XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

My 'New' 82 XJ6

 
  #1  
Old 02-23-2012, 04:57 AM
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Location: Melbourne Australia
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Default My 'New' 82 XJ6

G'day,
I had the relative fortune (or misfortune as it may become) of picking up a series 3 XJ6 for $800 which is the cheapest ive seen a running and driving jag in australia.

she isnt registered but has good screens, good tires, good brakes, suspension ect so shouldnt mechanically need much to get it on the road. few oil leaks and the all to common drive plate rattle at times but otherwise its mechanically sound. its major problem is a little rust on the left hand bottom of the windscreen. few other little bits but it is a 30 year old car so its to be forgiven.

main things i want to know are:

*what auto fluid and power steering fluid is best.
*whats the best way to stop and fill the rust under the screen without taking it out (ie grind it out, treat it then fiberglass bog?)
*where is the hazard light switch, ide say ill need it at some stage lol

she also has a slight tick so ill remove the rocker cover and see if a bucket has lifted but one of my knowledgeable mates said its just as good to put a single grub screw on each as a stalk down kit, anyone seen this?

thanks
regards jay
 
  #2  
Old 02-23-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aussie_ser3 View Post
*what auto fluid and power steering fluid is best.


Type "F" or "FA" for the transmission. Any name brand is fine. Some use Dexron for a softer shift.

The power steering uses ATF as well....F, FA, Dexron...whatever you have most of :-)



*whats the best way to stop and fill the rust under the screen without taking it out (ie grind it out, treat it then fiberglass bog?)



Without removing the glass you're just wasting your time, to be honest.




*where is the hazard light switch, ide say ill need it at some stage lol


On the steering column. Sometimes they need to be exercised a bit before they'll work :-)




she also has a slight tick so ill remove the rocker cover and see if a bucket has lifted but one of my knowledgeable mates said its just as good to put a single grub screw on each as a stalk down kit, anyone seen this?


I've seen it, yes.

Welcome abaord, by the way.

Cheers
DD
 
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:11 AM
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Doug has given you very good advice regarding the windscreen and any surrounding rust areas. This is one of the few areas prone to rust on the Series III, the others being the front wings (fenders) around the headlamp buckets and the sills (rocker panels).

Rust that appears as bubbles should be dealt with as soon as possible as the area that typically rusts is around the bottom corners of the 'A' posts (A pillars) and can compromise the structural integrity of the roof. The rust is caused by poor sealing of the windscreen rubber (weatherstrip) as water is trapped in those two areas.

NBCat
 
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aussie_ser3 (02-23-2012)
  #4  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:54 PM
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i defiantly appreciate what you guys are saying about removing the windscreen. for now i just want to get it registered and driving, so want an easy fix to get me by for maybe 6 months until i have got her on the road. ide leave it and do it properly but for a road worthy it cant have visable rust, so might do the quick and easy for now by just carving all the rust out and converting it.

in the future i wouldn't mind cutting it all out and forming new patches for the windscreen and gaurds. i have a mig and a torch at my hands so that should be easy(ish).

someone was telling me a fibreglass patch would be as good as structural and wont re rust if its done correctly, just wondering if anyone has seen this?

also, is the windscreen typically easy or hard to DIY remove when compared to others? im tipping its probably a job for pros?

thanks allot,
regards jay
 
  #5  
Old 02-23-2012, 08:43 PM
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You can remove the windscreen yourself with the proper tools, but it may also break requiring you to spend the money on a replacement anyway. Probably best to have a glass specialist remove and later install the glass after the metalwork is complete.

I would recommend against any sort of glassfibre repair for the rusty areas. In my experience, it's best to just weld in a new piece of steel, being mindful of all the electrical and other parts near that area that don't like to be heated up!

NBCat
 
 
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