I've had a long running steering fluid leak which has required regular topping up. I've tracked the leak down to the actual rack /bellows area and am looking at the prospect of swapping the whole rack out with the one from my donor car, which never leaked. ( However, this has been parked up and unused for a few years now!)


Anyway, the plan is to overhaul my leaking rack with new seals and whatever else might be needed and then replace it, or simply, overhaul my donor rack and just do the one swap.


So, is removal a simple nut and bolt job with anything special to be aware of, any "do's" and "dont's" and any thought on what would be needed to do a complete overhaul/rebuild?


This plan is still only in its' infancy, so I haven't looked at any parts diagrams or the like, yet. Thanks in advance.

 

Hi sogood,

Replacing the steering rack is pretty straightforward. I can think of a few tips that may be helpful:

Before you begin, center the front wheels on both cars.

Raise the car and support both sides on jack stands under the jacking points so you will have free access to all parts of the rack.

Take care disconnecting the hydraulic hoses. Use a flare nut wrench if available to avoid rounding the hex on the fittings. Note that the fittings do not need to be very tight to seal properly. Have a bucket ready to catch the fluid that will drain out.

If you are going to swap outer tie rod ends, count the number of revolutions required to remove each tie rod end, then turn them the same number of revolutions when installing them on the replacement rack. That will get you close to correct alignment (you'll still need to have a real alignment after the replacement rack is installed).

To bleed the system after the replacement rack is installed, fill the reservoir with fluid, run the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth from lock to lock a few times until it moves freely and smoothly throughout its entire range. Top up the fluid.

The alignment shop can make adjustments to center your steering wheel if it is off a little after their first try. If they can't get it just right, you can remove the airbag and steering wheel and center it perfectly using the fine spline teeth on the steering column. See the photos near the end of this album showing our '93 XJ40:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

And this album showing Max's X308:

XJ8 HALF WOOD WHEEL CHANGE Photo Gallery by Max Heazlewood at pbase.com


Also, if you'd like your steering to be a little tighter, consider making some stiffening bushes like those that came on some of the XJR and XJR-S models:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...es-diy-134396/

I'm sure I've forgotten something so hopefully others will offer additional thoughts.

Cheers,

Don

 

One suggestion I might add is to tie the steering wheel at the neutral position, or at least make sure you do know where that position was if you have to move the wheel to remove the coupling bolt. Otherwise, if you loose track of which turn of the wheel you are on, you can damage the "clockspring" conductor.

 

Don B, my rack is fine but I've been wondering about the sheer fun factor of getting an XJR rack for my XJ6 as well as Andy's drop links. I pay a mechanic to do the work. Advice?

Rack from XKR first? Andy drop links first?

City driving XJ6 aficionado here...

 

Hi weisberg,

I don't have any direct experience on which to base an opinion.

From what I understand, the "R" racks have the same number of turns from lock-to-lock as the standard racks (2.8), but may be valved differently for less assist/more road feel. They may also have come from the factory with the stiffening bushes I describe in the post I linked to earlier.

Also, since the Servotronic variable speed assist Steering Control Modules for the Sports and Standard Duty suspensions have different part numbers, I would assume they may have been calibrated differently. However, the Sports control module, part number LNA2100CB, now supersedes to the Standard Duty control module, LNA2100BB, so you'd have to source a good salvaged module.

If you're looking for a little more stiffness on initial turn-in, Andy's drop links along with the rack stiffening bushes will probably make a noticeable difference.

Are you running tires with correct sidewall stiffness (V, W or Z speed rated?) and good steering response? The right tire choice can have as much impact as minor suspension upgrades, and the wrong tire can undermine even significant suspension tuning.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the responses guys. So I can take it that the removal of the rack is a pretty straightforward "nut and bolt" job with no hidden surprises?


Would there be any thoughts or recommendations on a rebuild kit for the rack itself and any special tools required? Has anyone done a rebuild/refurb on a steering rack specifically?


Any thoughts welcome and appreciated.


Thanks again.

 

Hi sogood,

Over the years a number of Jaguar forum members have rebuilt their steering racks, so it is possible if you can source the necessary parts. From what I understand, if any specialized tools are required it is possible to improvise without them.

Here are some photos from an owner who rebuilt the Adwest rack in his XJ40:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ebuild-109815/

The ZF Servotronic rack in your X300 is a little more complicated but the principles are similar. With a little searching you may find some photos either in this forum, the U.K. forum, or Jag-Lovers.org.

Here's a rebuild manual, if it will help you decide:

http://forum.bmwland.ru/index.php?ac...=post&id=26967

Cheers,

Don

 

Sogood.
I'm curious if you ever did swap out the steering rack and how did it it go? I'm looking at doing the same with mine.
Thanks for any update

 

Hi BigBoss,


I haven't done the steering rack yet as I'm waiting for some downtime, probably towards the end of the year. It's just how I work that makes the Summer very busy. I want to give the car a good going over and tackle a "to do" list that's growing daily!


Including: New plugs, change all fluids/oils, new coolant hoses, rear brake lines (did the front already) new belts, new fuel and air filters, solder the bad joint on my ABS unit and likewise with my CD player (which sometimes displays the "NOT CONT" message and goes awol).


But I will record and photograph the rack change and rebuild and post the details on here in due course.

 

Wow That is a long list you have . I look forward to seeing the pictures when you are finished.
Thanks Again