It sounds like your injector loom is shot, but you could also have a problem in the resistor block. These looms don't last forever due to the heat. The loom plugs are also very poor items.

 

fix that wire pronto! you have nothing to lose! but don't use any hot soldering iron near the area, there must be fuel fumes which are explosive.

 

ill try to repair tomorrow just to see what happens. a permanent repair/wire and plug is on order. it will be a few days. if i get the currant wires temp repaired ill post what happens.. im going to go ahead and pull the rail/and injectors and see what happens as well .

 

is that the entire injector harness? also does anyone know why the omh test on the injecter showed readings all over the place?

 

v12s - Official Website has the entire harness but expensive...

even if you don't buy anything, visit the site and read the Fuel Injection Guide, it tells you to disconnect the battery and depressurize the fuel system...

 

anyone have a trick to get to the bolts that hold the injectors on?

 

I've never had to remove mine, no clue.

 

that page you suggested Jose said to cut the hoses,, but that if for sure your changing the injectors..

 

what should the ohms / resistance be on the series 3

 

well at least you have the right spirit, go for it! I can't be of much help in this issue because all I've ever done to mine in that area is replace a couple of leaking dried-out hoses at different times. (replaced with Autozone fuel hose, couple of dollars).

but whatever you do, disconnect the battery.

 

does anyone know what the fuel injector ohms are for the ser 3.. ?

 

got the new injectors today all ohm test at 2.5..guess a sign the old ones are bad since they all tested all over the map..ill post the results

 

This is all over the map diagnostics. Not the better way. but, I am guilty of it at times. It failed me on why I have a couple of dead electric boxes here!! Swapped the outlest and switch. N o go. House fuse OK?

So, here, if no spark at the plugs, jump battery + to coil plus and retry for spark. If there is and the car starts, the issue is somewhere between the switch and the coil. If no, then try the amp to coil -. Insert a test lamp in series.
Crank the engine, the lamp should blink on and off signifying the amp and relutor are doing their jobs. If no blink or no light at all, it is in the amp and/or dizzy. Gotta be assured of a good bright blue fat spark before anythoing else. Wimpy yellow not good enough.

And, once you get reliable spark to the plugs, each and every time, if the casr doesn't run, off to fuelig diagnosis. Caution, the ignition timing must be on the spot. HT wires off 180, mislocated, etc. Easy to do if the HT cables were changed.

Smoke at the coil is a symptom that must be checked out. Ballast resistor inf present. lousy connections, oil on the wires.

Now, if all done, prime the engine. Safest is a dram in each cylinder. A bit riskier is a shot of ether in the intake. If the engione fires for a short time, it's fuel delivery isn't there. Start with a fuel pressure guage at the rail.

At times, sticky injectors respond to a small whack with the handle of a screw driver.

But, a thin rod or mechanics stethoscope outta allow you to hear the injectors click as the engine is cranked. Even my ear can do that, if my aid is in, o'wise, uh, uh!

Keep plugging, the epiphany will come, vroooom.

Carl

 

still no start no change............

 

i tryed all you have suggested i think .. some of your terms are unknown to me ..sorry

 

So, To date here is everything that has been replaced on this car:

--Full tune-up bits
--Fuel pump/filter
--Coil
--Known working ECU, Injector Resistor Pack, and Red firewall relay
--Fuel injectors
--Fuel injector wiring harness
--Fuel pump relay



We have essentially tried every single test and procedure recommended and replaced everything with new parts or tested and working parts.

What else could possibly cause this issue? A bad ground somewhere? More bad wiring?

Where to go next?

 

There are probably more parts replaced that I'm not sure of, but if I can recall, if it's been a possibility, it's been replaced.

 

the only thing i didnt replace is the start relay but was advised probably not that.. i asked about the timing chain awhile ago,,but was advised to wait. im going to screw with the timing /chain and see iif its a remote possibility

 

Back to basics. An internal combustion engine needs the following to function. Air, fuel spark, compression, all at the right time and in the case of fuel, in the right amount.

So, the diagniostic path must be guided by these requirements.

1. If the engine has no compression, it is not likely to run. A wet and dry test can be very conclusive if properly executed. At this stage, almnost a gotta be.

2. As you changed the plug wires, were they replaced in the proper order? Easy to mess that up. Don't ask!

3. If you are certain of number two and the distributor is delivering a fat blue spark to the plugs, go to 4. A wimpy yellow will not do.

4. Prime the engine. Safest is to squirt a shot of gasoline into each cylinder and then crank. Or, a bit riskier, squirt ether (starting fluid) into the intake at the throttle, open, of course.

Report back, others will help.

I'm off to watch the Raider footbsll gme and later to see if the giasnts can put the tigers away again and take the World Series trophy home. I almost, but not quite, wish that the Tigers win this one and that the giants can do the job in front of the home fans aty ATT in SF.

Carl

 

nice blue spark that shocked me pretty good... and checked wires a few times before I took out all plugs cleaned and re-gaped and put gas in each cylinder to which when cranked wanted to start. I also shot starting fluid into intake and same wanted to start.