Rebuilding a Series 1 rear end
#21
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Tis, isn't it!! So much easier and satisfying to work on clean parts. Way back when, we T and A kids got our engines clean and painted. Only an industrial grey available at the time. And got them leak free with judicious use of Permatex!
Well, I chickened out at the task of changing the weeping calipers in the IRS of my
S3. But, the ones I got from Rock Auto looked just spiffy!!
My present one cylinder projects are clean!!
Carl
Well, I chickened out at the task of changing the weeping calipers in the IRS of my
S3. But, the ones I got from Rock Auto looked just spiffy!!
My present one cylinder projects are clean!!
Carl
#22
Don't worry I am on a budget, just might have overstepped it a bit. I will be needing to bank plenty of brownie points to get back in credit.
SWMBO wanted me to make sure that everyone knew the budget was busted and she was not happy. 😬😬😬
#23
replacing calipers
Pretty Springs!!
Mine aren't so pretty as yours, and they may not be of as high quality, but they'll certainly be better than the 38 year old springs currently in the car.
Husband discovered last night my right rear wheel bearing is a bit hinky. My IRS rebuild may have to be done this coming Winter whether I like it or not. We already have all the front end parts on hand, time to lay in the rear parts.
You're doing Very nice work. It's a pleasure to watch.
(';')
Mine aren't so pretty as yours, and they may not be of as high quality, but they'll certainly be better than the 38 year old springs currently in the car.
Husband discovered last night my right rear wheel bearing is a bit hinky. My IRS rebuild may have to be done this coming Winter whether I like it or not. We already have all the front end parts on hand, time to lay in the rear parts.
You're doing Very nice work. It's a pleasure to watch.
(';')
Thanks for watching. Hopefully it will provide good reference for others undertaking what appears to be a daunting task.
It is my first rear-end rebuild so thought I would do it as best I could. Already thinking I should have replaced the calipers with new alloy, 4 pot calipers rather than rebuild them. But I have decided that can wait until I rebuild the next one (budget and wife constraints notwithstanding). Have already picked out the replacement calipers if and when it happens.
Last edited by philg64; 09-19-2014 at 03:26 PM. Reason: just explain with a bit more detail
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LnrB (09-19-2014)
#24
Couldn't agree more Carl but it seems that there are only two methods for this to occur;
1. Lots of cleaning solutions and elbow grease on re-used parts and,
2. Lots of money on new parts.
:-)
1. Lots of cleaning solutions and elbow grease on re-used parts and,
2. Lots of money on new parts.
:-)
#27
Finished the Astra
He just happened to be in the neighborhood (well I knew the job was a pain so asked him to come and stay for the weekend and do his magic). The in-laws live a couple of hours drive away so not close enough to become a permanents fixture .
They are leaving in the a.m. so hopefully I will get the handbrake calipers all back together tomorrow as the parts I ordered from Jagdaim on Thursday arrived Friday. Specifically I needed new "Adjusting bolts" and "Adjusting Nuts" and "Retraction Fork Locktabs".
Time will tell.....
#28
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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#29
Handbrake Caliper Rebuild
Managed a few hours up in the shed....BONUS!!! Handbrake calipers rebuilt.
As can be seen the final rebuild of the calipers had some refurbished bits some new bits and some used bits.
As can be seen the adjuster bolts definitely need replacement, the adjuster nuts may have been okay.
I did find out that you should probably remember how you pull the handbrakes apart when trying to put them back together again. I used 3 references and still made some rookie mistakes.
1. make sure you put the correct length anchor pin for the return spring..otherwise you have to struggle for to get the other end of the spring located and then when you finally get it in and look at the other anchor pin and realise it is too long. You then have to unhook the spring, remove the pad from the carrier and then put the correct anchor pin in and then rehook the spring. PAINFUL
2. The main gold coloured body has a rotating block that you must ensure has the hole facing the adjusting nut hole, otherwise you have to pull it all apart again to rotate it so the adjusting bolt can actually mate with the adjusting nut. PAINFUL
I am sure there was more I should write here, but I am about to go and cook some dinner and have a nice red wine....
As can be seen the final rebuild of the calipers had some refurbished bits some new bits and some used bits.
As can be seen the adjuster bolts definitely need replacement, the adjuster nuts may have been okay.
I did find out that you should probably remember how you pull the handbrakes apart when trying to put them back together again. I used 3 references and still made some rookie mistakes.
1. make sure you put the correct length anchor pin for the return spring..otherwise you have to struggle for to get the other end of the spring located and then when you finally get it in and look at the other anchor pin and realise it is too long. You then have to unhook the spring, remove the pad from the carrier and then put the correct anchor pin in and then rehook the spring. PAINFUL
2. The main gold coloured body has a rotating block that you must ensure has the hole facing the adjusting nut hole, otherwise you have to pull it all apart again to rotate it so the adjusting bolt can actually mate with the adjusting nut. PAINFUL
I am sure there was more I should write here, but I am about to go and cook some dinner and have a nice red wine....
Last edited by philg64; 09-21-2014 at 04:11 AM.
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LnrB (09-21-2014)
#30
Nothing happening
Well, nothing has happened over the last 2 weeks in the rear-end rebuild stakes..have taken a sabattical (sort of) ....i.e. have been laying timber floors at home for the last two weekends so no time for the rear end
Attached is an off-topic pic that is keeping me away from the Oil Beast, I am so not happy.....apart from the fact that laying the timber ourselves has probably saved us $5k and thus the rear-end budget blow-out is not seen as as bad as it is
hopefully more to report on the rear-end in the coming weeks ...
Attached is an off-topic pic that is keeping me away from the Oil Beast, I am so not happy.....apart from the fact that laying the timber ourselves has probably saved us $5k and thus the rear-end budget blow-out is not seen as as bad as it is
hopefully more to report on the rear-end in the coming weeks ...
#31
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Posts: 28,379
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#32
Finished my Series 1 rebuild - nice Dana 44 cover
Installed Dana 44 2:88 LSD and pretty cover that no one else can see!
Just spent about two weeks installing a above ground spa hooked up to swimming pool heater and filter... saved $2900.00 install and will use the
savings for future EFI for the Jaguar!
Just spent about two weeks installing a above ground spa hooked up to swimming pool heater and filter... saved $2900.00 install and will use the
savings for future EFI for the Jaguar!
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AntMan (10-15-2021)
#33
A little progress and some gratuitous photos
It has been a while but I have found some time to do a little bit of work on the rear-end.
1. cleaning accumulated gunk from the hub carriers (still need to pull down and rebuild with new bearings etc.)
2. stripping and painting the rear wishbones (needle bearings on order)
Apart from that not much has happened, car had and passed its annual rego check on Saturday, so is once again fully registered and insured for another 12 months. During the process the inspector note, "little if any movement in the front end componentry". A good feeling as I rebuilt that probably 9 years ago (early on in my ownership of the Oil Beast) and has had little attention since.
Mind you he did also mention a "few" oil leaks.
The other photos included today are";
1. the engine I plan on rebuilding and installing
2. the remaining components that need to be rebuilt/refurbished
3. and 4. the Oil Beast
5. and 6. the interior (I have new headrest foam - just have to get it done)
7. the engine bay
8. the shed where it all happens
Hopefully I can get some more done before Christmas
cheers for now
1. cleaning accumulated gunk from the hub carriers (still need to pull down and rebuild with new bearings etc.)
2. stripping and painting the rear wishbones (needle bearings on order)
Apart from that not much has happened, car had and passed its annual rego check on Saturday, so is once again fully registered and insured for another 12 months. During the process the inspector note, "little if any movement in the front end componentry". A good feeling as I rebuilt that probably 9 years ago (early on in my ownership of the Oil Beast) and has had little attention since.
Mind you he did also mention a "few" oil leaks.
The other photos included today are";
1. the engine I plan on rebuilding and installing
2. the remaining components that need to be rebuilt/refurbished
3. and 4. the Oil Beast
5. and 6. the interior (I have new headrest foam - just have to get it done)
7. the engine bay
8. the shed where it all happens
Hopefully I can get some more done before Christmas
cheers for now
#34
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
Posts: 28,379
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You have a shed and a hoist! Two things I don't have the luxury of at home, just a double garage attached to the house.
Forgot you southerners have to have your car checked every year(6 months in NSW). I bought a car in 1997 with a RWC, the next one it got was when I sold it 8 weeks ago. Just drive it till it stops in Qld.
Love the triple SU's on your donor motor. And the little "Triple J" on your rear screen.
Keep us informed of the progress.
Forgot you southerners have to have your car checked every year(6 months in NSW). I bought a car in 1997 with a RWC, the next one it got was when I sold it 8 weeks ago. Just drive it till it stops in Qld.
Love the triple SU's on your donor motor. And the little "Triple J" on your rear screen.
Keep us informed of the progress.
Last edited by o1xjr; 11-25-2014 at 04:58 AM.
#35
Needle bearings removed and replaced
Used the vice and socket method for bearing removal, In order;
1. how the bearings looked with paint overspray. Kept the bearings in when spraying so paint overspray didnt get into bearing bed.
2. using a socket of the same diameter as the bearing on one side and a socket larger than the bearing diameter allows the bearings to be pushed out when you close the vice.
3.the short socket doesnt push the 2nd bearing all the way out. I used a shorter socket to start with as it is a bit tricky lining everything up by yourself and then closing the vice.
4. used a longer socket to push the second bearing out fully
5. new bearing - funny thing I noted was the Made in USA yet I purchased and had it shipped to Australia from SNG Barratt in the UK (with a whole bunch of other stuff).
6. Jaguar part # C17167 = Koyo B-146
7. relatively easy to position the bearing and close the vice allowing the bearing to slide home quite easily. I used mild steel covers on the vice jaws to avoid damage to the bearing.
8. both bearings installed and jaws tightened.
9. job done (the other 3 sets removed and installed the same way.
One more job put of the way .
1. how the bearings looked with paint overspray. Kept the bearings in when spraying so paint overspray didnt get into bearing bed.
2. using a socket of the same diameter as the bearing on one side and a socket larger than the bearing diameter allows the bearings to be pushed out when you close the vice.
3.the short socket doesnt push the 2nd bearing all the way out. I used a shorter socket to start with as it is a bit tricky lining everything up by yourself and then closing the vice.
4. used a longer socket to push the second bearing out fully
5. new bearing - funny thing I noted was the Made in USA yet I purchased and had it shipped to Australia from SNG Barratt in the UK (with a whole bunch of other stuff).
6. Jaguar part # C17167 = Koyo B-146
7. relatively easy to position the bearing and close the vice allowing the bearing to slide home quite easily. I used mild steel covers on the vice jaws to avoid damage to the bearing.
8. both bearings installed and jaws tightened.
9. job done (the other 3 sets removed and installed the same way.
One more job put of the way .
#36
New Vice
Anyone following this thread might remember in September I broke my vice...well today I bought a new one so I could do what I did in the previous post i.e. remove the needle bearings from the rear wishbones and insert the new ones.
In the end I bought a larger vice with a swivel base...gives me a bit more flexibility and allowed me to rest the wishbone on the workbench while I aligned the sockets and bearings.
Photos;
1. old broken vice
2 and 3. new vice
4. showing the vice being swivelled to take the weight of the wishbone on the work bench. This helped a great deal.
In the end I bought a larger vice with a swivel base...gives me a bit more flexibility and allowed me to rest the wishbone on the workbench while I aligned the sockets and bearings.
Photos;
1. old broken vice
2 and 3. new vice
4. showing the vice being swivelled to take the weight of the wishbone on the work bench. This helped a great deal.
#37
Thoughts re polyurethane bushes v rubber bushes
A few months back I purchased new GAZ shocks for my rebuild, prior to that I purchased a set of polyurethane bushes to replace the existing rubbers bushes on the original shocks.
As you can see the GAZ springs came complete with metallastic rubber bushes.
So..my dilemma is - do I replace the rubber with the polyurethane bushes or will it be a waste of time and effort?
Would be appreciated if anyone has had the same dilemma and what did you do and why?
Phil
As you can see the GAZ springs came complete with metallastic rubber bushes.
So..my dilemma is - do I replace the rubber with the polyurethane bushes or will it be a waste of time and effort?
Would be appreciated if anyone has had the same dilemma and what did you do and why?
Phil
#38
Guess you ordered before I posted this yesterday:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...umbers-131981/
Having dragged out my old vise bought 40'ish years ago, I was very pleased while cleaning
it to note that it was marked "Made in England". It was paid for on a student budget,
but I expect that a comparable replacement today would not be in the budget
category even accounting for inflation. Same for all the tools of the same era.
ps. another way of protecting small bores while painting is to wipe a film of petroleum jelly
on the bore surface, spray, and wipe clean.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...umbers-131981/
Having dragged out my old vise bought 40'ish years ago, I was very pleased while cleaning
it to note that it was marked "Made in England". It was paid for on a student budget,
but I expect that a comparable replacement today would not be in the budget
category even accounting for inflation. Same for all the tools of the same era.
ps. another way of protecting small bores while painting is to wipe a film of petroleum jelly
on the bore surface, spray, and wipe clean.
Last edited by plums; 11-30-2014 at 04:40 AM.
#39
#40