This may or may not be new news to you guys and gals, but it sure was new enlightening news to me. Both the gasoline and the oil.

Gasoline – there are two levels of grade of gasoline, having nothing to do with octane. Those that exceed the EPA requirement of detergent levels of 2018… and those that don’t. My Jaguar and Mercedes now get only Top Tier gasoline. And, in my area of Florida I find the Top Tier stations are the same pricing as the NOT Top Tier stations to be competitive. So why not just put the good stuff in?

Below is from Wikipedia:

Top Tier Detergent Gasoline and Top Tier Diesel Fuel are performance specifications and trademarks designed and supported by several major automakers. BMW, General Motors, Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, Ford, Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, Navistar, and Audi support the gasoline standard, while General Motors, Volkswagen, Detroit Diesel, and Navistar support the diesel standard (as of 2018). Each of these automakers recommends the use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline in their owner's manuals. Top Tier fuels must maintain levels of detergent additives that result in a higher standard of engine cleanliness and performance as compared to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requirement. In addition, Top Tier fuels may not contain metallic additives, which can harm the vehicle emission system and create pollutants. As of 2018, Top Tier Detergent Gasoline is available from 61 licensed retail brands and Top Tier Diesel Fuel is available from 5 licensed retail brands.

Licensed Top Tier fuel retailers use a higher level of detergent additives compared to other non Top Tier retailers using only the minimum EPA required detergent additives in order to help prevent the buildup of harmful engine deposits which may reduce fuel economy and optimal engine performance. According to an automotive industry spokesman, the regular use of this type of gasoline results in improved engine life.[1]

The Top Tier standards must apply to all grades of gasoline or diesel that a company sells, whether it is economy (low-octane) or premium (high-octane).[2]


Link to who is Top Tier brands:

https://www.toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/



Oil– In 1998 when the more modern engines came into play with more modern engine metals and design, Zinc additive was reduced in the oils, then reduced again in the 2000's. Our older engines now suffer as a result. The internet can explain all that much better than I, so here are a few links:


https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/cla...ar-protection/

https://rislone.com/uncategorized/zi...s-your-engine/

https://www.aa1car.com/library/zddp.htm



Please chime in to correct me,or offer any of your opinions. I only want the best for my car’s lubricants as you do also. That includes gas, engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end gear fluid, power steering fluid, grease – did I miss any?

 

the XJ-6 up to 1987 was designed to run on 87 octane and that is what I use. Higher octane fuel is a waste of money.

for oil I use Castrol 20W50 mineral oil and nothing else.

for coolant I use Prestone,
for brake fluid Castrol Dot 3 or 4 can't remember unless I pull the can.
for power steering fluid I use Prestone Power Steering fluid with anti-leak which may be repackaged transmission fluid for all I know.

 

Top Tier versus NOT Top Tier has nothing to do with octane rating. It has to do with detergent levels.

Bill

 

I agree about the "top tier". I only use major brands of gas which are top tier. No-name is often 5 cents cheaper here but never in my cars. As to oil, I had read that about oil but I rarely get to 3000 rpm and I change my oil every summer which is less than 2000 miles for each car so I just use whichever name brand oil of the proper viscosity is on sale. I tend to get yet another cool car and sell the one I have had for a couple years so long term life of cars really is not at the top of my list.

 

I don't think they sell anything but "Top Tier" in Canada. Esso, Shell, Chevron, Mobil.

I have always liked Castrol and use 20W50 on my series 1. The late Irv Gordon, the guy who drove a Volvo P1800 3.2 million miles before he passed away, swore by Castrol.

 

The big reason engine oils used to have quite a bit (relatively) of zinc was because is was very beneficial for the longevity of flat tappet cams. Mid 90's, or so, most manufacturers were going to roller lifters which didn't have the extreme shear between the cam lobe and lifter. Zinc is also hazardous to your health, along with drinking too much water, driving without a seat belt, running with scissors and a bunch of other stuff. Today, engine oils with more zinc are still available and are recommended for those people who are rebuilding an engine with flat tappet cams. These oils are sold by several "hot rod" brands as break-in oil.

I believe in synthetic oils for the entire drive train. I use Amsoil exclusively in everything for my one-ton Duramax diesel. Don't use a synthetic (anyone's) as a break-in oil though, it's too slippery and won't allow pistons/ring to seat properly. After a couple of oil changes (3000-4000mi) using "dinosaur oil", then change to a synthetic if you want. Non-synthetic oils are certainly fine in daily drivers and "regular" vehicles. I have a 2004 Suburban and 2005 Tahoe that get the factory recommended 5w-30 (Chevron, in my case) and have 162,000mi and 145,000mi respectively.
I think there is only one gasoline supplier in Alaska, every station sells that product. Too expensive to ship gasoline up here. What's that you say?...….we should be swimming in oil and gas with the famous North Slope oil fields up north. Heh, heh, heh, not us. We have to sell it to other countries/states and then buy back the processed product

Other products I use are just standard brand-name stuff.

Dave

 

How much suffering is going or, or how severe it might be, in real world terms, is subject to some debate.

To hedge bets, though, zinc additives are readily available....which is what I use, albeit with a "can't hurt, might help" shrug of the shoulders

Quote:

Please chime in to correct me,or offer any of your opinions. I only want the best for my car’s lubricants as you do also. That includes gas, engine oil, transmission fluid, rear end gear fluid, power steering fluid, grease – did I miss any?

"The best" can get expensive.

Our oldie Jags don't require anything exotic. I think the owners get a lot of satisfaction from using special products. The cars themselves? Well, they'e not connoisseurs.



Cheers
DD

 

More specifically, zinc is very harmful to catalytic converters. That was the primary motivation in reducing it.

Manufacturers were/are required to warrant cat converters for 50k mile and, later to 80k miles. Zinc hurts converters. Meanwhile, engine technology changed and there was less need for zinc. So, as the story goes (ha ha), the car manufacturers sorta colluded with the oil companies and said "Hey, fellas, it would help us a lot of you stopped using so much zinc. It's hard on the cats and the need for it is shrinking anyway".

As I recall it was about 15 years ago

Cheers
DD

 

I try to avoid gasoline (petrol) with ethanol in. However, here in UK it is all now designated E5 i.e. 5 percent ethanol. It is only recently that I have noticed the pumps labelled 'E5'.

This level of ethanol isn't good for all the old fuel lines. I am in the middle of replacing all mine.

The UK government is considering making only E10 (so 10 percent ethanol) available which will be even worse. I use Shell where possible as I have been sucked in by their UK loyalty scheme.

 

With 4 "hungry mouths" to feed I go through a Lot of gas in a month, 98% of it Top Tier coming from my local COSTCO, who are very proud of their gas and regularly post lab results to justify that pride.

Only Nix gets a shot of zinc additive in her oil (Mobile1, 15/50) as she has my oldest power plant, created in those halcyon days of yore when only specialty Hot Rod engines were given roller lifters (even my newish work truck engine only requires The Usual lubrication). And, as Doug mentions, it can't hurt.

Power Steering fluid: Valvoline Max Life with leak protection. (Mostly because I like the RED bottle)
Transmission fluid: Super Tech Type F as recommended by my friend Ned Spath who builds transmissions for a living.
(';')

 

Unlikely to cause you much, if any, problem. Even in '85 Jaguar said E10 was OK in the owners manuals. I've been running E10 in my old Jags for 20+ years now.

But changing your fuel lines is a great idea anyhow if they're 34 years old!

Cheers
DD

 

Hmmmm! But I see "no name" tankers delivering gas to "Brand" name gas stations.

 

Probably not significant; I'm pretty sure that not all major brands have or use their own transport companies. Now that you mention it, I can't even remember the last time I saw a branded gasoline tanker! This might be something that varies from region to region?

Not that I've researched it but I've long been under the impression that, typically, gasoline goes from the refineries to distribution centers unbranded. It then becomes Shell, Union 76, Chevron, or whatever, when brand-specific additive packages are added.

Cheers
DD

 

Yeah, I think Doug's explanation is about the best. We saw a major storage station have a major conflagration. Many big tanks, not a refinery. the involved tanks, ethanol. All of our gas is ethanol enfused!! lady tanker driver just took on a load and was on her way to deliver to various "gas stations".

My two old critters get along with Ethanol enfused 87 octane.. The station I usually frequent just switched from Shell to a private brand. No consequence to me that I am aware of., It has and has undergone several "rebadgings" .

I've used CARQUEST or Valvoline for decades. Same stuff. 20-50 is fine for this mild climate.

Son is more picky for Cummins diesel or the ancient forlk lifts. Racers oil. Zinc enfused.

My one banger yard machines are more fussy as to ethanol enfused fuel.

Carl.. . ..

 

I've not heard mention yet about the rear end gear oil. I know it should be 90 weight, but no where can I find how much the diff holds?

Bill

 

A bit more than two USA quarts as I recall. Buy three quarts.

Edit: I stand corrected. The ROM says 3.25 US pints, which would be 1.8 USA quarts

Cheers
DD

 

Doug is quite correct. All gasoline leaves the refinery unbranded but with the correct octane ratings.
Each brand then add their respective additives/detergents.

 

Aye, at the "loading dock"..

Learned amongst other things in an invcestihtion of a loading explosion that severely burned a driver...

 

I learned a lesson decades ago that I don't really associate with the technical definition of Top Tier, but did make a difference. Back in high school and college in the 80s, as poor student trying to save money any way I could, I would buy the cheapest gas at the no-name brand stations. In two years, I rebuilt my carburetor seven times, replaced it twice and installed multiple in-line fuel filters in an effort to keep the crap out of the carb. I had put one of those glass sediment bowl type filters on the firewall and about every two weeks I would dump the muck out of it. Then, as they do when you reach a certain age, the credit card companies started sending me offers. So I filled out an application for an Exxon gas card and started buying my gasoline only from Exxon stations. I drove that car another three years of college plus three years beyond and never had to touch the carburetor ever again and I never had to dump the muck out of the sediment bowl filter ever again.

Many years later I bought a small fishing boat that had sat unused for a couple of years. Knowing nothing about outboard motors at the time, I paid a marina to recommission it, basically to redo the whole fuel system. The mechanic gave me some sage advice that more or less confirmed what I already knew and I apply the same strategy to my classic cars. He told me that the two reasons that people have so much trouble with their boat motors is that they fill the tank completely with cheap gas and then don't use them very much. He advised me to only buy gas from Exxon or Chevron (his recommendations) because it had additives that helped keep it from coagulating and because you could rely on it actually containing those additives. He said that even some name-brand gasoline stations like Texaco only lease the name and credit card processing and let the station owner buy gas from other suppliers. This was back in the 90s before I'd ever heard of "Top Tier" gasolines. I have no idea if that's the situation with Texaco today but I suspect it is with some gasoline brands. And second, my boat had a relatively large 16 gallon tank for a relatively small 85hp Suzuki, so he told me not to fill the tank to the top at the beginning of the season or I'd still have half a tank left at the end of the season. Instead he told me to only keep it about half full and each time I went out to put only a couple of gallons of fresh fuel in, just enough to replace what I'd used the last time. That way I'd keep the fuel supply fresher. Contrary to all the stories you hear about boats, I never had any trouble whatsoever and sold it after eight years for twice what I paid and I still kind of miss it (tho classic cars are a better hobby).

I think the main reason we don't see as much issue with poor quality fuels today as we used to is fuel injection. A system that forcibly injects fuel at 30-40psi is less susceptible to clogging than an old carburetted engine operating at 5-7psi and relying on the venturi effect to suck fuel through tiny orifices. I sure dumped a lot of muck out of my glass sediment bowl back in the day. I suspect that even the cheap fuels started out clean, but in the process of transporting and storing, particularly underground storage tanks at the dilapidated old stations, that's probably where it was getting contaminated. So today, I look to see if the station at least looks generally well-maintained.

The fuel itself mostly all comes from the same places regardless of brand now. There are extra additives in the Top Tier fuels that can make a difference, but probably much more so to classic cars that don't get driven much. Although, you can buy preservatives like Sta-bil or Mechanic-in-a-bottle and add to the fuel yourself also. Still, much over a year is stretching it for fuel freshness so you don't want to buy more than you will use before it gets stale. Do you really need to keep a full tank to prevent rust? I don't worry about it here in Fort Worth because our humidity stays pretty low most of the time anyway. I have old Corvettes with large fill caps that I can see the whole inside of the tank with a mirror and the tank walls stay pristine. It may be a consideration for wetter climates, but then you need to make sure that you actually USE all your fuel before it goes bad.

 

I dont use my 1980 XJ6 much, so I only use 87 octane NON ethanol fuel.
Ethanol becomes a real problem as it ages and I dont need anymore problems than I already have.
I switched NON ethanol several years ago for all my seasonal engines like mowers and such.
Its more cost effective to use the more expensive fuel than to spend $100 each year to service all my power tools.
As for oil I use Mobil 20-50w, but thats getting hard to find.
As for grease I use a Lithium No 2 base grease, any big name manufacturer.
And I lube all my doors, hinges and cables with KANO's Kroil.

Bobmo