I see the lines going to the canister- They are in excellent condition. Event the connectors in the trunk- excellent. All I can think is its the canister itself.

 

try to remove it and vacuum pressure test it. Harbor Freight Tools has a nice vacuum hand pump kit for $18.

 

I did this job on my XJS, it has a similar canister, but only one. The canister itself was pristine, looked brand new as best I could tell. The hoses looked OK, but after nearly 40 years who knows. It was a difficult job. My XJS is a coupe and access to the can is from the trunk. Lots of fiddling and getting the bolts back in was the hardest. If you're gonna go to the trouble to pull the can I'd replace the hoses.

I did every hose in my XJS trunk (and under car and engine bay) and there's a lot of them in the trunk alone, 3 or 4 with crimped on hoses - did those, too. It better not smell when I get the engine back and start driving.

Ben

 

If you were to label/ number the three lines going to the small flask, Then clamp off two of the lines, test with the vacuum pump. The gauge should not hold vacuum if you do have a leak. You could also try, Seeing as how the left is a mirror of the right, passing over with a vacuum hose and "T" into the mirror of the other side's hose. Then see if the odor is gone in time.

Thank you.

Larry Louton

 

The hoses might look good but fuel can permeate right through the old rubber hoses. A UK-based guide to fuel hose specifications at the foot of the page here: Fuel Hose Selection, Pipe Grading (Why R9), Connections &amp Clipping

I replaced all fuel hoses in the trunk with CODAN brand SAE J30 R9 fuel hose. No more fuel smells. The table in the link shows how much fuel can permeate through rubber hose. I have no commercial interest in any of this, just keeping my old Jag going.

 

One of the best moves I've made was going to marine grade fuel hose. Look for spec J1527 A1-10 or J1527 A1-15. This is an "Ultra Low Permeability" standard. Fuel odors in boot 99% eliminated. I had been using automotive grade "fuel injection hose" (can't remember which spec exactly) and the odor was noticeable.

Cheers
DD

 

for the engine side too?

 

I used a 'combustible gas detector' (eBay) to see which hoses to change. It beeped quickly with the sniffer pressed against each hose. This result has now been eliminated.

I had to change nearly all rubber hoses in the trunk including the ones near the trunk lid hinges going to the C pillars.

And changed most in the engine bay including fuel rail hoses and the one to the cold start injector etc etc.

 

I used it on the pressure side of the system, yes. I can't remember the rating but it was high enough to satisfy me that it would hold up OK.

Have not used it in the engine bay....yet. It would probably work well but I haven't actually checked the temp rating.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi All,
So I pulled the gas cap and found that when I replaced the tank I neglected to put in the o-ring around the filler neck- that's for starters. The steel lines going into the canister as well as the lines in the trunk are all in excellent condition but will need to pressure test. Going to do this after I drive it to make sure it wasn't the filler neck wafting fumes up the fender and into the cabin.