Low Oil Pressure, XJ6
#21
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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#22
Join Date: Jan 2014
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I fitted a second hand sender today($40 rather than $130 for a new one). Same result,low oil pressure.
Removed it again and fitted the mechanical gauge, 40 psi at 2500 rpm,all good. Put the original sender back on since I know how it behaves. I will just test it with the mechanical gauge at each oil change for peace of mind.
Removed it again and fitted the mechanical gauge, 40 psi at 2500 rpm,all good. Put the original sender back on since I know how it behaves. I will just test it with the mechanical gauge at each oil change for peace of mind.
#23
Clarke,
Its a Jaguar, have some faith my man.
That in and out of the sender is serious drinking time invasion, HAHA.
Seriously, these things are bullet proof, and in all my years I have only seen one bottom end issue, and that engine was plain and simple OUT of oil, dumb owner. He would have killed a Commodore still under factory warranty, trust me.
When it hits 700K kms or more, then maybe a little bit of "thinking" might creep in.
Its a Jaguar, have some faith my man.
That in and out of the sender is serious drinking time invasion, HAHA.
Seriously, these things are bullet proof, and in all my years I have only seen one bottom end issue, and that engine was plain and simple OUT of oil, dumb owner. He would have killed a Commodore still under factory warranty, trust me.
When it hits 700K kms or more, then maybe a little bit of "thinking" might creep in.
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o1xjr (12-06-2014)
#24
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2.Not really, I was having a few cold ones while I did it! , in true Aussie fashion.
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Grant Francis (12-06-2014)
#25
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Some time back, the guage on my S# was showing low OP. As I had read of the jaguar sensors being a bit flakey and my LT1 hydraulic lifters were quiet, I was reasonably sure OP was OK.
But, to be sure, I went shopping for a mechanical guage. Amazingly, no luck. So, I got an after market electric guage and sensor kit. Sun Pro brand. sure, enough, I plumbed it in and the numbers were just right.
A neat unit.
But, a bit clumsy. A nice original NOS sensor from David Boger and all is well there.
If and when that sensor conks out, mebbe in twenty five years or so, I'll install the Sun Pro unit. Or will I???
Point, find an after market sensor if a Jaguar unit is out of budget.
Carl
.
;
But, to be sure, I went shopping for a mechanical guage. Amazingly, no luck. So, I got an after market electric guage and sensor kit. Sun Pro brand. sure, enough, I plumbed it in and the numbers were just right.
A neat unit.
But, a bit clumsy. A nice original NOS sensor from David Boger and all is well there.
If and when that sensor conks out, mebbe in twenty five years or so, I'll install the Sun Pro unit. Or will I???
Point, find an after market sensor if a Jaguar unit is out of budget.
Carl
.
;
#26
Clean the PCB contacts and mounting screws and grounds
I finally got my S1 gauges working correctly by cleaning all the copper PCB connections, the mounting screws, washers and nuts. Plus, the gauge
ground connections and tightening the mounting screws.
Made all of them work more precisely and even brightened the poor lights!
ground connections and tightening the mounting screws.
Made all of them work more precisely and even brightened the poor lights!
#28
I use a VDO 360006 with an adaptor on the V12 engines, and it is sooooo accurate and being VDO is reliable. No reason it wont work on the 6cyl.
Attachment 99450
Attachment 99450
I have the same symptom as many others on my V12, the gauge appears to be reading low and the sender seems to be the most likely cause based on the comments here. No reason to go with a known poor quality oem part
#29
1/2" NF.
I used an old oil drain plug from a V12, or an XK engine. Drilled a hole in it and tapped a thread. Most GM/Ford/etc use a 1/2" NF drain plug.
When threading the assembly into that alloy pedastal BE CAREFUL, as the threads are only alloy, and OLD, and can strip. There is simply no need for Gorilla tight. A NEW copper washer, and simply "nip" it up, always worked for me.
I used an old oil drain plug from a V12, or an XK engine. Drilled a hole in it and tapped a thread. Most GM/Ford/etc use a 1/2" NF drain plug.
When threading the assembly into that alloy pedastal BE CAREFUL, as the threads are only alloy, and OLD, and can strip. There is simply no need for Gorilla tight. A NEW copper washer, and simply "nip" it up, always worked for me.
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