be at least 50 blacks. So fortunate you have the door's interior trim off already - best of luck with it.

 

Does the passenger door open>

If so see if you can feel or see what the various rods actually move on the lock. Latch it by hand (or screwdriver) with door open and see if you can find the bit you need to move to unlock it.
Remove the lock if necessary to see how it works.

I had a similar problem on the Saab but with a bit of judicious (i.e. blind and sometimes foul language!!!) poking around with fingers and screwdrivers I managed to open it. took a while but at least I didn't take and angle grinder or oxy to it!!!

 

I'd call a Locksmith before resorting to radical surgery.

 

Two less radical ideas:


1. If Elinor is not in possession of a "Slim Jim", she might have access to one. Or make a facsimilie by grinding a common hack saw blade to make it narrower and thusly more flexible. Then poke at the latch which is between the door and the "B" pillar. Actually fastened to it. Try from in the car and from outside. With husband to work the key and/or paddles at the same time.


2. Perhaps a whack on the "B" pllar from the passenger door side might jar the latch open. Power on preferably .


3. A bit more radical, but not readily apparent. Drill a hole in the "B' pillar at the opposite side of the latch. Insert a stout rod to tip the latch free. Somewhat akin to the under the wing way to free a stuck bonnet latch.


4. Might make matters worse, so CAVEAT!!! Press the door to full close. If it latches, it just might unlatch the conventional way.


Carl

 

Thanks, Guys,
Die grinder is a small, precision air tool intended for delicate operations.



I also have access to an angle grinder but they don't even get to live in the same area of the shop.


A torch doesn't even get fired up when Nix is in the same building.

As I have all the door liners off, I'm thinking of spending some time learning Exactly how the rear latches work, because there's a BIG hole, and the window channel isn't in the way. All the components *look* the same, seem to *work* the same way, so I might be able to see exactly what needs tweaked to unlock that latch.

I never learned to use a slim-jim, wouldn't know where to try to hook it up. And the locksmiths in this area get a rash around anything older than about 10 years; Nix is older than most of them anyway. So, as usual, it's DIY at CasaB.

The biggest problem I have is tight quarters to work in and the contortionist movements required to even see into the front door, even with the back fully reclined, let along work in the cavity, what with the small hole blocked by rods and window track.

At least I don't have to worry about the steering wheel being in the way!
(';')

 

remove the rear seat, then remove the front driver's and passenger seat, put a piece of old carpet on the area you'll be working, it makes for a more comfortable working area.

spray WD40 at every linkage inside the door,

there must be a linkage you can pull inside the door to make the latch / catch open.
go straight for the culprit.

 

Slim Jims are/were once popular when door locks were purely mechanical. Sans fawncy electrics. A slim flat and thin metal tool. A small notch in the end. Objective. Open locked doors with windows closed and absent keys. Slip it down past the fur and glass to
reach and engage a locking rod. Wiggle to get a bite. Pull up. A clothes hanger with a bend at the end often used. Older cops, tow truck drivers, fire fighters, and repo guys so equipped and skilled. Oh, lock smiths as well Not to mention crooks.


I like the idea of studying the one that is more open to determine how it works, and then seek to do that on the miscreant lock.


Carl

 

looks like a Series 3 Lucas 4FP fuel pump.

 

Assuming you have a smart phine of some sort, go to home depot and in the tool section ,generally up front where they can be kept anneyenon is a newer section full of helpful ryobi bits and bobs, the latest two i bought a month or so ago include a moisture meter and the bit you would need, the scope! Both work through apps on the phone, the scope hooks up via wifi and whole screen is the screen for the camera. I work in construction and its a great tool for finding leaks etc behind walls and would also be great in your situation as its lit too!! Anyways, good luck!

 

Thank you, Darren!
What a Great idea, that's Just what I need!

I was doing battle today with not being able to see in there, as it's around 4 corners at 3 different angles behind a bunch of stuff in the dark.

I'm off to HD first thing in the morning to check out that section.

I'll report back...... maybe even with pictures!
(';')

 

Darren:


Ditto: A great progression of science in action.


In my former career, I needed to inspect areas in which I could not fit. Usually crawl spaces or the like. I use my camera, just pointed it in and took sequential shots. In those days, await film processing, then inspect. Showed a lot.


Now, around corners and in the blind and in real time, marvelous.


Elinor:


We await your usual illustrated tutorial!!!


Carl

 

Elinor, have you tried getting somebody who isnt quite as svelte as yourself to give the offending door a not so gentle tap with their hip???

You may not have knocked the latch to properly closed!

 

I got it open!
Couldn't get a bore scope today, have to order it online only now. Bummer.

But I've been thinking the past few days what could be jammed up. So I thought, since I have nothing to lose, I would disconnect one of the rods. Since I need the paddle to operate the lock, and I can open the door from the outside if this works, I disconnected the opening handle rod indicated by the red arrows in the picture below. You can just see the security clip hanging uselessly.

White arrow points to the locking rod, still connected as you can see by the security clip still in position.

After I disconnected the opener rod, the paddle went to its full forward (unlock) position. Then I only had to extricate myself from the foot-well, climb out and try the outer button.

IT OPENED!! (deep sigh of relief)

Now I only have to figure out how to connect it again. That should be a Lot of fun! Probably if I use the outer linkage, MAKING SURE THE PADDLE IS FULLY FORWARD THIS TIME, I should be able to line up the hole with the rod. Or the rod with the hole. Whichever.

EDIT: I had to lengthen the rod a bit to get it to line up with the hole in the bell crank.

Just squeeze with fingers and make longer or shorter as needed. After putting the security clip back, I shortened as much as possible as directed in the Blue Book (ROM).

Tests of all components are a Smashing success! /EDIT

Thank you, everyone, for all your support and helpful suggestions.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled programing........
(';')

 

Congratulations!

Though at only 4 days, it has to be one of the quicker escapades you have undertaken with Nix.

 

Thank you, Andrew,
This was only a sub-project encountered while dealing with the Much Larger problem, Why Central Locking Doesn't Work!

I sort of figure this falls under the category of No Good Deed Goes Unpunished. I knew I would be in for it when last week I cleared a storm drain where I used to live in town. It was sort of hidden, covered and filled with trash, so the area was flooding just like it did when I lived there.

There hadn't been enough rain the last 11 years since I move out here for it to be needed or for anyone to notice, so everyone simply forgot it was there. After I cleared it and cleaned the ditch, no more flooding in that spot.

But I knew it would cost me.
(';')

 

Well done.

Motto: DO NOT MESS WITH ELINOR.

 

Felicidades!! perseverance pays off.

 

The sweet taste of victory. Persistance, perserverance, satubborness or whatever one calls it usually wins the day !!!


Great work.


There is a storm drain box just down the road from here. The county road crew come y from time to time and clear it of debris. No flooding. Oddly, it crosses under the road and day lights in a neighbors yard, then back under to an ancient channel under ground. Lush greenery at there place..


Carl

 

Well done, glad to hear that no angle grinders, dremels etc were involved!!!

 

I'm not exactly petite, Andrew, but thank you for the thought.
I come from a long line of hippy women and stand 5 feet 9 inches.
(';')