Once you have it extracted, how low can you go in dismantling the Series 2 Blower Fan units? Can they be stripped down to the components and serviced or in the sealed unit sealed and that is as far as one can go?

 

Yes, I did that as the very first project after I got the car, because the fans were very noisy and the flaps leaked cold air on my feet.

I took Everything apart, even the motors and lubed the shafts. I did have a Lot of fun getting them out of the car though, but we found a Series 3 at the wrecking yard that fall and I practiced on it.
(';')

 

Cool~ is there a 'trick' to opening the sealed unit and getting at the insides? getting them out is a mission.

i set out to change a bulb on the dash and ended up removing the dash and everything in it .. easy distraction to engage in

 

if they are the same blower cases as in the Series 3. they can be opened by unscrewing the top of the case. Vacuum the dirt off everything inside, replace the flap foam seals, replace any broken pins connecting the rods, and close them.

for the flaps foam seal material, the crafts store Michael's have self sticking foam sheets of the right thickness.

the plastic pins can still be found but there are many of those pins used behind the rear seat Back that you can "borrow" while you find new ones.

the vacuum actuators are the same as the one used in the center vent located above the dash.

 

And, when you go to reinstall it (them), securely tape the flexible duct TO THE FAN FIRST! and them work it up over the steering column, secure the fan to the body (it goes in about as easily as it came out).

Then use a right-angle pick, such as available in sets from Harbor Freight to make sure the flexible duct is properly seated on the matrix, If it's not properly seated it will be blowing cold ambient air onto your knees.

There is no need to tape the duct to the matrix. It fits very well and snugly.

Passenger side is a breeze by comparison.
(';')

 

Looking at what is said above my only puzzle is that these blowers boxes don't seem to have a flap at the bottom only the one at the top and seem to be an otherwise sealed unit. Maybe these are older one put in a Series 2 to replace damaged newer ones in the past? I'll have another go at opening them today.

 

The flap on the bottom is loaded with a heavy spring to keep it closed.

As a picture is worth 1000 words I'll include a couple:

This is the flap in Recirculation mode.


This is Fresh Air mode, with the Outer Top flap open and the Bottom flap closed.

Be careful when pulling on the bottom flap as the linkages are very delicate and brittle after all these decades.
(';')

 

Huh, ok yes. My fan thing is a very different more of a WW2-era steel bunker design. The wires are only two, green and black, so I assume that it is only a single-speed device. no flap at base, just one on top on this one. it shaped like a old hair dryer or the millennium falcon...

 

Well no wonder we didn't understand each other!! We have 2 different fan configurations!
There ARE only 2 wires. Fan speeds come from the fan relay, the relay driven by the amplifier.

But back to your original question:
Under the oval 'rubber' seal at the top are 2 small sheet metal screws. These are the only solid connection between the fan housing and the box. You'll probably need to peel back the seal to find them.

After removing these screws, the two items are sort of Glued together and sealed with a sort of mastic all around.
Gently pry this off and there you have your fan motor.
(';')

 

Can not recall which of my older cars had a very noisy heater fan. very simple electric motor powering a squirrel cage blower. Sealed bearing on one end of the motor. I drilled a tiny hole in it and introduced "sewing machine oil" Moved it by hand a few times as I added oil. it became smoother and smother. Applied power. Great air flow and no screech... Must have been my 47 Ford. but possibly the 41 Studebaker champion. My earlier cars had no heaters with fan driven air!!! /