XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Refurbishing Dashboard

 
  #1  
Old 01-18-2019, 05:33 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default Refurbishing Dashboard

The clearcoat on the wood fascia of my dashboard is all cracked and lifting. I am going to attempt to repair same. Home Depot sells a product to remove paint and epoxy from wood. As per the instructions, it does not damage the wood. If it does, I will replace the veneer.
I tried Alyn's method of using an iron to heat the clearcoat to no avail.
I tried a heat gun but it is too slow and not very effective.
If all fails, it is off to Saul at British Autowood.

shows area where I started to remove the clearcoat


 
  #2  
Old 01-18-2019, 05:36 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default

I have done this before on one of my Jags. In that instance I replaced the veneer. On this one I am trying to save the veneer.
 
  #3  
Old 01-18-2019, 05:50 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Middlesex Cty, Massachusetts
Posts: 148
Received 35 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by sanchez View Post
I have done this before on one of my Jags. In that instance I replaced the veneer. On this one I am trying to save the veneer.
A while ago I used to do a lot of furniture refinishing. I would say that if a heat gun didn't remove it, then the chances a chemical will are slim. I was going to suggest simply re-veneering but you've done that before.
 
  #4  
Old 01-18-2019, 06:44 AM
Jose's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,745
Received 1,319 Likes on 1,075 Posts
Default

I have been to Saul's shop and was amazed at the quality he does. He uses a fire oven to cure the finish. I asked him what if the wood burns? and he started laughing. It's a secret he said. Well, you should see the wood in his Jaguar 340 and Jaguar 420. It's like if it was behind glass.
 
  #5  
Old 01-18-2019, 12:29 PM
Adrian L's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

I would strongly discourage any use of heat guns until you have tried a gel paint stripper. You want the strongest, nastiest one you can find (nothing "green" or water based or anything like that). They used to sell one in Canada called "Suppa Stripper" that was very good. 3M make a good one too I think. Gloves? yes--the stuff will eat through skin.

Just leave that nasty gel on the wood for an hour and very carefully scrape it off with a credit card or plastic tool. Never use a metal scraper.

Clean it with paint thinner. Then a light sanding and many, many coats of high gloss polyurethane. Many of my passengers ask me if my S1 dash is brand new.
 

Last edited by Adrian L; 01-18-2019 at 12:33 PM.
  #6  
Old 01-18-2019, 12:54 PM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default

@ Jose: Where is Saul located? Phone #?
 
  #7  
Old 01-18-2019, 01:06 PM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default

@ Adrian L: I purchased a Paint and Epoxy Remover made by Jasco.
I applied the remover and left it for about an hour. Nothing happened. I applied the same remover on a piece of fiberglass with a gel coating and within 15 minutes the gel coat lifted off the fiberglass.
I went with my heat gun set at low temperature, and lo and behold the epoxy resin on the dashboard started to pop. I then just had to scrape the popped resin with a plastic scraper.
All of the epoxy resin was removed in about 45 minutes with no discoloration of the wood veneer.
I will post a pic of the dash with the epoxy resin removed later on today.
 
  #8  
Old 01-21-2019, 06:40 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default


Like I said in my earlier post, I removed all of the clear coat from my dashboard.
Here is a pic of the dash after sanding
 
  #9  
Old 01-24-2019, 05:24 PM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default


I clear coated the wood on my dash and installed it today. I also did the ski slope with some cherry veneer.
I did not touch the ignition switch nor the ignition harness and now the damn car would not crank.
Will troubleshoot that tomorrow before I complete the dash assembly
 

Last edited by sanchez; 01-24-2019 at 05:29 PM. Reason: add info
  #10  
Old 01-24-2019, 10:17 PM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
Posts: 16,837
Received 3,378 Likes on 2,634 Posts
Default

I *HATE* it when that happens!
Nothing is wrong, nothing is changed, but Suddenly, for no apparent reason, Nothing works!
(';')
 
  #11  
Old 01-25-2019, 04:45 PM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default

UPDATE:
Problem resolved. Green/black wire at Neutral Safety Switch was broken.
 
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (01-25-2019)
  #12  
Old 01-26-2019, 12:58 PM
pjprofili's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 145
Received 29 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Looking good! Got some higher res pictures? Did you stain the veneer at all or just lacquer it. And what kind of lacquer did you use? I'm looking at doing mine some time in the near future.
 
  #13  
Old 01-27-2019, 05:09 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default

@pjprofili: After sanding the veneer, some areas were slightly discolored, (kinda whitish looking). I guess the original stain was lost in the areas where the resin had lifted and exposed to sunlight. Using 1000 grit wet/dry, I lightly sanded the original veneer until the color was even throughout.
Since I was also planning to do the ski slope with some king of veneer, I went to a cabinet maker and was able to get a small piece of cherry veneer which closely matched the grain of the original veneer on the dash. Since the cherry veneer was small enough for them to call it scrap, I got it for free. I still have about 2 sq ft left.
The cabinet maker, looked at the color of the now sanded dash pieces and recommended a Colonial Maple stain that would make all the pieces and the steering wheel match.
2 coats of stain did the trick. After letting the stain dry overnight, I lightly sanded the now stained pieces with 800 grit and I used some HIGH TECK Ultra Clear 7000 Clear Coat.
I applied 5 coats allowing 15 mins between coats. I lightly sanded each coat with 800 grit. Drying time was accelerated with the use of a heat lamp. I allowed it to cure overnight and the next day I applied 5 more coats using the same process described above. The last 2 coats were a heavy application. I allowed 24 hours drying time before sanding. 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500. I then used an Orbital polisher to buff to a shine.
The clear coat was so thick that none of the gauges or switches would fit, so I had to carefully sand all of the openings for the items to fit.
I am extremely pleased with the result. I will adjust my camera to get some pics with better resolution in a couple of days
 
  #14  
Old 02-06-2019, 05:57 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 164 Likes on 112 Posts
Default


My final piece of wood veneer. After seeing how well the Ski slope turned out. I attempted to do the fascia for the Radio and AC controls. My original was in poor shape, so I purchased a replacement from EverydayXJ. I dismantled the original fascia, and using a heat gun, I removed the black vinyl. I straightened out the bent metal and proceeded to apply the Cherry veneer that was left over from the Ski slope. Here is an image, stained to match the rest of the wood work. . I still have to work on the radio opening and the area at the bottom where the face vent control slide lever goes.
The idea was that if I failed, I had a replacement piece. Using a set of Needle files (Harbor Freight), I carefully opened up all of the holes.
 
The following users liked this post:
yachtmanbuttson (02-06-2019)
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AL NZ
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
2
05-18-2015 11:02 AM
jjd
Mark V - X 420G
5
05-10-2015 05:12 AM
Stuart1960
E type ( XK-E )
1
04-26-2015 04:17 PM
NorCalDiesel
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
1
02-02-2013 03:06 PM
kennith13
XJS ( X27 )
3
05-10-2012 09:34 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Refurbishing Dashboard


Advertising
Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: