Back to my second series 1 spares car. This car was bought at auction in February and here is how the 4.2 engine looked as sold



And here is the same engine a couple of months later, just prior to removal



And now here is that engine in my back shed on a trolley - all ready to start up.


To get this engine started I had to overhaul the starter motor, strip the carbs (they were totally gummed up, pistons seized), removed torque converter, set timing (more later on that point), replace spark plugs, set up a small fuel tank, and stop up the cooling system prior to filling with water, I only wanted to run for a few minutes, so no radiator was fitted.



It started quite readily, but ran roughly and would not continue running. Later checked cylinder compressions Nos 2 &3 zero compression so clearly this engine has some problems. More later

 

John,

Maybe just a case of sticking valve(s) on those cylinders. You never know your luck.

Cheers.

 

I know someone who is looking for a Series 1 Air Filter Box if you have one for sale.

 

I have one for this engine, but not for sale. I will clean it up, paint it and apply a new sticker just like it came from the factory. I like the series 1 as they have no crossover from the exhaust.

 

Sticking Valves? That would mean stuck in the open position. Is this a "non-interference" engine? I once had a stuck open exhaust valve on a XKE V12. Idled a bit roughly, but ran like that for years. I only found out when the person I eventually sold it to, called in a huff. By then I was living in another country. I honestly never knew it was that way. Shows the importance of a compression test (that I never ever performed).

 

Have checked the valves and none are sticking.

Now to the more interesting problem - the timing marks. I found that the timing marks on the crankshaft were out by around 60 degrees. Used a pencil to find TDC on cylinders 1 & 6 and made my own mark


The photo shows the crank at position with the factory marks on 0 degrees. My chalk mark for TDC 1&6 is counterclockwise 60 degrees.
I timed and started the engine using my marks, so my chalk mark was correct.


Pulled everything apart - the damper came off easily and all the keys were engaged properly. My suspicion is that the damper has been rebuilt at some stage with the timing marks not aligned properly between the inner and outer section. I can see no other reason for the timing marks to be so far out.
Anyone else have any ideas?

 

Metalistic damper? If so, I thought they were a throw away item (i.e. unserviceable).

That is a real mystery!!!!!