New Owner - 84 xj6

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Mar 28, 2023 | 10:03 PM
  #1  
So I went and got a 1984 XJ6 a couple days ago. Seller was the second owner, and has owned it since 1990. 135,000 miles, only about 10,000 since 2000. First time Jaguar/British car owner and I haven't really had a project car (intentional anyway) since high school - and that tended toward the 1960's GM variety. I'm of average mechanical ability/knowledge but have a brother-in-law who is much more advanced and totally on board to help do whatever. I bought this cheap (under $2k) with the stated purpose of selling down the road for a profit. That being said, I always loved XJ6's even as a kid in the 80's, so I can see myself wanting to hold onto this come hell or high water.

The Good:
  • Interior is practically like new. Seats are original and perfect, still has the original Jaguar sheepskin covers from the dealer. Headliner is new. Dash is solid (with some flaking/cracks here and there).
  • Gauges almost all work with the exception of the fuel gauge (see below). Trip computer didn't work at first, but after some messing about with wires my BIL got it to function. Time is correct, mileage is correct, fuel consumption is not (but, see above/below).
  • Body is solid and straight. Superficial rust in a couple places. Where the paint is good, it looks great.
  • Drove 80 miles home and 100 miles plus around town since with no issues. Starts easily, shifts smoothly, etc.
  • Radio turns on (again, after some messing with wires), power antenna goes up. Doesn't go back down on its own.
  • Air conditioning was supposedly updated in the last 15-20 years. We were able to get the compressor/clutch to function with more wiring fiddling - cycles on when activated but it doesn't blow cold air. Presumably needs to be recharged and any leaks identified.
The Bad:
  • Transmission leak. Was almost empty on purchase and seller said it leaked from the pan, but only after sitting for some time. I haven't had up in the air to get a good look. Some ATF on driveway after sitting but not a ton. I'll probably change the pan gasket, unless people think messing around in there will do more harm than good (I worked at an oil change place in high school and learned there that messing around with auto trans filters on cars with high mileage sometimes does more harm than good, I realize this isn't a universal view).
  • passenger's side fuel tank doesn't work per prior owner. He was vague about whether it had a confirmed leak vs. something else. I haven't tried adding fuel on the side and have stuck with driver's side thus far. There is a whining from one of the fuel pumps you can hear when the trunk/boot is open, but I assume this would be the pump for the "on" fuel tank? I suppose the best option is to add fuel to the "broken" tank and see what happens when we are able to take a closer look? Also the fuel gauge doesn't work, presumably this is all connected somehow?
  • Paint on the roof is heavily damaged/scratched. Prior owner said it was from a car cover. I'm not focused on it, since it's cosmetic, but if we get everything running as it should I will deal with it.
  • Rats apparently got in the engine compartment - as evidenced by the rat bait strewn throughout, and the decomposed rat carcass attached to a rat trap that we pulled out. Rats have chewed through the wire from the top of the brake fluid reservoir, which I assume is just a brake fluid level sensor and not something I'm terribly worried about.
  • Holes in the exhaust, makes it sound a bit louder/rougher than I suppose it should.
  • Wipers don't work. I assume more wires eaten by rats. We've had decent luck on finding/fixing wiring thus far, but that's more my BIL who has an eye for that stuff. A few of our "fixes" have literally just been fuses.
  • Radio turns on (see above), but no stations come in. Cassette player also doesn't play anything. I hear static through the speakers, which adjusts with volume knob so it seems to all be connected. Not a big deal but I'd like everything to eventually function as it was originally intended.
Anyway, I don't expect answer to all or even any of the above, just giving an idea as to the overall state. As a complete novice (but with access to a family member mechanic who knows what he's doing, just not with jaguars), what would you recommend I start on, look into? This car has literally sat for a long period with very little done to it, for better and for worse.

This won't be a daily, but I will drive it regularly since it really is a joy to drive, everything I'd hoped. I'd love to get performance close to original or surpassing to the extent possible. But I also understand reality, this car was cheaper than your average 200,000 mile rusty corolla that needs "transmission work".. some pics are below:






Reply 2
Mar 28, 2023 | 11:40 PM
  #2  
Looks a tidy car, especially for the price. If you have a solid body you have a great head start.

Most of the issues you describe sound pretty typical and are covered in threads you will find here , especially around fuel tanks

I don't envy you the combination of rodents and inherently persnickety (technical term) if poorly maintained, Jag wiring.

Good luck with your project , there is plenty of info here and some helpful people that can nudge us tinkerers in the right direction.
Reply 0
Mar 29, 2023 | 11:05 AM
  #3  
Hi, I too have a 1984 but I never heard of factory or original sheepskin seat covers.

there is only 1 fuel pump for both tanks.

antenna should come down when radio is turned off.

a photo of the radio will let us know if it is the original factory radio.

check the fuse for the wiper motor. Motor is hidden by the side of the battery.

Fuses fuses fuses, they oxidize in place, rotating fuses cures many issues.

Do you have the Owner's Handbook in the glovebox?

if not, download it free from my website:

https://jagupgrades.webstarts.com
Reply 0
Mar 29, 2023 | 11:34 AM
  #4  
Quote: Hi, I too have a 1984 but I never heard of factory or original sheepskin seat covers.

there is only 1 fuel pump for both tanks.

antenna should come down when radio is turned off.

a photo of the radio will let us know if it is the original factory radio.

check the fuse for the wiper motor. Motor is hidden by the side of the battery.

Fuses fuses fuses, they oxidize in place, rotating fuses cures many issues.

Do you have the Owner's Handbook in the glovebox?

if not, download it free from my website:

https://jagupgrades.webstarts.com
The seat covers have the Jaguar logo on them, I looked at the tags and I think it had what I assume to be the original US dealer. I assume they were some sort of dealer accessory. I'll check when I get home, maybe they were just some aftermarket cover purchased from a catalog, who knows. But something about them made me think they were from the original dealer, which I think had the same name as what was listed in the glovebox manuals/warranty info.

I assumed one fuel pump for each tank, but if there's just one I guess that's one less to worry about. I'll search the threads for info on diagnosing/fixing the other one. Like I say, the seller was kind of vague about what the issue was and I just assumed I'd be replacing the whole tank.

I was able to guide the antenna back down after turning off radio. Hopefully doing so didn't damage anything, but the antenna already had a slight bend, which may be part of the problem. You can see the radio in one of the interior photos above, I believe it's original.

Like you say, fuses seem to be the main issue with whatever wasn't working - trip computer, radio, etc. So all that has been an easy fix thus far.

Thanks for the input, and for the manual link. Like I said above, all of the original documentation appears to have come with it - along with the first few services from the original buyer. Unfortunately service records disappear after about 1990 or so (meaning the seller I bought from stopped keeping track, since that's about when he purchased it).
Reply 1
Mar 29, 2023 | 11:52 AM
  #5  
ok, yes that is the original radio, it raises and lowers the antenna automatically. It is a great sounding radio, I try to find them all the time, There is a guy in Orlando who can repair them.

If you are able to replace the mast with its cable, that is one way to fix it, or try to bend it straight.
There is a green relay in the spare tire compartment which is for the Antenna Delay and to raise and lower the antenna. Obviously the motor is good since it raised it. Those motors are gold. You might try opening the green relay and see if there's anything burned out.

The fuel tank switch has an imprinted "R" on its side to let you know which tank is being used. Right or Left. When these cars sit for a long time the fuel gauge stops indicating. Tapping the glass usually moves the needle. Otherwise the fuel tank Float Sender might need exercising, could be stuck in the "empty" position. I removed mine and lubricated its pivots with 3 in 1 oil. They rarely go bad, my 1965 S type has the same twin tank system and the float senders are still good, just need some lube.

The bad news, these tanks will corrode and leak. If yours are not leaking, then it must be the change over valve for each tank.

If you have the Owner's Handbook and all its documentation, that is gold too. Download the Factory Service Manual sections from my site too.

I also have Gregory Andrachuk's book about the Series 3 XJ-6 for free download. He posts here too.
The seat covers are most likely a dealer accessory.
Reply 0
Mar 29, 2023 | 12:17 PM
  #6  
Can’t swear to it but I think Jaguar offered sheepskin covers as an ‘official’ accessory. They were sold at the dealer level but carried a Jaguar accessory part number.

But the covers were all the rage back then do who knows where they might’ve come from.

I once bought a Jaguar fog light kit for a Series III. It was a full installation kit with Bosch lights. It was in Jaguar packing with a Jaguar part number. I think it was something for the USA market only.

Cheers
DD
Reply 0
Mar 29, 2023 | 05:21 PM
  #7  
Just to let you know that as a new owner of a Jaguar XJ6 from the Sir William Lyons stable, you are setting off on a journey that will have many high and low points. I sometimes think these cars were designed for guys that wanted a mistress but were too nervous about the wife finding out. ! They are beguilng cars, and I should know, having owned one for 14 years (1988-2002)

Nothing on your list is unfamiliar to me, but do be aware that you may need to spend quite some amount of money as you correct the faults. Also, with a lot of time having passed, what I found easy in terms of parts availability, is now not so easy. Just take tyres. When I needed new tyres, I just went down the local supplier and got a pair put on (205/70 VR15). Now these are hard to find, and always expensive. When I put in a new boot floor, rear valance, and quarter panels in the late 80s, I could get original Jaguar panels, and they weren't too expensive either.

I hope I haven't put you off too much ! These cars have an absolutely Magic Carpet ride that is now totally missing from modern cars. As I recall, Jaguar always tried to make the car's ride similar to up-market US cars like contemporary Cadillacs and Lincolns, but with better handling and braking.

Good luck with your mission !
Reply 2
Mar 29, 2023 | 07:54 PM
  #8  
My favorite colour too!!!! Racing green!!Welcome !!!
Reply 0
Mar 30, 2023 | 09:59 AM
  #9  
Congratulations on your new acquisition. This forum is a great resource for help and information.

Having to sort through fuel tank issues is pretty common on these Series 3 cars. Do you know if the right side tank is empty at the moment? With ignition on but engine not running, have you tried changing the switch on the dash to the right side tank to see if the gauge moves? If you think it's empty, then before adding any gas I would consider removing the right side taillight and then the fuel sender at the rear of the tank. You can get a look inside the tank with a flashlight to look for rust, debris. A cheap endoscope that works with your phone is helpful. Depending on condition, the tanks can be cleaned without necessarily removing them from the car by removing that rear sender and the drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Removing the tank completely is no walk in the park.

If there is gas in the right side tank but it hasn't been used in some time, I would drain/discard what's in there. There is one bolt that fits inside a larger removable drain plug on the bottom of the tank. You could remove just the smaller bolt to confirm if it's empty or not and have a container ready to collect it. Do a search for inline fuel filters also. Many owners insert a filter between each tank and the changeover valve (which is also before the pump).
Reply 1
Mar 30, 2023 | 10:11 AM
  #10  
Quote: ...They are beguiling cars, ...
Especially the "Beguiling" part!
And not just for the fellas either!
Incorrigible and Unrepentant Tomboy that I am, this car makes me feel like a Lady!
(';')
Reply 1
Mar 30, 2023 | 05:45 PM
  #11  
the car will deserve a new exhaust system.

1) the two over-the-axle pipes are stainless steel from the factory, they should be good.

2) eliminate the under-the-driver's-floor Y pipe with catalytic and replace it with the European cat-less Y pipe.

3) remove the main catalytic, (the one that connects to the manifolds), open it up, remove the bag of platinum and other toxic junk, re-seal it and pressure test it, then re-install it empty. The car will pass inspections without the catalytics, assuming you have annual smog inspections and you are not in California. You need to reinstall the main (but now empty) catalytic housing because of the Oxygen Sensor, you need to have the O2 sensor for the fuel injection system to work.

4) install a Ground Strap from the 02 sensor to the body, it will help with stabilizing idling in these old cars.

5) if the exhaust is completely rotted, SNG BARRAT USA store carries the Bell Exhaust LTD. systems for these cars. Bell Exhaust LTD. has the original blueprints for Jaguar exhausts.

6) NO WELDING, Jaguar never welded exhaust parts, they used Band Clamps and a sealant called "Firegum", not available in USA, but you can use Permatex Exhaust Sealant between pipes and muffler joints. Do not use " U" clamps, they "crimp" and distort the exhaust parts when fitted together making it impossible to separate them later when needed, Band Clamps only.

Good luck !





Reply 0
Mar 31, 2023 | 07:35 AM
  #12  
This one time, at band clamp……..

sorry, couldn’t resist!! 😁
Reply 0
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