Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to look at this first and for most. So my XJ6 is currently not starting for what I fear to be a fuel line and or fuel pressure issue, I have gotten it to start but then it wants to die unless I press the gas. Once I let it go the car shuts off I drove it over 200 miles when I picked it up. When I check under the hood of the car I can smell gas, that was when I was able to get it to run of course. I do notice evidence of fuel leaking from the hose lines, I do need a cold start injector but I didn't have one when it ran before. I don't have the $300+ for a new one, I am currently in a situation where I just need this car to be able to run when it needs to be moved. What I would like to know of is how I can diagnose and fix the problem myself, and as inexpensively as possible so the it can at least start and run a few miles?

I will fix it up, but you know how life likes to give you it's opinion on your plans. This car has just been sitting for a extensive amount of years would be a great restore, but if you don't know about Northern Arizona and it's pack rats. Well I will tell you that's these creatures that are infamous for damaging car engines may have had some moments in this cars engine. It does have it's share of issue, each will be solved in time. I can provide pictures soon

 

 

Do you hear the fuel pump running? Try a new fuel filter. If the car sat...the fuel tanks may have rusted.

 

If you are certain, or as close as one can be, go to David Boger at everydayxj for a better deal on a NOS or known good used unit. good guy, posts here. but a location in the Carolina's has his attention !!!

Carl

 

Thank you for your reply, that is good advice I was able to tow the car to my new house, where I now have time and space to work on the car. I will start on the hoses like you suggested and get to looking through the how to sticky thread. Apologies for the delayed response life strikes again.

 

It has had a new fuel pump installed because that was the first problem it had. Is it possible for the fuel pump to go bad again in a 5 month time frame if it was sitting often? I will look into the fuel filter as well, going to start with what ever is the easiest first.

I honestly thought that this post didn't go through and only came back online thinking I was just going to rewrite this post, I appreciate the time you took to read this again.

 

Thank you for your reply, that is good advice I was able to tow the car to my new house, where I now have time and space to work on the car. I did get a cold start injector from that junk yard but not sure if it's any good, either way can it just stay where it is or should I remove and fill it with what it was filled with previously?

I will start on the hoses like you suggested and get to looking through the how to sticky thread. Apologies for the delayed response life strikes again.

 

Thank you for the tip, sorry but what does "NOS" stand for?

 

Hi, "NOS" stands for "new old stock". Basically a brand new, never installed part that has been kept on the shelf for years ( sometimes MANY ) since being made. Example "new" fuel pump made in 1982 NIB ( New in Box ), but never used.
On the subject of replacing fuel hoses, make sure to use fuel "injection" hose vs fuel "line" hose. It's more expensive ( handles much higher pressure ) but worth the extra peace of mind ( no fireballs from under the hood ). I would have to check my manual for the specs to see if the regular fuel "line" hose is technically good enough for the XJ fuel injection system pressure ( forum experts please chip in ! ) but have always made it a habit to use the better hose on any fuel injection system vs older carburetor systems.

Good luck with your new ride !
Also if you haven't already, buy a Haynes manual ( used amazon / ebay ) as well as download / print a copy of the factory service & parts manuals available here and else

 

the cold atart injector is not the problem, the engine will start without it, just takes a few more cranks.

instead, check the Fuel Cutoff switch in the passenger side, below the corner of the dash. Press the button on top of this switch to check if it is "tripped".
If it is tripped, you will feel a "click" when pressing the button. Then try cranking the engine again.

Add fresh fuel to the tanks. 2 gallons to each tank. Try again.

Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Pressurize the fuel system by putting the shifter in First gear ( 1 ). or Drive ( D ), then holding the ignition switch in the START position for 5 seconds. Do this 4 or 5 times with the shifter in 1 or D.
You should hear the fuel pump whirring or humming everytime you hold the ignition switch in the START position. Then try to crank the engine. It should start.

 

Jose's approach would certainly give you a 'quick and dirty' indication of the fuel pump function, but you are limited to listening for it while you sit in the driver's seat.

Alternatively, you could prop open the air flap in the AFM with the key on 'run' and have a leisurely look in the boot and engine bay. Assuming that the pump is running, you could hook up a pressure gauge {a free loan from Autozone) to the fitting on the fuel rail where the cold start injector connects and see what your fuel pressure is

There is a series of videos posted on Youtube from a guy called 'xj jesse'.that cover the pump and filters and are pretty informative.

 

Right.

The fuel pump, assuming it's healthy, is capable of producing 75-100 psi...but this is regulated down to about 36 psi. But, even 36 psi is probably beyond the rated of standard hose. If the regulator failed and allowed full pressure it it virtually certain that standard hose would burst. So, the correct and safest path is to use 'fuel injection' hose for everything downstream of the pump.

Fuel supply hoses from the tanks to the pump are not subject to pressure so 'carburetor' rated hose can be used. Standard hose can also be for the vapor/vent portions of the system and at the return valves behind the rear wheels

Cheers
DD

 

if the pump hums with every turn of the ignition switch, and slowly stops humming, chances are it is good.

the smell of gasoline could be the charcoal cannister getting flooded with liquid fuel, assuming nothing else is leaking.

check the Grounds Loom at the top rear of the cylinder head, a group of ground wires bolted to the top of the cylinder head
at the rear end of the cylinder head.

 

I appreciate your advice so I'm confident about the fuel pump since it was changed before, but anything is possible right. I did remove the fuel hose rail along with the fuel injectors. I went to NAPA auto parts for fuel injection specific hoses and gaskets as well. I had to special order the rubber gaskets that go in between the fuel injector and engine block Part # EAC4403. I found the part numbers and instruction at the web site
Jaguar XJ6 SIII injector replacement

I have yet to put everything together yet, I don't have the money currently to buy new fuel injectors or even have the old ones restored or cleaned. I do need to get this car started within the next few days of me writing this. Life is throwing me some monkey wrenches yet again.

Good news I may be able to get video on youtube in the next day or so, I have a youtube channel called SilentDFilms: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPE...-jl7fjGEBTJg4w

 

I'm glad you suggested this because it was something I heard to do, so this means a good sign to me. I have to ask about my electrical wiring situation, before I put my fuel rail back together.

Majority of my XJ6's dashboard is not functioning at all. This does include the gas gauges that inform me of how low and high the fuel is, and as well as informing me of which tank I am using. The speedometer doesn't move, along with the radio, A/C (air in general), head lights, and windows (Pack rats in Northeren AZ ).

Do you think I should put anytime into looking at this bad wiring? Even the electrical connectors that plug into the fuel injectors look a bit rough. I will have video posted soon I just need to get a bigger SD card for my camera

One more thing when you said " Check the Ground Loom on Cylinder Head" could you specify a bit more on that? Apologies if that's a bit much to ask

 

Electrical gremlins are a big problem in these cars. Anyplace you see a wire or bunch of wires screwed or bolted to a metal part, that is a grounding point. Take it apart, use sandpaper on all the parts until they are shiny metal and put it back together. There are dozens of these throughout the car. Start on the engine bay, then when you get a spare minute do some more. Good idea and not very expensive to replace all the fuses. Then look for other electrical connections and clean them (probably hundreds of them). It's an ongoing process, doesn't cost hardly anything, and will make your car run better and all the electrical items work correctly.

Jeff

 

on the top rear of the cylinder head, intake / battery side, there is a group of wires attached to the top of the cylinder head with a bolt. Check to see they are ok. Those are Grounds, and if you follow them down, they end up at a Rubber Plug. Grab both sides of the the plug with both hands and twist it as you press it in to help it revive the contacts.

The fuel hoses that usually deteriorate and leak first, causing a gasoline smell in the engine compartment, are the six hoses connected to the fuel rail, one going to each injector. Make sure they are not cracked / dried out. In the past I got decent replacements at Autozone. They are still ok.

If nothing works in the dash, start checking Fuses, remove them and check them one by one. If the headlights so not come on, check the Fuses at the small fusebox in the engine compartment next to the coolant fill tank. There are 5 fuses there, one for each headlight and one for the auxiliary Fan under the front bumper. The Brass contacts oxidize and stop conducting. Clean the contacts with emery paper, but disconnect the Battery FIRST. Also Gently press the fuse holders together so that the fuse is held tight.Do not over-press.

Chances are that is the problem with the headlights not coming on, it is a typical problem with these cars.

 

Thank you I will begin looking at that electrical wiring after I send this messages. I did post the video here is the youtube link:
I have checked the fuses in the car I checked the ones for what I believe went to the window relay and the other round fuse that looked like it should go to the head lights. I basically went around the car and switched all the fuses that looked similar to check if I needed to replace the fuse or not. Majority of my fuse swapping resulted in me realizing that, my electrical problem wasn't the fuses, but I have not put a serious amount of time in checking the grounds. The video is no more than 5 mins less actually. Now reading this I'm thinking of how I could have made the video better.

I'm going to go forward with reassembling the fuel rail and hoses today most likely to see if it starts, first have to find my keys for the car

 

Jeff is on point as to connections.

1. One more. Get down and under. On the ight side. Look for a braided cable fropm the chassis to the point where the engine and transmission are joined. remove it. clean and tighten as described before.

2.. Look at the "scuttles". The part on each side of the console l above the knees.. A door on each. A coin releases the latch. fuse holders are revealed. The underside of the cover reveals the legend for each.

3. Old fuses may look good but be "open" inside. Check each for continuity.


4. At times, merely rolling the fuse in it's cradle restores the circuit.

5. Seek and down load Dr. Andrachuk's Jagcare II

6. Seek and down load Jaguar schematic S57

7. Read the two manuals that came with the car when new. If they are not with your car, seek them, Ebay??

8. I found Haynes to be more confusing than helpful..

Getting things to work is pleasing.

And, aye, I'm well aware of that life thing...

Carl . .

 

Dr. A's book is in the third edition. Look for Jagcare III. I think it is available on that other Jaguar site. Swapping out fuses is not recommended, many are the same physical size but different amperages. Fuses are cheap, go to NAPA and get the assorted box, read the chart Carl mentioned on the removable lid and install new ones of the right amperage . Much easier in your garage on a Saturday afternoon than on the side of the road on a rainy night.