Hello everyone thanks for looking!

Let me start from the top and explain everything because I know how little details can make a big difference.

I bought my 1984 xj6 a little over a month ago from a guy that had it on non operational tags because of the smog pump wouldn't let the car pass emissions here in California. He also had the timing down "from when he tried to pass" any way I buy the car, get some fresh fuel in it and start the drive home (45 minute drive). The transmission shifted through all 3 gears although I did have to lift my foot from the accelerator for it to shift. What the guy left out (and I didn't notice) is that the water pump had a leak and about half way home it started over heating. I pulled over, let it cool down and added water. Once it was drivable I started driving and had to let it cool down about 3 more times because after the first time it stopped shifting in to 3rd.

Since then I've replaced the water pump, set the timing (to ear but good), adjusted the shifter linkage replaced the spark plugs and topped off the trans fluid with type F.

My current issues that may or may not contribute to this are as follows

Inconsistent "red line" the car will hit a rev limiter if you will between 3000-4300rmp.
It is very sluggish and lacks a lot of power.
The smog pump does not have a belt running to it.
It has a pretty decent size exhaust leak between the resonator and the mufflers
It doesn't like to be at WOT. It has better response at about 3/4 throttle.

That's all I can think of that miiight help. Any leads or suggestions would be a great help! Thank you all for your time!

 

Adjusting the bands is a good place to start






Have you replaced the fuel filter?





Is the pump seized up? That'a usually why the belt is missing

Cheers
DD

 

First off, are you absolutely certain that you are missing third and not second? If the front band is out of adjustment or just worn, you will not have second gear, which will represent itself as if the transmission is holding first for a very long time, generally until you lift off the throttle. Compare your RPM readings and your speed to get a feel for which gears you actually have.

Otherwise, having to lift off the throttle with these B-W transmissions is generally a sign that the cable is not properly adjusted, causing the operating pressure in the unit to be too high. This can, in turn, cause the bands to ride on the clutches and wear the friction material. Does the transmission "thunk" into first and reverse when you engage them?

Definitely adjust the cable first, but be aware that to properly do so really requires that you remove the pan from the transmission (it's not difficult, but a bit intimidating). Then, adjust the bands and see what you get. Adjusting only the bands without attending to the cable will eventually lead you back to where you are now.

Tom

 

On a BW66?

There is an inital internal adjustment if the cable is replaced but routine adjustment is made at the throttle body...ideally with a pressure gauge in use.

Good catch on the band adjustment !

Cheers
DD

 

The pressure gauges will do the job, too, but aren't something your average owner will have. In the end, any adjustment procedure for the cable is designed to ensure that the cam is not actuating the plunger when at idle, and that the cable is fully extended at full throttle. Taking the pan off is the easiest way to truly verify this. Make sure that you have a fresh gasket if you go that route...

 

Ahhhh. Ok, got it !


Cheers
DD

 

I want to adjust the bands for sure I've heard a lot of people say it fixes all sorts of problems. I believe it was you that had the link for the DIY on that correct? If not I apologize. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet I believe I'll do that today providing someone has it in stock. As far as the smog pump goes the guy said it "didn't work" it will free spin one way but not at all the other way. Can't remember which way though. I bought a new one that just came in so I'll be doing that as well today.

Thanks for the speedy response! I'll keep you updated.

 

Thank you for your response!
I'm sure that getting in to 3rd is the problem because it will go from 1st to 2nd and and I'll be at around 3000rpm at 40mph and every once in a while it will kick in to 3rd but if I give it any more gas it kicks down back to 2nd.

So you're saying in order to adjust the cable correctly I need to remove the pan? I was under the impression I could disconnect it from up top, set it to where it is in neutral in both up top and on the trans and hook it back up. Did I adjust it incorrectly yesterday? Lol

 

You're talking about the gearshfit cable. I think two different cables are being confused here.

The gear shift cable connects the gear shift to the transmission to select "P" "R" "D" etc.

The last few posts have discussed the "detent" cable (sometimes known as a kickdown cable or TV (throttle valve) cable.

The detent cable controls the actual 1-2-3 up shifting and down shifting as you drive along

Cheers
DD

 

Ohhh yes I was confused! The the kick down cable can be adjusted at the throttle body? Do you by chance know of a DIY for that? Thank you!

 

I've been researching and googling and asking everyone I can think of to try to find out the exact adjustments for the kickdown cable up attached to the throttle body. Does anyone have any knowledge on this that they could pass on to me.

Thanks, Kyle

 

Kyle,

The adjustment is made by threading thee d of the outer cable in or out, which moves the transmission end of the inner cable. Threading it out will lengthen the outer cable, and increase the trans operating pressure. Threading it in will slacken off.

The most sure fire way is to remove the pan and actually put an eyeball on the cam. It sounds difficult, but its pretty straightforward.

Tom

 

So I messed with the TV cable today up at the throttle body and it took me about 6 tries but I believe it is "very close" to perfect. First to second shifts great! Second to third is still shifting a little later then I like but I'm guessing that's just how the gearing is set up because it's only a three speed? Either way I'm relatively happy because now I can drive my jag over 40mph! Tomorrow I shall throw the new smog pump on there so I can pump smog and then take it to get smog checked I suppose and hopefully I will pass!

I would like to thank everyone who gave input it helped me out a lot!

 

Here's some pictures I took after I gave her a good bath today.

 

Having just gone through some fun with my 66 "rebuild", how is it in reverse ie on a hill does it grab fine with a bit of pressure on the pedal?
in my case gentle reversing was fine, but if i was reversing up an incline and i give it some gas it would just lose grip and get a terrible noise, 4 months later no 3rd or reverse....

and anybody please do correct me, but the reverse and 3rd gear are related in some way.

 

Well I've tried reverse on flat ground but under WOT and it didn't seem to lose grip or make any noises. I'm not around any hills that would be safe to reverse up though

 

IIRC, third gear and reverse share the rear band. You should check the workshop manual to confirm.

This thread on the Rover P5 Club Forum should be of interest to those that have the B-W T-66, which is an evolution of the the T-35 used in the Rover. You can see the details of the innards of the transmission.

For the T-35 in my MGC, I was initially very nervous about dropping the pan, but after I did it, I realized it was no big deal. 15 bolts, a new gasket, and you know that the cable is properly adjusted for certain. No worries about stretched cables, missing/moved crimps, etc.



Now to get some time to test the vacuum modulator on my T-12.

Tom