The clearcoat on the wood fascia of my dashboard is all cracked and lifting. I am going to attempt to repair same. Home Depot sells a product to remove paint and epoxy from wood. As per the instructions, it does not damage the wood. If it does, I will replace the veneer.
I tried Alyn's method of using an iron to heat the clearcoat to no avail.
I tried a heat gun but it is too slow and not very effective.
If all fails, it is off to Saul at British Autowood.

shows area where I started to remove the clearcoat

 

I have done this before on one of my Jags. In that instance I replaced the veneer. On this one I am trying to save the veneer.

 

A while ago I used to do a lot of furniture refinishing. I would say that if a heat gun didn't remove it, then the chances a chemical will are slim. I was going to suggest simply re-veneering but you've done that before.

 

I have been to Saul's shop and was amazed at the quality he does. He uses a fire oven to cure the finish. I asked him what if the wood burns? and he started laughing. It's a secret he said. Well, you should see the wood in his Jaguar 340 and Jaguar 420. It's like if it was behind glass.

 

I would strongly discourage any use of heat guns until you have tried a gel paint stripper. You want the strongest, nastiest one you can find (nothing "green" or water based or anything like that). They used to sell one in Canada called "Suppa Stripper" that was very good. 3M make a good one too I think. Gloves? yes--the stuff will eat through skin.

Just leave that nasty gel on the wood for an hour and very carefully scrape it off with a credit card or plastic tool. Never use a metal scraper.

Clean it with paint thinner. Then a light sanding and many, many coats of high gloss polyurethane. Many of my passengers ask me if my S1 dash is brand new.

 

@ Jose: Where is Saul located? Phone #?

 

@ Adrian L: I purchased a Paint and Epoxy Remover made by Jasco.
I applied the remover and left it for about an hour. Nothing happened. I applied the same remover on a piece of fiberglass with a gel coating and within 15 minutes the gel coat lifted off the fiberglass.
I went with my heat gun set at low temperature, and lo and behold the epoxy resin on the dashboard started to pop. I then just had to scrape the popped resin with a plastic scraper.
All of the epoxy resin was removed in about 45 minutes with no discoloration of the wood veneer.
I will post a pic of the dash with the epoxy resin removed later on today.

 

Like I said in my earlier post, I removed all of the clear coat from my dashboard.
Here is a pic of the dash after sanding

 

I clear coated the wood on my dash and installed it today. I also did the ski slope with some cherry veneer.
I did not touch the ignition switch nor the ignition harness and now the damn car would not crank.
Will troubleshoot that tomorrow before I complete the dash assembly

 

I *HATE* it when that happens!
Nothing is wrong, nothing is changed, but Suddenly, for no apparent reason, Nothing works!
(';')

 

UPDATE:
Problem resolved. Green/black wire at Neutral Safety Switch was broken.

 

Looking good! Got some higher res pictures? Did you stain the veneer at all or just lacquer it. And what kind of lacquer did you use? I'm looking at doing mine some time in the near future.

 

@pjprofili: After sanding the veneer, some areas were slightly discolored, (kinda whitish looking). I guess the original stain was lost in the areas where the resin had lifted and exposed to sunlight. Using 1000 grit wet/dry, I lightly sanded the original veneer until the color was even throughout.
Since I was also planning to do the ski slope with some king of veneer, I went to a cabinet maker and was able to get a small piece of cherry veneer which closely matched the grain of the original veneer on the dash. Since the cherry veneer was small enough for them to call it scrap, I got it for free. I still have about 2 sq ft left.
The cabinet maker, looked at the color of the now sanded dash pieces and recommended a Colonial Maple stain that would make all the pieces and the steering wheel match.
2 coats of stain did the trick. After letting the stain dry overnight, I lightly sanded the now stained pieces with 800 grit and I used some HIGH TECK Ultra Clear 7000 Clear Coat.
I applied 5 coats allowing 15 mins between coats. I lightly sanded each coat with 800 grit. Drying time was accelerated with the use of a heat lamp. I allowed it to cure overnight and the next day I applied 5 more coats using the same process described above. The last 2 coats were a heavy application. I allowed 24 hours drying time before sanding. 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500. I then used an Orbital polisher to buff to a shine.
The clear coat was so thick that none of the gauges or switches would fit, so I had to carefully sand all of the openings for the items to fit.
I am extremely pleased with the result. I will adjust my camera to get some pics with better resolution in a couple of days

 

My final piece of wood veneer. After seeing how well the Ski slope turned out. I attempted to do the fascia for the Radio and AC controls. My original was in poor shape, so I purchased a replacement from EverydayXJ. I dismantled the original fascia, and using a heat gun, I removed the black vinyl. I straightened out the bent metal and proceeded to apply the Cherry veneer that was left over from the Ski slope. Here is an image, stained to match the rest of the wood work. . I still have to work on the radio opening and the area at the bottom where the face vent control slide lever goes.
The idea was that if I failed, I had a replacement piece. Using a set of Needle files (Harbor Freight), I carefully opened up all of the holes.

 

My son in law has removed the old veneer and fitted, glued and cut new veneer for my series 2....he is now sending it to a furniture polisher to finish it off.....I’ll post pics when it comes back. I purchased an old dash for him to play with so I can still drive around.......I put a bit of water on it to give an idea of colour.

 

That's a Gordamous (Beautimous?) walnut burl, Jim!
Probably came from one of our local Walnut orchards. We grow the best ones.
(';')

 

Sanchez:

Now you gotta wear your shades when you drive, whether it is day or night!!!

Brilliant. whatta look..

Carl

 

This was my post was from back in 2019. It has been 2 years since I did mine and as of today it still looks as good as on the 1st day after completion.
@ Carl: Absolutely no glare from my dashboard. Cameras do play tricks on you especially if the pic is taken by a novice like me.

 

Jim,
That sure is a fine piece of veneer! Any idea where your son-in-law procured it from?

 

Ian, son in law has woodwork lessons weekly (a lawyer who is a frustrated carpenter) and tells me he just chose it from the many they had in stock.