If you remove the AAV to clean, use a hair dryer on it and watch to see if the sliding valve inside moves with heat and then moves back when cooling.

 

Well that did no good... Sadly.

I verified the bosch coil is good. I'm getting 3.2 ohms on the meter. I rechecked the wires leading to and from the coil to ensure that they are in good condition. I repaired a cracked green wire just to ensure it wasn't grounding or doing who knows what.

My battery now appears that all the cranking and charging I've done over the past few days has worn out the battery.

Could a bad battery be the culprit? I replaced the alternator at the start of all this work.

My old coil had a crack in it and was actually causing a short. I had a spare coil so I put that in and the car ran as normal for 12hrs. I had not yet installed the new alternator at this point.

I was able to drive the car home and at high rpm and it ran fine. As soon as rpm dropped below 2200 it died. I'm going to get a battery and I'll report back.

 

Well I never, I just looked at your car, and it has identical year, paint and trim to the one I had from 1988-2002.

And, I am sorry to say, it was just about the worst built car I ever owned !! It took me 10 years to sort out what Jaguar had built so badly. I do hope you don't have to spend 10 years sorting the car out, and as you've got the car running for 12 hours, you seem to be on the down slope to success.

So I wish you every success in your search for reliability and driveability. Once you get these cars sorted, there is nothing quite like them for the driving experience. A Magic Carpet is the closest description.

 

It's FIXED....

My buddy who's an air cooled 911 mechanic came over today and we went through the wiring in the car. We checked all pins on the ECU.

Turns out the ECU wasn't getting 12v from the main relay as the ignition wasn't sending power to the relay. We pulled the ignition and checked. Sure enough that's the fault.

I thank this forum for all the ample information and wiring/manuals etc. I'm glad the car is working as I really like it....

Cheers... Adam

 

Good work !


Cheers
DD

 

Hi Adan its a bit of a long shot as it was so long ago. I have the same problem as you and im losing the will to live after replacing stuff.. Can you tell me what you actually replaced to fis the fault.. Regards Paul

 

Welcome to the forum Paul,

You MAY be lucky but Eurowerks was last logged in on the forum in March 2015.

Graham

 

The old post says “….. pulled the ignition…” which sorta sounds like a reference to the ignition switch. And ignition switch failures are common in these cars as the years turn into decades


Cheers
DD

 

Wow! This gives me such hope. I am at wits end on my no start issue an all thing point to ECU... I have NO fuel to cylinders and am convinced ground signal to injector ECU side of injector not happening. Have checked ALL continuity of wires to ECU... But never actually tested for power to the ECU 😳😳😳

But I am confused on your specific case. If you had no power to ECU, how could it even run for 5s????

Mine is just crank, crank, crank no run. But runs just fine on starter fluid or dram'ing cylinders

Thanks for hope😂

 

Just in case you didn’t notice…..
At the rear of the water rail is a bundle of ground wires. The entire fuel injection system grounds at this point. Make sure all the wires are clean and tight.

Cheers
DD

 

As for power supply to the ECU…..

One of the relays on the firewall is the “Main Relay”. I don’t have the diagrams in front of me but from memory it’ll have two brown/slate wires, one to power the injectors (via the ballast) and the other to power the ECU.

The trigger wire from the ignition switch is probably white.

Also check for clean connections at the injector ballast

Cheers
DD

 

engine starts and runs for 5 seconds after starting then dies...

try substituting ignition switch,

I had that symptom with my '84 and after wasting days and throwing new parts at the problem, came Mr. Guru who brought an ignition switch with him. Substitution followed and no more problema ever since.

 

Thank you for your replys. Are we talking a relay or the actual ignition switch.? Sorry to be daft. But im getting pretty fed up.. 😁

 

Need to point out.

​​​​​​My Jag is a 1994 AJ6 XJS.. Im hoping the same applies to my car.

 

the ignition switch is a one-piece assembly complete with wires and a vulcanized plug that connects to the main harness.

there are two tiny phillips screws and thin purple wires that must be loosened.

there might be accessories connected to the switch's brown wire, like the radio 12 volt yellow wire.

just make notes of any wires tapped to the ignition switch wires.

Contact David at www.everydayxj.com for a good used switch.. Even if it doesn't resolve this specific problem you are having, it is an important spare part to have.

 

then you have posted in the wrong forum. You need the XJ-S forum.

 

Gah.

Still might be a problem with the ignition switch itself but you can disregard anything else I wrote

DD

 

Sorry if ive wasted time, i originally typed in Xjs not running for more than a minute or two.. If i release the fuel rail feed it starts to run better..bloody tjing is driving me mad..

 

no problem man, your 1994 Jaguar is a different Generation and Model than the cars discussed in this forum (XJ-6 Series 3 up to 1987 and XJ-12 Series 3 up to 1992).

you will get better help in the XJ-S forum.