XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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Replacement Alternator

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  #21  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:10 AM
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Default RE: Replacement Alternator

ORIGINAL: Jose

Lucas is still today a lot better than Delco, Mopar,or Motorcraft I'm not happy to say.

But in fairness, I also should say, my '65 S type has some Motorcraft and Mopar parts still kicking. For example, the Power Steering system is from a 1960's Ford Tractor. If I want to replace the power steering Filter, I find it in Ford Tractor Supply houses.

The Inhibitor (Neutral-Reverse) Switch is from a 1960's Chrysler-Dodge. I assume Mopar.

Funny ehh?

But it is known that William Lyons came to the US on shopping trips. He went to GM, Ford, and Chrysler to buy parts, like the DG-250 auto transmission from the Studebaker days installed in many Jags. and the Brog Warner trannys, and the GM trannys.

The XJ-6has lotsof GM and Delco parts, like the Ignition Amplifier, parts which can be found at NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Rogers, Advance, you name it.





So true.

Over the years I've seen quite a few cars that have parts-in-common with other makes.

For Jaguar, which for years never really had a very big R&D budget, it made perfect sense to buy and use already existing components that fit the need....rather than reinvent the wheel, so to speak.

Wasn't the DG250 also made by Borg Warner? I thought it was, not that I've ever researched it, mind you.

Cheers
DD
 
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2009, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: Replacement Alternator

yes Doug, DG-250 is a Borg Warner,originally used in Studebakers. Servicing and parts is not a problem, just go to a Studebaker Forum and there's many sources.

Mine has a "Gear Hold" feature which if you want the tranny to not shift to 3rd gear, you switch the gear hold switch to ON and it doesn't shift pass 2nd gear until you throw the switch to OFF.

The 3rd gear is like a 4th gear,higher than a 3rd gear, for high speeds.Itshifts like 1st, 2nd, and 4th. Maybe that is the reason for the manual hold in 2nd gear.

Unfortunately Jaguar called it "Speed Hold", when in fact it is a "Gear Hold".

When you firstdrive the classic S type, you thinkit is a Cruise control!
 
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  #23  
Old 01-19-2016, 06:17 PM
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Hi guys ! Uve been lots of help . My 86 xj6 battery lite is on and off and on ..goes off at low rpm...I was hoping for bad battery ..nope . Now I get to take out alternator .
Who the F#%^k designed this location . I mean really ? Disasemble half the suspension and find a way to unhook the wires ...really?
 
  #24  
Old 01-20-2016, 07:15 AM
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half the suspension? First loosen the alternator belt adjuster and unseat belt so it just hangs there. Raise front of car and place support jacks securely. Remove the splash panel, then release the sway bar from each side / corner / link so the sway bar can pivot up/down on its 2 bushed brackets. Then start to undo the bolts and nuts holding the alternator to engine. The wiring / plugs is the last thing to remove.
 

Last edited by Jose; 01-20-2016 at 07:20 AM.
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  #25  
Old 01-20-2016, 10:08 AM
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Jose:


Globalization has been around a long time, contrary to what some of the 'activists" say!!


Some years back, my 79 IHC Scout II's starter experienced hot start issues. It was equipped with a GM ACDelco unit. Very similar in architecture to the Lucas unit on Jaguar's of the era.


One solution was to install a relay. I used one from son's parted out mid sixties MOPAR cop car turned "'stock car" racer.


Nice, a solid state unit. Hot start issue resolved.


Side bar;
Another way to remove an alternator pulley, is an impact wrench.


The 140 amp Delco alternator on my LT1 seems to fill all of my jaguar's electrical needs!!!


I've messed with a lot of Delco alternators. I have a jar full of spare parts for them!!! The ability to "clock" them to suit various install
locations is useful.


Carl
 
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  #26  
Old 01-23-2016, 06:18 PM
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Hello gents ,, got alternator out , not too bad , unhooking sway bar and rotating alt down after unhooking belt to access top bolts . Needed 3 hands to put it back ,,,
Took to our local shop , 3 generations selling parts and repairing starters , generators , alternators and they will tune ur mechanical regulator to ur generator ....
Loose wire at brush ...he cleaned it up and charged me $10 .......Yep. Ten dollars
Great guys .
That really is a dirty oily crummy location ...thanks for the directions ....
Oh there's the timeing indicator ....guess I'll check timing too.
 
  #27  
Old 01-24-2016, 09:54 AM
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In other words, you graduated like Doug predicted. Congrats. You could have degreased the area while you waited for the alt.repair? It's a dirty job but someone has to do it !
 
  #28  
Old 01-26-2016, 08:07 AM
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new problem? now the battery light comes on at startup and stays on for 3 or 4 minutes then goes off .. almost temp related ???? weak connection?
 
  #29  
Old 01-29-2016, 08:24 AM
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does the light go off if you accelerate the engine? If yes, the battery is low, old, or starting to weaken. Trust the light, it is telling you the truth.
 
  #30  
Old 01-30-2016, 07:07 AM
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Default Battery lite

Yes and no,,,,lite basically comes on for couple of minutes during warm up now .
It's 25 in the AM here . I tightened belt a little more and seemed to reduce time lite is on . I put in new 60 month battery first . I have digital charger . Put it on the battery and it was about 80% I let it slow charge to 100% . Then I took alternator to shop and he said loose conection at brush . Reinstalled and here I am .
At first it would go off at lower rpm and come on at higher , then go off whilst crusing......
I'm now thinking age of belt . Belt did not feel brittle as some get but I'm wondering if it's temp related ,I'm wondering if new belt would not b affected by temp.
After she sits and cools somewhat lite will come on shortly again but goes out.

I don't think it comes on at all when warm but I've been driving short hops thru the day .ill drive it this weekend ......

On another subject , I get a slight stall between cold and running temp . It will puff or back blow then catch ,,,,,obviously something in fuel air mix. I backed the Allen screw at corner of AFM to 2 1/2 out , this morning I'll see what that does. Runs smoothly when at temp .
Thanks guys.


Sent from my iPad
 

Last edited by Chris Willis; 01-30-2016 at 07:10 AM.
  #31  
Old 01-30-2016, 07:55 AM
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ok, in my '84 the battery light comes on with all the other system check lights at the cluster between the tach and speedo, when the ignition switch is rotated to the START position, but it goes out inmediately with all the other check lights, the only light that remains on, is the emergency brake light until I release the emergency brake. Also the Seat Belt Warning Buzzer will keep buzzing for a few extra seconds, then goes off. The battery light should not stay on, zero, nada. If it stays on any longer than the 1 or 2 second check, there is a fault at any of the components or wiring involved. As to the flat spot you experience, maybe Doug knows how to diagnose it, because in my experience with my car, i've never had AFM issues.
 
  #32  
Old 01-30-2016, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Willis
Yes and no,,,,lite basically comes on for couple of minutes during warm up now .
It's 25 in the AM here . I tightened belt a little more and seemed to reduce time lite is on . I put in new 60 month battery first . I have digital charger . Put it on the battery and it was about 80% I let it slow charge to 100% . Then I took alternator to shop and he said loose conection at brush . Reinstalled and here I am .
At first it would go off at lower rpm and come on at higher , then go off whilst crusing......
I'm now thinking age of belt .

My gut tells me that there is *still* something amiss inside the alternator itself but by all means tighten the belt and check the connections at the alternator.

Make sure the alternator itself is grounded by giving the mounting bolts an extra tug with your wrench.

Make sure the connection at "+" junction post at the firewall is clean and tight. This is where the alternator output wire attaches....just inboard and slightly below the brake booster

There have been some reports of the fat alternator output wire corroding and causing problems. I ran into this myself on a 1980 XJ6. Opened up the wire and the first several inches at either end were white and green with corrosion.

Cheers
DD
 
  #33  
Old 01-30-2016, 10:31 AM
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Theories:


1. Second Doug on the big brown from the alternator to the firewall post. Making up a fresh one with new connectors could solve a lot.


loose strands and the bond between the strand and connector. *** moisture, it is n a vulnerable place for road water. Add lots of amps !! Chemistry 101. Copper oxide. Green in color. Dubious continuity! Found in less than good battery cables as well.


2. Worn alternator belt. Stiff and glazed. Or just worn and no longer conforms with the pulley sheaves.


3.No belt dressing, please. May work for a bit, yet hasten complete failure of the belt.


4. Make a patch cord. Connect VOM via the cigar lighter. Observe volts in real time under various loads and RPMs. The dash unit is too slow on the uptake to be useful in that respect.


Carl
 
  #34  
Old 01-31-2016, 08:29 AM
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Default Battery light

Latest. Drove on approx 30 mile one way drive last night. 64 degrees to a nice restaurant , somewhat rural small town off two lane curvy hwy., two couples sitting outside by the fireplace having cocktails and enjoying a couple of cigars. Followed by terrific meal....perfect for a 86 jaguar as transportation.

Lite stayed off most of the time . But did flicker . It seemed while cornering .
I'm thinking , as suggested , check connections , wire condition and replace belt.
Yes something internal is still possibility. Running head lites doesn't seem to make any difference.
Shop guy mentioned 14.2 at alternator I've read 13 + at battery . Some drop,expected? I will test with digital next time.

What is lite showing? Low voltage? Low amps? Low charging at battery ?

Thanks for the help.
 
  #35  
Old 01-31-2016, 10:45 AM
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Since it is a replacement altermator after all, let's say you got a bad one. The best way to confirm is by substituting it, yes I know, another R&R. But do this next check on the next drive regardless of thetemperature:. Go driving and as soon as the battery light flickers on and off, grab the ignition key, -with a feather touch- and move it towards the START position very very super gently, to see if the flickering stops. If it does, replace the igniter switch, they do wear out between the RUN and START position causing weird symptoms.
 
  #36  
Old 01-31-2016, 01:54 PM
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Yeah, I found that to be all too true!!! I had a bunch of odd issues. I replaced my (igniter) AKA ignition switch with a good one sourced via
David Boger. Things electric are now just hunkey dorey!!!


Went o market in the Jaguar. Stop at Safeway to replenish my food supply, and, at Petco for some for Coco. albeit, he gets chopped roast
turkey atop his morning kibble, sourced from same place as me.


Jaguar enjoyed the outing, albeit it was chilly.


My climate control provided warm air in the car. Set 70 and auto and it wafts warm breezes!!!


Super Bowl festivities in full swing. Local rocker, Chris Isaaks and
band sounded good last night. More music than show??? Unusual???


Carl
 
  #37  
Old 01-31-2016, 01:57 PM
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PS, and I'm not much of a rock and roller, in fact next to zilch.


More like Honky Tonk! I have the gear. Levi's, Stetson, tony Llama's, big brass belt buckle....... Levi Strauss was a local guy, the firm still is....
Carl
 
  #38  
Old 02-28-2017, 06:03 AM
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Hi Just joined.
Just completed an alternator replacement on an 1988 series 3 XJ12 sovereign RH drive.

Not what I would describe as an easy job.

Standing in front looking at the car the alternator is to the lower left front.
1. Starting from underneath I removed the alternator belt tensioner.
2. From on top removed the A/C belt tensioner pulley assembly.
3. Removed the A/C belt tensioner mounting bracket.
4. Slackened off the alternator mounting bolt. Bl..dy bolt hits the fan.
5. Removed the 4 bolts holding the fan blades to the hub.
6 Now can get the long alternator bolt out.
7. Twist the alternator round and remove the wires. (battey is disconnected)
8. Work the alternator round and pull it up out the car.

Reverse to install new alternator.

That was one slow dirty job but all working fine now.
 
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  #39  
Old 02-28-2017, 06:19 AM
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Good work, David !

Cheers
DD
 
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