On my car I ran 3/8 steel fuel line up the frame rail, into the RH wheel well then into the engine compartment far forward of the exhaust manifolds. This way, on a carb'd chevy convert, the fuel pump input would be close and easy to connect with rubber fuel line. I used common rubber insulated line clamps to hold the steel line in place along the wheel well. This way the fuel line is never in close proximity to the exhaust or any heat source. This was worth the time, effort and 20$ for, clamps, a steel line and 1 union to ease installation. This will eliminate any chance of vapor lock. You will need a tubing bender if you use steel. Nicopp lines are hand bendable and steel braded would suffice too. I'm cheap and already had a tubing bender so I chose steel. There is no pump, mechanical or eclectic, front or back that prevents vapor lock when the fuel line runs near the exhaust manifold.

 

Check your distributor gear for sloppiness will screw up timing and cause bogging. Dist gear walks on cam when worn.

 

I had for 25 years a Series 3 E type with a modified 350 and Turbo 400 and Carter AFB carb. I used an AC electric fuel pump mount d in boot and ran perfectly. Only problem I had was when I moved to a high altitude from sea level. When the secondary kicked in, it bogged down every time. Too much fuel at 4000 ft. I changed the secondary needles and jets to next smaller size and cured the problem. Has anyone changed the secondaries on yours. Easy to do on an AFB carb. Kits are available.