replaced ecu,resister pack and diode.
1.1st did reister pack ,,, nothing

2.then did diode. nothing

3. then did ecu and nothing

checked injectors and now I do have a blinking light when cracked but still nothing like before not even a almost start
all were warrantied.. in working order from a good supply source

 

is it possible for the neg post were you tighten the nuts be bad???
my son did away with that little ballast thing thing lie Jose said.. but i think he over tightened it and the nuts wont tighten like they should ..its tight but like the nut was crosstreaded and it only snug.. could that have damaged the neg post screw therefore make for a no start. just a idea cuz im out of ideas

 

do you mean the nuts and post on the Coil?

obviously not an issue of the ECU. those rarely go bad.

another dumb question, but does the engine turn when you crank the ignition switch?

A) have you double checked the Inertia Fuel Cutoff switch?
is the button on top of the IFCS springy when you press it down? (in other words, it does not click when pressed). (think of it as a "Reset" button).
This switch can disable the car totally. Check it again and again.

B) if the fuel pump was replaced, can you hear it whirring with the shifter in 1st gear and turning the ignition switch to START?

C) no gasoline leaking anywhere?

 

yes to nuts on the neg post of coil

yes it cranks

the fuel pump whirls

no gas leak

but the IFCS is not springy.. i checked it alot but only by pulling it up to show red..it was not up in the red area.. if you pull it up no spring and it just falls down when touched and no click at all

 

how does it work.. should it be down when in safe mode and up showing red when its not in safe mode.. if i pull it up to show red the fuel doenst flow.. i dont feel a spring but if you pull it up it stays red until you touch it and it falls back down.. im thinking its working ok by this ..or im i wrong

 

the IFCS tripps (like a house breaker), if the car flips or during a heavy crash.

Red up means tripped. It should "click" when you press it down if in Red, meaning it has reset, like a reset button in a vacuum cleaner when it overheats?

don't know what to tell you, the only way would be for someone to press it down to see if there is fuel flow to the engine, OR, if you have already verified there IS fuel flow to the engine, then it must be ok, not tripped.

sometimes it's the silly things that disable a car, I'm just looking for the not-so-obvious.

is the coil post moving when you tighten the nut?

 

the coil post doesnt move just wondered.. the only thing i havent changed is the start relay......what about the timing chain or belt///wouldnt i get the same thing

 

try to re-thread the post, shouldn't be too difficult. the only way to really test the start relay is by substitution. Leave the timing chain/belt alone for now.

 

when i press it down............does it only shut off fuel like a plunger. or is there a electrical thing that wont let it start

 

anyone have a diagram of the pins that go into the afm

 

when you press it down, it allows the fuel pump to pump and pressurize the fuel system, it works electrically by shutting the fuel pump off, so when it tripps, there's no fuel pressure.

 

you mean the serial plug ?

 

the start ifcs

 

If there's any doubt about the inertia switch just unplug the wires and join 'em together.

Cheers
DD

 

what do you mean by join together.........also if the switch is faulty wouldn't it shut fuel down

 

Use a jumper wire or whatever to join them together, bypassing the switch to get it out of the picture, although........



Yes, and as I recall you DO have fuel pressure....so one way or another the fuel pump is working.

Cheers
DD

 

The diagrams from the S57 Electrical Guide (which I think you have and are on the Captain Jaguar electrical reference page) show the terminal numbers and wire colrs. That's probably as good as it gets


Cheers
DD

 

just a thought,, but since now the noid light flickers when cranked is it possible all the injectors crapped out or most

 

At this point I'm willing to say anything is possible. You could pull the fuel rail with injectors attached and actually see if they squirt fuel

Cheers
DD

 

Now 158 posts on this thread ! Don't you think a purchase of the Series 3 Workshop Manual might be a good idea !