I took my Jag for a Warrant if Fitness (WOF in New Zealand), which I guess is the same sort of thing as a MOT in the UK. Anyway, she failed the test.

Some basic things, like an turn signal and a number plate light not working, simple clean, lubricate and adjust sockets fixed them.

Also the left steering rack boot has split and needs replacing, looks fairly easy (famous last words i know)

Now, the problem bits that I don't know what to do with (but I bet Elenor knows) are as follows:

1) Make the hand brake work better?? There is no tension on the cable until the last inch of movement of the handle

2) There is brake fluid leaking from one of the rear caliper area, getting on the disc and the caliper

3) Both rear wheel bearings are a bit noisy and excessive play.


So, how do I adjust the handbrake?, is there a way like most other cars to grease pack and tighten the rear bearings, and what could be causing the leak near the brakes?

I don't have a hoist, or ramps, and I don't feel too comfortable getting under it with just a jack and an axel stand or two.

just another note, I am trying to sell her, and can't spend much cash at all on it. If it is going to be too dificuilt for me, i might leave some of it for the next owner (informed at time of sale of course).

Any and all help is appreciated.

Cheers,
Richard.

 

There is a conventional cable adjustment under the car ....worth trying. However, more often than not the problem is with the parking brake calipers themselves. Remove, disassemble, clean, lubricate. Bit tricky getting them removed with the rear cage in place, but doable




Caliper needs to be removed for replacement or overhaul. Doable with the cage in place; easier with the cage removed. if your on a budget and want to fix only the one leaking caliper....and avoid the usual "While I'm at it...." mission creep, then you might as well just leave the cage in place and do battle with the caliper.




Can't be adjusted in the sense you are thinking of. No choice but to replace 'em, a rather big job in and of itself plus the bearings must be shimmed for proper clearance....time consuming.



Cheers
DD

 

Yea hand brake is easy but could be seized. Mine was not so good, it was seized and needed alot of work. Rotors are normally completely gone as are brake pads as no one wants to pay the money to get em changed.

My xj6 currently has no WOF so I'm working on that. Need to find a good place in Auckland that understands old cars haha. Any Auckland locals know of such a place? Not looking for a dodgy WOF I just don't wanna get stung with the usual silly excuses mechanics give you for a fail so they can fix ya car.

You'd be lucky to get that though a WOF with out spending some money. Are you Auckland based?

 

Harry, I am in Masterton, Wairarapa. I went to an older mechanic because he has a reputation of liking and understanding older cars. VTNZ hate old cars, and pick on every little problem and treat them as if they are a modern car. I have always vowed that if a garage fails me and says I need this and that, I get it done somewhere else or do it myself, and I tell them that when I drop the vehicle off, so they know that I won't give them any extra money, so they usually don't find things wrong that aren't.

Find an old guy, and follow what I do. Good luck.

 

Great advice Richard, I'll certainly do that. Just gotta find the right guy. Thanks mate!

 

As to the rear bearings. Given your situation, the possible answer is finding good used replacement units.


Although, I've never tried t, pad change on the IRS is far more doable n situ than caliper change. I did do the front ones in my car. Much easier, I am sure. Not bad atall.


I farmed out the caliper change. At my age, I don't always realize it ain't what it once was!!! Although the job supposedly included pads for the e brake, it used to work sorta. Now, not at all. Yeah, the last time I was under, the cable was slack, so....


I've worked under it using a good trolley jack and good stands on hard concrete. I've learned that asphalt needs more precautions. The stand legs bite in!!!!
I prefer my rams when possible. And, a wheel chocked front and back.
Just work slowly and precisely and think and it can be done, safely.


VW's used to have after market split boots for the half shafts. I wonder if such a thing exists for a steering rack on these cars???


Or, disclose and sell and find a better example??? Going to lighten the bill fold either way!!


Carl

 

About the split boot.

I just changed the front tie rod. It is pretty easy and there are some great online videos on youtube if you did get stuck.

However, see the pic of the clips.

I just assumed they'd be available but when I called SNG they said not. I used zip ties on the boot which do work fine but whether an inspector would agree, I don't know.

The smaller one you can get off without damage if you do a better job than I did but the bigger one is sacrificial. If SNG are right, and a zip tie wouldn't be code, you'll want to look out a good quality clip that'll work there.

 

SAVE YOUR OLD CLIPS!!
Straighten them out if you must, because the clips that came for my S3 rack didn't fit by a good 1/4 inch!

Husband straightened the old ones and put them back on.
(';')

 

Hi Elinor, but how did you get the larger back one off without breaking it?

I'm certainly taking your advice about the small front one and I'll straighten it.

Cheers

 

Do you think that the typical worm screw hose clamps will do the trick??

 

Husband got a small pliers in the crimp and sort of uncrimped it and straightened it. After that it was easy to undo the gripper things and take them off. Watch your fingers, those clamps have a Gazillion sharp knives on them!

I actually had to dig the old ones out of the trash because the new ones just would not go around the inner part of the new boot no matter what I did.


Notice the difference in circumference. It's not a lot, just enough to drive you completely bonkers if you try to use your new clamps and they're of different sizes like these were.
(';')

 

"Do you think that the typical worm screw hose clamps will do the trick??"

There might be enough room but standard issue ones are a lot wider than the narrow clip that is stock on these cars.

I'm impressed by Elinor's nifty trick of getting the back one off without breaking it and that's probably the best way to go so as to not fall foul of an inspector. You'll need to take the wheel off and reach in; it'll be fiddly b/c the clip is set back aways on the rear of the boot. You'll also need to take off the tie rod end: there are all sorts of tricks online about how to do that and not screw up your alignment. I thought how this guy did it was pretty cool.
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-001

 

The clamp fits into a depression specifically intended for it, Richard. Standard hose clamps are too wide to fit, and if you try anyway (at least on the boots we got) part of the boot is deformed with unknown consequences to the structures underneath.
(';')

 

Thank you for the complement. We have a lot of tools here, but sometimes the most common things work best.

That trick only works if the threads and lengths are the same between the old and new tie rods. Ours were Vastly different.

So we laid the new and old rods side by side using combination squares on the ends and compared lengths. Then put blue tape to show the proper length and transfer that length to the new rods.


It worked just fine. Today I put on 30 miles with no glaring alignment problems.
(';')

 

30 Miles in Nix. Wahoo, she lives. Totally legal now or was that the testing stuff??

 

Thank you, Richard, Yes, Nix lives.
However, of necessity this turned out to be merely a test run, as her idle mixture failed Magnificently so she's back in her stall waiting for Tuesday.
(';')

 

My boots are also held on with zip ties and the car did have a warrant when I brought the thing, So I guess it might be ok, I would think it would be unreasonable to fail a warrant of fitness because you had a zip tie on your boot.