Hi Doug

How does that tape work ? Is it sticky ? Do you have to heat it to make it stick ?

 

No heating required.

You just wrap your wires as you would with any other tape.

Cheers
DD

 

Ran across my first SNAFU today.

First, look at item #1 in this picture --- the big mounting bracket:

Gearbox Mounting-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


Well......

....it won't bolt up to the underbody of the car. The 6 cylinder cars had a slightly different (but equally bizarre) arrangement and the underbody mounting holes won't mate up the V12 brackets. I'm a bit surprised that Jaguar didn't configure the underbody holes/anchors to accept both 6 and 12 cylinder type mounts

I'm pondering possible solutions, the foremost in my mind is to ditch the Jaguar mounting system entirely and fabricate a much simpler set-up using a conventional (by USA standards) single-block-of-rubber mount on a simple cross-member.

Cheers
DD

 

Whew???


Ideas:


1. drill the V12 mount to match the holes in the I6 body. Or fab straps with holes to match and welds to the V12 "device",
the hard way as is my wont.


2. My lump uses a simple plate with holes to match the body and a hole in which to mount the simple hard rubber mount. simple, teime tested and works just fine.


But, your situation would need a bit of fabrication or would it as to attaching the simple mount to the transmission tail shaft.


Or, as the transmission of the V12 is of GM origin, have a provision for simply bolting it on.


Seems that the last paragraph in your post is the most doable. Agree.
that's where I would go.


Plumbing job expanded. what else is new??? but, done, no more over flow. Only in the tank, not on floor, thanks god!!


Carl

 

.

doug thats what i did , much to expensive to use OEM parts.

i used a standard Chevy rubber trans mount on a steel bracket for the 700 trans. i think around $25, bucks.

 

As it bolted up to the GM transmission version for the Jaguar, perfect!!


Carl

 

I just stumbled upon this thread. Great project!

Any tips on the engine bay prep? Was it brute force, elbow grease? Did you use any cleaning agents that made life a bit easier? I shall be doing that on my project soon enough....

 

The engine bay on this car was especially rough. Fortunately, for my sanity and level of enthusiasm, an immaculate engine, show quality bay isn't in the cards. I've been here and done that a couple times. Very rewarding, but my heart just isn't in it these days. It's just too much work keeping it up to that standard.

Anyhow, to answer your question......

Lots of aerosol degreaser and brake wash, a gallon of mineral spirits, countless brushes and rags, and umpteen hours of nasty work....just to bring it up to "I can live with it" standard

Then, after cleaning, sanding and repainting the areas near the battery and under the master cylinder. I also removed and repainted the heat shield on the firewall.

One advantage of the V12 in a Series III is that the engine bay ends is filled to the absolute brim....so very little is actually visible

Cheers
DD

 

More updates:

Prior to installing the engine the V12 springs and anti-roll bar were installed, as were new lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings, and subframe bushings. The lower arm bushings were not too bad, actually, but this was one case where the job is SO much easier with the engine out that I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

I'm presently working on the V12 gearshift installation (it's different than the 6 cylinder version) and V12 shift cable.

Cheers
DD

 

V12 shift tower? Use an XJS tower and cable ?
Or, why not the donor car's cable and tower????


The grungiest part of the engine bay on my car was the front cross member!!! Oven cleaner did wonders.


Caveat, it eats paint as well. But, black is black and easily replaced.


Carl

 

Right, I am using the shift tower and shift cable from the V12 donor car.

This, in turn, requires some minor re-wiring of the neutral safety switch circuit and the back-up lamp circuit. On the 6-cylinder recipient car these functions were handled by the transmission mounted rotary switch. The V12 uses gearshift mounted switches.

Cheers
DD

 

My 6-cylinder recipient car had be driven lord-knows-how-long with a leaky oil pressure switch. The cross member was positively 'caked' with gunk. What a mess. I used a kitchen spatula to scrape off the worst of it....then moved on to aerosols and stiff brushes

Cheers
DD

 

Getting there!!!!


My shop tin cans include a variety of scraping devices.
No kitchen stuff, yet, any way.


Oven cleaner has probably lost it's bite nowadays. Once, tough stuff.


Today, mebbe:

1. Put new strings in weed whacker. Whack some more in front "lawn"!




2. Replace scuttle cover and cheek panel in Jaguar passenger side.
That down and upside down work I no longer do well.


3. More work on "rectification" of old tools. Present effort, a once slick
"spoke shave". Blade removable for honing to a really sharp edge.


4. ?. My antique ""Yankee drill" might be perfect for driving the scuttle screws home!!!! Ancient meets merely old!!


Carl

 

I have used this cleaner with *extreme* success!!! It will eat through any type of grease/grime with ease.

However, at full strength, it will burn your hands and will dissolve aluminum, so care is advised.

Zep Degreaser

My local Lowe's hardware store carries it.

 

I use the same on the shop floor and elsewhere....diluting the mix to suit the job. Strong stuff

Zep products are all very good in my experience.


Cheers
DD

 

Now to see if I can procure some of this in the state of California.
If it works, it's not generally available here. But I'll look anyway.
(';')

 

Hey Doug,
Strange question, but I noticed that you have a different washer fluid bottle than I have (mine is a vertical thin one). Is that stock, could you send some pics of the mount, does it have a part number on it?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Yes, stock...one of several types used on the Series III

You can get the part numbers here:

Windscreen Washer Reservoir - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK

I got mine from David Boger, however


Cheers
DD

 

Sorry. I gave you a picture of what you already have!

The one seen in post 26 is also a stock washer fluid bottle but was used only on the later 6 cylinder cars s far as I know. I don't have the part number but I'm sure David Boger can send you one.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi all I have a Daimler double six that has many body parts that have started to corrode, i.e. front wings,rear wing quite bad rust from window down to arch, rear chassis leg, rear doors and headlining starting to fall at back too. I have a 4.2 sovereign minus engine gearbox and steering rack, that has a great body how easy is to change everything over and what would I need to change. or is it worth cutting up the shell to put on the Daimler?. I have rebuilt the suspension on the Daimler back and front with new parts. please give me your feedback thank you.