Windshiel and back window seals
#1
Windshiel and back window seals
Hi to all, I am now to the forum and the Jaguar world, just got a 1985 XJ6 and I need to take care of some rust around the front and rear glass, so my question is, where is the best place to buy this? What exactly will I need? And by this I mean how many seals are needed in total . Do I need to take off the glass or just the molding? I have seen some kits that include 3 seals per side, but then they list another seal for the glass. I want to get all the seals needed to do the job right.
TIA
Alfredo
TIA
Alfredo
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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Alfredo, first, be aware that none of the rubber parts around the glass are 'seals' . The glass-to-body sealing is accomplished by urethane adhesive (or whatever product the factory used) when the glass was installed.
The rubber parts merely serve to close out the gap between the glass and the body, and to affix the (rather delicate) stainless steel trim.
The whole conglomeration serves as a water trap....and thus to oh-so-common rusting
Anyhow, you need all 3 pieces for both the front a rear glass. I think it's the same part number front-and-rear....but my memory is foggy. Any of 'the usual Jag suppliers' can get it for you. SNG Barrat, Coventry West, Motorcars Ltd, etc.
Be very gentle with the stainless trim. It bends if you simply look at it too harshly. Cut it out, don't pull it out.
I would count on removing the glass entirely. The rust is almost always worse that it appears from outside examination.
Cheers
DD
The rubber parts merely serve to close out the gap between the glass and the body, and to affix the (rather delicate) stainless steel trim.
The whole conglomeration serves as a water trap....and thus to oh-so-common rusting
Anyhow, you need all 3 pieces for both the front a rear glass. I think it's the same part number front-and-rear....but my memory is foggy. Any of 'the usual Jag suppliers' can get it for you. SNG Barrat, Coventry West, Motorcars Ltd, etc.
Be very gentle with the stainless trim. It bends if you simply look at it too harshly. Cut it out, don't pull it out.
I would count on removing the glass entirely. The rust is almost always worse that it appears from outside examination.
Cheers
DD
#4
vandals smashed my rear window and i got the window from everydayxj.com and the rubbers from Welsch each for a reasonable cost. If you live in a city with access to an xj6 in a junkyard, I'd look there first since shipping glass adds hassle and cost but again over at everydayxj, I was able to get what I needed even without access to a junkyard.
again, be very careful with stainless steel parts - they don't even have individual CAC part numbers so replacing one little piece if you lost it would be well.. not impossible but i wouldn't want to have to try.
hope that helps!
again, be very careful with stainless steel parts - they don't even have individual CAC part numbers so replacing one little piece if you lost it would be well.. not impossible but i wouldn't want to have to try.
hope that helps!
#5
and be careful with the headliner, easy to damage it or stain it. Remove the two "C" pillar panels on each side of the rear windshield, they just pry out with spring clips.
then insert a vinyl curtain (yes a $2.00 bathtub curtain at Dollar General ) over the end of the headliner pad and fold it over towards the center of the car. Keep it there with painter's masking tape. Do it at the front and rear.
removing the rearview mirror is a pain, so don't try it unless you have a spare metal bracket. They break when removing the mirror.
then insert a vinyl curtain (yes a $2.00 bathtub curtain at Dollar General ) over the end of the headliner pad and fold it over towards the center of the car. Keep it there with painter's masking tape. Do it at the front and rear.
removing the rearview mirror is a pain, so don't try it unless you have a spare metal bracket. They break when removing the mirror.
#6
Back on topic......
....anyhow. I had both my screens sorted last year. Rubbers are cheap and easy to get. The metal inserts however are few and far between and are very expensive. I recommend removing sufficient interior trim to access the rubber from the inside and cut it off the body lip there. If needed run a blade around from the inside to try to cut the glue too. Then slowly and carefully push the whole lot out as one. Then remove the metal strips on the benxh. It's much quicker and less risk of damage. We spent litteraly days cutting the front from the outside before eventually bending a metal piece. I tried the method aboive on the rear and again three times in a scrapyard on donor cars. If the car is particularly bad it will almost fall out once the bead is cut. One or two of the beads can be pulled out from outside easily too. Do this before you start pushing if possible. Good luck.
#7
It is almost certain that you will have to let in new metal at the lower corners of the front windshield as this is where the water collects. The rear may be better. Don't put the screens back in until all rust has been eliminated and the aperture painted. A zinc rich primer will assist the life of the metal once the screen is back in.
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