Well after almost a years of having it sit at the mechanics i finally have my series 3 transmission put in and my jaguar back, im abit paranoid it's still got a leaking converter though because the dipstick is hard to read when its hot but it will be fine.

I cleaned both fuel tanks out and put in a new filter also another filter giving it 2 fuel filters because it use to surge and wouldnt rev past 4,000rpm in 2nd and i thought it was because the dirty fuel/filter.

but it still seems to do it. i replaced the points fuel pumps with jaguar electronic ones cost me $350 each ^.^


This is my thoughts.

2 fuel filters is to many causing it to surge because of lack of fuel
the fuel pumps cant keep up with constant high revs causing lack of fuel
I have 98octane petrol when I think it should have 91 or 95, making it run not right

The first time it started surging i changed the filter and took it for a drive and it didnt surge and went great then after a few days of sitting in the rain it surged again which is why i replaced the filters again and drained the fuel

I cleaned the spark plugs and points so ignition is allgood and its 100% a fuel problem causing it to surge at high revs
I cleaned the fuel bowls in both carbys and got rid of the little dirt from them

Would any of those problems cause it to surge at high revs if not what next? where on the carby would i check/clean.

It drives fine without surging and problems when cruising and i know these aint a sports car but trying to over take gets annoying when i never know if the car will surge or not.


On a seperate note. The engine has a rather annoying tick and doesn't go away when engine is warmed up, My mate said to try some motorup in the oil? what are your thoughts on motorup additive or a good additive to stop or lessen the ticking (think its just a lifter tick)

 

98 octane fuel isn't the problem....unless, perhaps, it has gone stale after a year in the repair shop.

The new fuel pumps should be able to supply the engine beyond 4000 rpm.

When replacing the fuel filters have you emptied the contents into a clean jar for inspection? If so, how did things look?

Assuming you have SU carbs are the dashpots full and the floats properly set?

Cheers
DD

 

the fuel was new, i drained all the old stuff out and put new stuff in, the fuel i drained out and the fuel from the filter bowl looked good as, out of both the tanks i drained maybe 30litres and only had a small amount of dirt and tiny water droplets on the bottom but then put new fuel in.

The damp pots i put oil in but it seems to just dissapear straight away after a drive down the road not sure where it ends up. so i normally dont put oil in them as it gets used when i start the car. not sure about the floats is there a link or guide you know that will tell me how to set them? I dont know how but can do it once im told how

abit more info. when i first go for a drive then hit out of town i pin it in 2nd it surges but revs out and changes to third. still surges and lacks torque and power but then i drive another little while then will put in 2nd again and repeat and after iv done that a few times it seems to get worse and after the 2nd or 3rd time with my foot down it lags right out around 4,000rpm in 2nd and doesn't really pick up any more speed. deffinatly a fuel probably like its sucked the carbs dry or something but that could be way off

 

Here is a few photos, both fuel bowls are about 1/2 full of petrol. is this normal? also i did notice there was 2 screws which adjust a lever which goes down to under the carb. one of the screws on the carb is about 5mm different from the other carby. not sure what there for or what one is where it is ment to be. but the lever the screws push down one side is down 5mm or so more than the other.

Also when cleaning the spark plugs today the rear 3 were fowled up with a bit of black gunk but the front 3 weren't and had more of a white fowling. which must have something to do with that screw being 5mm out. maybe?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Also what is this for? it has 2 lines coming from the carbs to the engine. no idea what it is but that black rubber bit on the engine is all old and has ripped underneath and isn't sealed any more



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

I din´t check all posts; did you check that the fuel filter is not obstructing the flow from the pumps ? The pumps keep up with pumping fuel as best they can but if the filter is restricting flow you will run out of fuel in the float bowls when you accelerate or keep a brisk pace. As you slow down the fuel pump would again suffice to fill up the float bowls (where the level is controlled by the needle valve controlled by the float device. So anytime you look in the float bowl the starvation condition will already have been remedied by the pump. You may be familiar with those adjuster screws. One is the jet adjust that determine if you run lean or rich or just about right. The other one is idle speed. Things were so simple with the HS8/HD8 carbs.

That picture of the lead going from the front of the engine is the crankcase ventilation. Air gets sucked from there by inlet vacuum and some gases from the crankcase gets burnt once more. It´s a good thing to make sure that rubber bellow is not leaking. There is a metal gauze in there as well that can become clogged.

 

The "black bit" at the front of the engine is the crankcase breather and if the rubber is broken, it is providing an alternative path for air to get into the engine instead of via the carburettors. What this means is that the engine will run weak, as the carburettors are not supplying all the air consumed. So you need to get a new rubber connector. However, if you clean up with cellulose thinners or similar, then tape it up temporarily, you should see a difference. The two highlighted screws look like the individual throttle butterfly adjusters. These are used to set each carburettor up individually. This is commonly done using a rubber tube, one end in your ear, the other at the carburettor throat. with the cross shaft loosened off, adjust carb until both carbs have the same hiss pitch. More precise way is to use a manometer tube, but you'll probably struggle to find one nowadays as everything is EFI. Once each carb hisses identically, the the cross shaft is locked and tick-over adjusted on a single screw.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I will tape that hose up for now, i played around with those 2 screws which adjust how rich it runs and it has gotten better, it doesnt surge in first gear at all now its much better, although in 2nd gear it goes good but when my foot is flat for a semi decent time it does start surging im not sure if its lacking fuel or the mixture still isnt set right. Im planning on taking it to an su carb specialist to get both carbs tuned and balanced because they do seem like it would help as playing around with it myself made a big difference but not 100% fixed. once the carbs are balanced and tuned ill see if i need to check the fuel line for obstructions. and i'll also tape that rubber bit off.

With that rubber bit on the engine how do i get it off? i had a look but it wasn't clamped on with a normal clamp it looks like it has a permantly metal ring around the bottom which im not sure how to take it off? is there anyway to take it off or can i just cut the clamp and rip it off then buy a new clamp with a new rubber bit.

On a side note. What do you guys think about the exhaust on these. my car is fully original and i wanted to keep it that way but i hate how the exhaust are bent out sideways at the back . . .I was thinking of just getting straight pipes coming out without that bend but i dont want to ruin the car in a Jaguar enthusiast eyes. Thinking about getting a full paint job on it very soon as well its starting to get abit rough again stone chips etc

 

I had the rear 2 resonators removed and the car seems to be running much better. The exhaust system seems to be all clogged with carbon, so it had some back pressure. Removing the rear 2 resonators seems to have alleviated some of that back pressure, making the engine run smoother. It also sounds beefier, and I quite enjoy it.

 

Those exhaust end pipes are swan-necks for a reason. In 1968 on the early Series 1s, the cars had straight pipes, and it was found that exhaust fumes could get sucked forward and into the cabin. These bent piupes were then put in to cure the problem and have been on all the models since, right up to model end in 1987. So my advice is to leave them alone.

As to your rubber breather moulding, it will be best to get a new one and use a jubilee-type clip, Although I see there is a part number for the stock clip, but it may no longer be available.

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

 

Cheers, I'm from NZ and having trouble finding that part in my current town. Do any of you know an online site that doesn't cost to much and ships to nz thats trustworthy?

 

Hi what town in N/Z are you in as I am in Upper Hutt 45 minutes north of Wellington semi retired but still running Jag spares. I probably have the part you want and if you are close by bring it in and I could tune your carbs for you. I have website
www.jagspares.co.nz or phone me and I can talk you thru it enough to make it run better 04/9393763. Glad to here some one keeping a series 2 on the road not many around now.


Cheers Ray

 

Hey, I'm down in nelson you most likely have seen my series 2 listed on trademe, the sexy silver one for $4500. Am debating on keeping it just need to find some rear seatbelts for it so it's suitable for a kid. The carbs were fine when i got the car but then i decided to fiddle around with the screws :/ lol I've read about how to balance them using the hissing sound with a hose the main thing im stuck on is the 2 screws which are for the jets under the carb. my 2 screws are not even but i wound them right out so they weren't touching the lever then adjusted them evenly but i wasn't sure how many turns i needed for a base tune?

I sent you a message through your website. Let me know if you never received it.

Thanks heaps.

 

Hi I never received the message try my email jagspares@paradise.net.nz
All so a contact for the Nelson Jaguar Drivers Club if you wish to be a member or maybe you all ready are. P.O. Box2276 Stoke Nelson 7041 Brian Devlin Secretary Phone 035441686. There may be some one close by to tune your carbs. I have some series 3 rear seat belts that should fit ok.
Cheers Ray

 

Cheers, will send an email through now.

 

Have you checked the vacumadvance at the distributor?

 

I did check the vacuum line going to it and it seemed all fined, Not 100% sure if its working 100% though as the dizzy is so hard to get to and didn't want to fiddle with other things incase i did more damage than good, but im 90% sure its carby related as i have got it 50% better by playing around with those jet mixture screws but just cant get it all the way better. I think i go from 1 extreme to the other and can't seem to get it setup just right because sometimes it ends up backfiring out the carb then sometimes i get it so it starts running way to rich with noticeable power loss but no back firing. so i just turned the screws till its almost better, in 1st gear it revs right out just fine without any surging or nothing its just in 2nd where the gear is alot longer it starts off running mint but then when my foots been down for awhile and it gets around 4500rpm it decides it wants to start surging and doesnt want to rev any further just sits there like its at its max speed

It feels like my foots been down way to long that the carbs run out of fuel since first gear is fine but its only a short gear so my foot isnt down for as long in 2nd. But surely that can't be right as i have 2 brand new electronic fuel pumps and it got better and worse by playing with the screws.


and since iv got new fuel pumps cleaned the fuel tanks and lines my next step is tune the carbs then if that doesnt work ill move onto something else and try figure it out.



On a side note. My real main seal im sure is leaking like a sieve! seems to drip way to much oil than it use to which is sad because i dont want to take the whole motor out and redo the seal. So im thinking of putting in a 383 stroker into it, but need to find out the cert regulations and all that info first. thats my long term idea anyway

 

Hi The problem could be the AED unit (Automatic Enrichment Device) which is the part between the carbs; It relies on hot air from the exhaust manifold through the hot air duct across the top of the engine to close of when engine gets to temp. I notice in the last photo the tubing is missing from the hot air duct to the air filter housing. Personally I would do away with the AED unit and fit a manual choke' even from new those AED units gave trouble staying on and running to rich causing raw fuel to wash the engine bores and ending up with fuel in the oil sump (not good )


Ray

 

i did have the air filter and that hose from the exhaust off when i took those photos but any chance you can explain or through up some photos on how to get rid of this setup?

I wasn't sure i eve had a choke? it has 3 carbs 1 little one in the middle which the owner told me is the starting carb ( i assumed it was the choke?)

 

Unfortunately no. It's only got two. And as rays mentioned the black box/unit in between is the AED. It is basically a more old fashioned version of an automatic choke. To remove it I recall there being the vacuum lines connected to the carburetors (the short hose you have photographed) which need to be plugged. The vacuum hose on the AED unit and I remember there being a hose attached to the overflows from the carburetors. Then just in bolt it from the pegs that fit it to the carbs.

The screws you have been turning are indeed mixture enrichment screws. To set them evenly take the carb domes off and remove the springs and pistons. Don't mix them up!
Turn the screws so that the jet is flush with the level of carburetor body. Repeat for both carbs and re install the pistons, springs and domes - I am talking about the outer shell I'm not sure of its name.
Now, the idle adjustment screws (closer to the motor behind the enrichment screws), wind them both out so that the are no longer in contact with the adjuster plate. Then screw each side down to the point of contact THEN one full turn each only.
Hopefully the AED will start the car.
Once the motors at normal temp turn both like adjustment screws in even proportion until normal revs are achieved. (My car is usually 750-800rpm). Now turn both enrichment screws equally and slowly until you notice the revs start to fall. Back the screws off a little and the carbs should be set.

Hopefully someone can correct me if I'm wrong??

Cheers all and happy new year

 

I forgot to mention to check the position of the throttle plates. Although it shouldn't seem an issue if the engine has been smooth previously? I've had this issue with my Daimler although it has a manual choke, I'm scratching my head to remember what I did to fix it or if the poltergeist that infested all it's other problems was the cause.