Series 3 suspension bushings
#1
Series 3 suspension bushings
Hi all
I've started using my pride and joy for the long trips to the airport and back, and I've noticed she had a slight shake at about 100 kph, wheels need balancing I assume, but she also feels slightly rough on the road and has a "knocking sound" over some bumps, I suspect suspension bushings...
I'm wanting to change them myself... Is this a big job? Can it be done by one person? Any special tools required? Any recommendations?
Many thanks for any responses.
I've started using my pride and joy for the long trips to the airport and back, and I've noticed she had a slight shake at about 100 kph, wheels need balancing I assume, but she also feels slightly rough on the road and has a "knocking sound" over some bumps, I suspect suspension bushings...
I'm wanting to change them myself... Is this a big job? Can it be done by one person? Any special tools required? Any recommendations?
Many thanks for any responses.
#2
Good on ya, its been a while.
If the knocking is in the front, check the top shocker rubbers, as they do chop out. This will make the car unstable and rough.
Shockers themselves can also sieze up internally, and that will make for a very rough ride.
Lower shock bushes are part of the shocker.
If it is the wishbone bushes, the tops are simple enough to do, with care and lower arm supported.
The lowers are a mongrel, and the spring needs to come out to achieve this. The steeringf rack off, the cradle lowered at the rear to allow the pivot pin to slide (if you are blessed) out, without clouting the sump.
I use GENUINE Metalastic ONLY in the lower arms. The amount of work involved is HUGE, so you really dont want to go back in there due to rubbish bushes.
If the knocking is in the front, check the top shocker rubbers, as they do chop out. This will make the car unstable and rough.
Shockers themselves can also sieze up internally, and that will make for a very rough ride.
Lower shock bushes are part of the shocker.
If it is the wishbone bushes, the tops are simple enough to do, with care and lower arm supported.
The lowers are a mongrel, and the spring needs to come out to achieve this. The steeringf rack off, the cradle lowered at the rear to allow the pivot pin to slide (if you are blessed) out, without clouting the sump.
I use GENUINE Metalastic ONLY in the lower arms. The amount of work involved is HUGE, so you really dont want to go back in there due to rubbish bushes.
The following users liked this post:
NathanDD6 (11-25-2015)
#3
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...
The lowers are a mongrel, and the spring needs to come out to achieve this. The steering rack off, the cradle lowered at the rear to allow the pivot pin to slide (if you are blessed) out, without clouting the sump.
I use GENUINE Metalastic ONLY in the lower arms. The amount of work involved is HUGE, so you really dont want to go back in there due to rubbish bushes.
The lowers are a mongrel, and the spring needs to come out to achieve this. The steering rack off, the cradle lowered at the rear to allow the pivot pin to slide (if you are blessed) out, without clouting the sump.
I use GENUINE Metalastic ONLY in the lower arms. The amount of work involved is HUGE, so you really dont want to go back in there due to rubbish bushes.
(';')
The following 2 users liked this post by LnrB:
Grant Francis (11-24-2015),
NathanDD6 (11-25-2015)
#4
Many thanks Grant and Elinor.
Fingers crossed it's JUST the tops... Her shocks work, no doubt about that, the sound does seem to be from the front left only.
Jack up, wheel off, have a look... Any good ways to go about checking, or will it be visually obvious is shes chewed a bush?
Thanks again.
Fingers crossed it's JUST the tops... Her shocks work, no doubt about that, the sound does seem to be from the front left only.
Jack up, wheel off, have a look... Any good ways to go about checking, or will it be visually obvious is shes chewed a bush?
Thanks again.
The following users liked this post:
LnrB (12-11-2015)
#5
Nathan,
You know the drill by now.
Drink first, check later, and YES, the absence of bushes is as clear as the next drink.
I would use the GENUINE "foamy" compound here. The Poly is a NO NO, and the Rubber can make the ride a tad harsh. Its those "foamy" compound that give Jags their ride and silence.
There is a proper word for those "foamy" bushes, but it escapes me at the moment. Someone will hekp us both out I hope.
You know the drill by now.
Drink first, check later, and YES, the absence of bushes is as clear as the next drink.
I would use the GENUINE "foamy" compound here. The Poly is a NO NO, and the Rubber can make the ride a tad harsh. Its those "foamy" compound that give Jags their ride and silence.
There is a proper word for those "foamy" bushes, but it escapes me at the moment. Someone will hekp us both out I hope.
#6
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Grant Francis (11-26-2015)
#8
#10
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I swapped mine out from the top. Usual pickle of holdiong the shaft to undo the nut. A small pair of "Vice Grip" pliers worked for me. There are sockets for that. I wonder if I have any amongst my trove.
I had a set in bubble wrap. Intended for some past Ford. Perfect
shape and size.
Any local parts place can have a suitable set.
Note, the Wing braces must be "killer tight" at each end.
Big socket, long bar, and pull hard!!!
Carl
I had a set in bubble wrap. Intended for some past Ford. Perfect
shape and size.
Any local parts place can have a suitable set.
Note, the Wing braces must be "killer tight" at each end.
Big socket, long bar, and pull hard!!!
Carl
The following users liked this post:
NathanDD6 (12-11-2015)
#11
Technically no. My Jag is still in the garage and will be for quite some time before I can log any miles. I can tell you everything I have ordered appears to be an exact match. They install as they are supposed to, the price is right, and I have not been disappointed. It's worth looking into. I have changed out every bushing on the front end as well as the rear. Everything came from this source.
The following users liked this post:
NathanDD6 (12-11-2015)
#12
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