Thoughts on the Jaguar XJ6 1987?
#41
I may well have. Let's inject some facts into this: the rub strips were never provided by Jaguar at the factory. The rub strips, like the bonnet leaper, were dealer-added accessories (and later chromed wheels also fall into this category); they were put on many but NOT on all cars (whether US or Canadian-market cars). They were, as Doug has noted, of two distinct kinds, either rivitted (ugh...) or applied with double-sided tape. They both destroy the original design of the car, just as the small US-mandated outer headlamps do (one look at a proper, as-designed Canadian-market car will show the awkwardness of the US modification). The rivitted style should be left in place unless a complete body renovation is planned.
The taped strips, however, can be removed without damage and with little effort, and as I have written previously, the difference is amazing. Unless the paint is badly weathered, a light polishing and waxing (not the same thing) will restore the original finish. I will post some photos of cars "as designed".
Wood: the finish is a urethane type that benefits in no way from a substance like Pledge. Wax is the best way of enhancing the gloss and providing some UV protection without a greasy coating.
Leather etc.: the dash top is not leather. A damp cloth will clean it and keeping it protected from the sun is the best thing you can do. A preservative such as 303 can be used if desired. The leather, however, needs conditioning. Hide Food is next to useless. There are many non-silicone conditioners available and on the Series III leather the Leatherique Rejuvenator works really well - it removes deeply ingrained dirt by capillary action and restores suppleness. The area at the top of the rear seats is the most vulnerable part of the interior -vulnerable to the damaging effects of the sun.
The taped strips, however, can be removed without damage and with little effort, and as I have written previously, the difference is amazing. Unless the paint is badly weathered, a light polishing and waxing (not the same thing) will restore the original finish. I will post some photos of cars "as designed".
Wood: the finish is a urethane type that benefits in no way from a substance like Pledge. Wax is the best way of enhancing the gloss and providing some UV protection without a greasy coating.
Leather etc.: the dash top is not leather. A damp cloth will clean it and keeping it protected from the sun is the best thing you can do. A preservative such as 303 can be used if desired. The leather, however, needs conditioning. Hide Food is next to useless. There are many non-silicone conditioners available and on the Series III leather the Leatherique Rejuvenator works really well - it removes deeply ingrained dirt by capillary action and restores suppleness. The area at the top of the rear seats is the most vulnerable part of the interior -vulnerable to the damaging effects of the sun.
Last edited by sov211; 07-16-2018 at 04:57 PM.
#42
The following 3 users liked this post by sov211:
#44
@ Jose thank you so much for the info!!!. Its greatly appreciated! Slowly getting to know my way around the engine. In many ways its feels less scary than say a new one. At least i can pretty much SEE everything. Unlike my wife new car that has everything hidden.
I will post a close up of the radio once home!
I will also grab a filter ASAP! I will check the horns this week. Need to get them fixed because being here for only 4 years and only learning to drive 3 years ago, I quickly realized californians don't understand the purpose of signal lights!
Strips. I have also seen 2 other 87's with the strips. So i figured they are somewhat STOCK to this region???. I will leave them on as I am partly in love with them and partly worried the colour difference will effect the overall look. Also i feel somewhat responsible to the previous owner to keep this girl as good as gold and as close to original as possible. He did such a great job.
@Olivermarks how often would you rub in the linseed oli?? And when you say fretboards you mean wood work right? Sorry. Noob question!
After reading the post about lemon pledge i did a google search and hit pin a Harley forum. Apparently the big boy riders of Harley have been raving on about pledge hahah Just can't imagine a big butch rider with pledge in his hand
My concern would be if it would discolor the chrome over time?? I have used it on my laptop in the past and noticed the yellow residue. Not sure if that was the pledge or some other mucky stuff in the machine itself. ITS A WORK MACHINE GUYS! Before i get comments hahah
@pjprofili Thank you for the info. The more i learn from here the more in love i get with my Jaguar and the more i wish to learn to maintain it!
Thank you all for making my first trip into this amazing car easy!
I will post a close up of the radio once home!
I will also grab a filter ASAP! I will check the horns this week. Need to get them fixed because being here for only 4 years and only learning to drive 3 years ago, I quickly realized californians don't understand the purpose of signal lights!
Strips. I have also seen 2 other 87's with the strips. So i figured they are somewhat STOCK to this region???. I will leave them on as I am partly in love with them and partly worried the colour difference will effect the overall look. Also i feel somewhat responsible to the previous owner to keep this girl as good as gold and as close to original as possible. He did such a great job.
@Olivermarks how often would you rub in the linseed oli?? And when you say fretboards you mean wood work right? Sorry. Noob question!
After reading the post about lemon pledge i did a google search and hit pin a Harley forum. Apparently the big boy riders of Harley have been raving on about pledge hahah Just can't imagine a big butch rider with pledge in his hand
My concern would be if it would discolor the chrome over time?? I have used it on my laptop in the past and noticed the yellow residue. Not sure if that was the pledge or some other mucky stuff in the machine itself. ITS A WORK MACHINE GUYS! Before i get comments hahah
@pjprofili Thank you for the info. The more i learn from here the more in love i get with my Jaguar and the more i wish to learn to maintain it!
Thank you all for making my first trip into this amazing car easy!
#45
Clearly, my comments had no effect. But I have two kids so I am used to that. One more try: Pledge will do nothing useful for the wood. The wood has a sealed urethane finish! Wax will give the best gloss and protection...the reference made to a "fretboard" by another poster has nothing to do with Jaguars...it is a reference to guitar wood. Sigh....I will just retreat and keep my experience with restoring these cars to myself.
#46
@slofut Thank you and much appreciated!
@sov211 Thanks for the info. I personally don't plan on using pledge but it was a nice suggestion to someone who has little to no experiment on these cars. Thats why google is so helpful. Many options and experiences. It all helps build a mental base of information. I like to ask as much as possible and then go off and do my own research so i can digest it fully. I have some wax on the way with various other materials for keeping the car ship shape.
@jose images attached.
Where would the fuse for the radio be?? (battery pic)
Filter pic
Radio pic
Thanks all!
@sov211 Thanks for the info. I personally don't plan on using pledge but it was a nice suggestion to someone who has little to no experiment on these cars. Thats why google is so helpful. Many options and experiences. It all helps build a mental base of information. I like to ask as much as possible and then go off and do my own research so i can digest it fully. I have some wax on the way with various other materials for keeping the car ship shape.
@jose images attached.
Where would the fuse for the radio be?? (battery pic)
Filter pic
Radio pic
Thanks all!
#47
if the fretboard is lacquered as in Rickenbacker guitars and some Fender guitar necks, you could polish it with any furniture polish, Pledge included. But if the fretboard is unpainted, then linseed oil is what is used, like Oliver said.
since i have been messing with spanish and electric guitars since 1963, I have learned to not use anything on fretboards, guitar strings don't like polishes or oils, they become dull instantly.
As far as wood in automobiles go, one is not polishing "wood" but the clear finish over the wood, be it urethane or varnish or lacquer or whatever. So any protective furniture polish will do. Everyone has their favorite. In my experience, there is no absolute BEST polish for automotive wood parts just like there are no absolute BEST shock absorbers or tires.
I use Pledge Lemon. Leaves a fresh scent and makes my S type and XJ wood parts wonderful. Try it. You might like it.
since i have been messing with spanish and electric guitars since 1963, I have learned to not use anything on fretboards, guitar strings don't like polishes or oils, they become dull instantly.
As far as wood in automobiles go, one is not polishing "wood" but the clear finish over the wood, be it urethane or varnish or lacquer or whatever. So any protective furniture polish will do. Everyone has their favorite. In my experience, there is no absolute BEST polish for automotive wood parts just like there are no absolute BEST shock absorbers or tires.
I use Pledge Lemon. Leaves a fresh scent and makes my S type and XJ wood parts wonderful. Try it. You might like it.
#48
Chris,
the HORN fuse is the one behind and above the battery, I can see it in the picture in a straight line back from the right side battery post.
The radio fuses are behind the left side vent panel near the emergency brake handle. You need to remove the panel by removing the 2 screws holding the plastic vent in place. Then you pull the panel towards the front of the car.
I am not familiar with that radio in the picture. Does it match with the factory paperwork illustrations? if it is a factory radio I was right about it being one of the SECURITY TYPE radios. You need a code, do you have it?
the last factory radio I am familiar with is the AJ 8600 used until 1986.
the HORN fuse is the one behind and above the battery, I can see it in the picture in a straight line back from the right side battery post.
The radio fuses are behind the left side vent panel near the emergency brake handle. You need to remove the panel by removing the 2 screws holding the plastic vent in place. Then you pull the panel towards the front of the car.
I am not familiar with that radio in the picture. Does it match with the factory paperwork illustrations? if it is a factory radio I was right about it being one of the SECURITY TYPE radios. You need a code, do you have it?
the last factory radio I am familiar with is the AJ 8600 used until 1986.
#49
AJ8700 radio unit
#50
#51
#52
#53
#54
#55
#56
#58
#59
The following users liked this post:
yachtmanbuttson (07-18-2018)
#60
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
Received 2,399 Likes
on
1,880 Posts
Four fingers to do it. Seems an easy thing for a guitarist.
Grip each end with two fingers from each hand . Push from each end when compresses, twist. Pull apart.
That should free the gas fuse.
Caveat : he fuse may look good, that is the bar in the glass may look intact. but, open hidden by one or both the metallic ends. Do a continuity test one way or another. or merely a preemptive replacement. Note the differing value measures of Brit vs SAE.
Caveat; Heed wherever feasible, what ever Dr. Gregory prescribes. His know how on these cars is legendary.
Carl
Grip each end with two fingers from each hand . Push from each end when compresses, twist. Pull apart.
That should free the gas fuse.
Caveat : he fuse may look good, that is the bar in the glass may look intact. but, open hidden by one or both the metallic ends. Do a continuity test one way or another. or merely a preemptive replacement. Note the differing value measures of Brit vs SAE.
Caveat; Heed wherever feasible, what ever Dr. Gregory prescribes. His know how on these cars is legendary.
Carl