1985 Jaguar XJ6 - Won't Start!
#1
10-15-2009, 04:44 PM
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1985 Jaguar XJ6 - Won't Start!
Ok, it's been about a year or so since I've been here. I thought I had a grasp on things, but I don't, so I'm turning to you for some help.
Jag turns, but fails to start...been sitting for 8 months.
Here's what I've done:
* Replaced Fuel regulator
* Replaced Fuel Pump
* Replaced Fuel Filter
* Replaced Spark Plugs
* Replaced Alternator
* Replaced Distributor Cap & Rotor
* Removed Fuel Injectors & cleaned them
* Emptied Gas Tanks (yes there's new gas in it)
* Flushed Fuel Lines
Now I did have the car towed to a local garage to have the exhast system repaired (leaking before cat. conv.), but have never been able to restart the car since I got it back.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
**Note**
The last time I had the car on the road was when I had taken my wife out to eat & coming home the front part of the exhaust came loose & started dragging the ground. We pulled over & shut the car off, ran across street to get a coat hanger from the neighbor & tied the exhaust up, restarted the car & drove it straight home (2 miles). We shut the car off & had never been able to restart since (even before we took it to the local garage for exhaust repairs).
If there is anything you can suggest that I haven't mentioned, please feel free to email me or reply to post:
gwlones@comcast.net
Jag turns, but fails to start...been sitting for 8 months.
Here's what I've done:
* Replaced Fuel regulator
* Replaced Fuel Pump
* Replaced Fuel Filter
* Replaced Spark Plugs
* Replaced Alternator
* Replaced Distributor Cap & Rotor
* Removed Fuel Injectors & cleaned them
* Emptied Gas Tanks (yes there's new gas in it)
* Flushed Fuel Lines
Now I did have the car towed to a local garage to have the exhast system repaired (leaking before cat. conv.), but have never been able to restart the car since I got it back.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
**Note**
The last time I had the car on the road was when I had taken my wife out to eat & coming home the front part of the exhaust came loose & started dragging the ground. We pulled over & shut the car off, ran across street to get a coat hanger from the neighbor & tied the exhaust up, restarted the car & drove it straight home (2 miles). We shut the car off & had never been able to restart since (even before we took it to the local garage for exhaust repairs).
If there is anything you can suggest that I haven't mentioned, please feel free to email me or reply to post:
gwlones@comcast.net
#2
10-16-2009, 08:35 AM
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A longer write-up follows below but A) Do you have spark? B) Do you have fuel pressure C) Do you have voltage to the injectors?
This is a basic “do it yourself” checklist which assumes you have minimal tools and test equipment and that your Jag which ran well yesterday won’t start this morning. You will need basic hand tools, a 12-volt test light, and a jumper wire with alligator clips. I believe this info to be accurate for all 4.2 SerIII cars but the very earliest models may vary slightly.
1) Check for spark. You can buy a spark tester at any parts store which looks something like a sparkplug with an alligator clamp attached If you have one, fine. If not, remove a sparkplug wire and insert a screwdriver into the boot so that it contacts the terminal inside. Hold the screwdriver by the handle and position it about 1/4” from a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine over and watch for a spark to jump the 1/4” gap. If you have a spark, skip to Step 6. If no spark, see step 2.
2) Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap, insert screwdriver as mentioned above, and hold it about 1/4” from a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine over. If no spark, see step 3. If you DO have spark here then you have a faulty cap and/or rotor (spark is getting to the distributor cap but not getting to the sparkplugs). Remove the distributor cap and peek inside. Look for a burned center terminal, burned terminals to the plugs, cracks, or carbon tracks between the terminals. Inspect the rotor contact. If it’s bad enough to create a “no start” you’ll see obvious burning and/or disintegration of the contact.
3) If you don’t have spark at the coil wire-to-distributor cap, then check for power getting to the ignition coil. Power here comes directly from the ignition switch via a white wire. If you have a ballast resistor, the wire will go there first. If no resistor, this wire will go directly to the “+” post of the coil. Remove the white wire and, using the test light, check for 12 volts with the key on. If you have voltage, see step 4. If no voltage, you have an open circuit. This can be confirmed by running your jumper wire from the positive battery post to the coil or ballast. If the motor starts, you have confirmed the open circuit and must now look for a wiring fault or ignition switch fault.
4) If you have 12 volts at the ballast you must check for voltage coming out of the ballast. Reattach the white wire. Using your test light, check the other ballast terminal. If the ballast is good, your test light will light up but no too brightly--- the ballast has reduced the voltage as designed. If the ballast is “open” (no continuity) your test light won’t light up at all. If the ballast is OK (or you don’t have a ballast) then, with the key still “on”, check for voltage at both coil posts. If you have a ballast which checks good at both terminals but no voltage at the “+” coil post, then check for a wiring fault between the ballast and the coil. If you don’t have a ballast you should have voltage at the “+” coil post if your wiring is OK, as mentioned earlier. You should have voltage at the coil “-” post as well. If no voltage at the “-” post, you have a bad coil.
5) If everything checks good so far but you still have no spark then you’ve got an amplifier problem or distributor pick-up problem. Testing of these items is beyond the scope of this checklist (requiring an ohmmeter) but do check the wiring from the amplifier for breaks.
6) You’re here at this step because you’ve determined that your ignition system is working. Now we must check for fuel. First and easiest step is to check the inertia triggered cut-off switch. It is mounted at the extreme right side of the dashboard, just above the side kick panel. Press the reset button and then try starting the car. Still won’t start ? Read on. Use extreme caution here. Be prepared for some spilled fuel and have rags, a small container, and fire extinguisher handy. Disconnect fuel supply hose at the fuel rail (at the rear of later “straight rail” cars and at the bottom of the early “loop style” rails). Some fuel may spill, have rags and container handy. A properly operating pump will produce about 34 PSI so, again, be ready ! Position fuel hose so fuel will flow into the container. (As an alternative to using a container you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge, if you have one. The usual method of attaching a fuel pressure gauge is to leave the supply hose connected to the rail but disconnect the cold start injector nozzle and use it’s nipple on the fuel rail.)
7) Now, locate the fuel pump relay. It is mounted on the firewall right next to the red diode pack and has white, black, white/purple, and white/green wires attached. Remove the relay plug-in socket and determine which terminal cavity corresponds to the white/green wire. This wire goes right to the fuel pump. Using your jumper wire apply 12 volts to this wire for just a moment (you are bypassing the somewhat tricky control portion of this circuit). If the fuel pump is operational you’ll get an immediate and powerful surge of fuel through the hose. If the pump does not operate, either the pump is faulty or you have a wiring fault between the relay and the pump.
8) If the pump operates with a jumper wire, plug the connector back onto the relay. The fuel pump circuit is so designed that it will operate whenever the starter motor is engaged so go ahead and engage the starter and see if you get fuel. If “yes”, see Step 9. If “no”, see the “Fuel Pump Circuit Diagnosis” checklist.
9) Remove the air duct from the front of the Air Flow Meter (AFM). With the key “on”, move the air flap which is inside the housing of the AFM. This movement closes a switch inside the AFM and powers up the fuel pump circuit. You should get fuel in your container or a 34 PSI reading on your gauge. If not, see the “Fuel Pump Circuit Diagnosis” checklist. If you have spark and fuel but your engine still does not fire we’ll have to check for the third element of internal combustion: compression. See the “Compression Test” checklist. If compression is good and the car still won’t run then problems beyond the scope of this checklist must be diagnosed.
Cheers
DD
This is a basic “do it yourself” checklist which assumes you have minimal tools and test equipment and that your Jag which ran well yesterday won’t start this morning. You will need basic hand tools, a 12-volt test light, and a jumper wire with alligator clips. I believe this info to be accurate for all 4.2 SerIII cars but the very earliest models may vary slightly.
1) Check for spark. You can buy a spark tester at any parts store which looks something like a sparkplug with an alligator clamp attached If you have one, fine. If not, remove a sparkplug wire and insert a screwdriver into the boot so that it contacts the terminal inside. Hold the screwdriver by the handle and position it about 1/4” from a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine over and watch for a spark to jump the 1/4” gap. If you have a spark, skip to Step 6. If no spark, see step 2.
2) Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap, insert screwdriver as mentioned above, and hold it about 1/4” from a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine over. If no spark, see step 3. If you DO have spark here then you have a faulty cap and/or rotor (spark is getting to the distributor cap but not getting to the sparkplugs). Remove the distributor cap and peek inside. Look for a burned center terminal, burned terminals to the plugs, cracks, or carbon tracks between the terminals. Inspect the rotor contact. If it’s bad enough to create a “no start” you’ll see obvious burning and/or disintegration of the contact.
3) If you don’t have spark at the coil wire-to-distributor cap, then check for power getting to the ignition coil. Power here comes directly from the ignition switch via a white wire. If you have a ballast resistor, the wire will go there first. If no resistor, this wire will go directly to the “+” post of the coil. Remove the white wire and, using the test light, check for 12 volts with the key on. If you have voltage, see step 4. If no voltage, you have an open circuit. This can be confirmed by running your jumper wire from the positive battery post to the coil or ballast. If the motor starts, you have confirmed the open circuit and must now look for a wiring fault or ignition switch fault.
4) If you have 12 volts at the ballast you must check for voltage coming out of the ballast. Reattach the white wire. Using your test light, check the other ballast terminal. If the ballast is good, your test light will light up but no too brightly--- the ballast has reduced the voltage as designed. If the ballast is “open” (no continuity) your test light won’t light up at all. If the ballast is OK (or you don’t have a ballast) then, with the key still “on”, check for voltage at both coil posts. If you have a ballast which checks good at both terminals but no voltage at the “+” coil post, then check for a wiring fault between the ballast and the coil. If you don’t have a ballast you should have voltage at the “+” coil post if your wiring is OK, as mentioned earlier. You should have voltage at the coil “-” post as well. If no voltage at the “-” post, you have a bad coil.
5) If everything checks good so far but you still have no spark then you’ve got an amplifier problem or distributor pick-up problem. Testing of these items is beyond the scope of this checklist (requiring an ohmmeter) but do check the wiring from the amplifier for breaks.
6) You’re here at this step because you’ve determined that your ignition system is working. Now we must check for fuel. First and easiest step is to check the inertia triggered cut-off switch. It is mounted at the extreme right side of the dashboard, just above the side kick panel. Press the reset button and then try starting the car. Still won’t start ? Read on. Use extreme caution here. Be prepared for some spilled fuel and have rags, a small container, and fire extinguisher handy. Disconnect fuel supply hose at the fuel rail (at the rear of later “straight rail” cars and at the bottom of the early “loop style” rails). Some fuel may spill, have rags and container handy. A properly operating pump will produce about 34 PSI so, again, be ready ! Position fuel hose so fuel will flow into the container. (As an alternative to using a container you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge, if you have one. The usual method of attaching a fuel pressure gauge is to leave the supply hose connected to the rail but disconnect the cold start injector nozzle and use it’s nipple on the fuel rail.)
7) Now, locate the fuel pump relay. It is mounted on the firewall right next to the red diode pack and has white, black, white/purple, and white/green wires attached. Remove the relay plug-in socket and determine which terminal cavity corresponds to the white/green wire. This wire goes right to the fuel pump. Using your jumper wire apply 12 volts to this wire for just a moment (you are bypassing the somewhat tricky control portion of this circuit). If the fuel pump is operational you’ll get an immediate and powerful surge of fuel through the hose. If the pump does not operate, either the pump is faulty or you have a wiring fault between the relay and the pump.
8) If the pump operates with a jumper wire, plug the connector back onto the relay. The fuel pump circuit is so designed that it will operate whenever the starter motor is engaged so go ahead and engage the starter and see if you get fuel. If “yes”, see Step 9. If “no”, see the “Fuel Pump Circuit Diagnosis” checklist.
9) Remove the air duct from the front of the Air Flow Meter (AFM). With the key “on”, move the air flap which is inside the housing of the AFM. This movement closes a switch inside the AFM and powers up the fuel pump circuit. You should get fuel in your container or a 34 PSI reading on your gauge. If not, see the “Fuel Pump Circuit Diagnosis” checklist. If you have spark and fuel but your engine still does not fire we’ll have to check for the third element of internal combustion: compression. See the “Compression Test” checklist. If compression is good and the car still won’t run then problems beyond the scope of this checklist must be diagnosed.
Cheers
DD
#3
11-17-2009, 07:11 AM
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1985 Jaguar XJ6 FOR SALE $2000 CASH
Ok, tried everything mentioned in the last thread other than taking it to someone who actually knows what they are doing.
Car is for sale if anyone is interested. My wife & I are in love with this car, but are too frustrated to hang on to her. It is posted on Craig's list with pics.
http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/1439572949.html
Maybe you can get it running.
Car is for sale if anyone is interested. My wife & I are in love with this car, but are too frustrated to hang on to her. It is posted on Craig's list with pics.
http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/cto/1439572949.html
Maybe you can get it running.
#4
11-17-2009, 07:49 AM
Senior Member
Don't get hasty, gw. Even though it says it in the above mentioned post from Doug, double check the following:
Have you checked the ignition coil? The easiest way to check for spark is to pull the #1 (forward wire driver's side) plug wire off the plug, and hold it about 1/4" or less from the engine block, and have someone turn the car over. If there's a spark (BE CAREFUL, because if that spark touches YOU, it's gonna hurt), then all is good with your coil/distributor.
Next, check for fuel delivery (flushing doesn't always mean everything). Pull the fuel delivery hose from your injection line, hold a bowl under it, and have someone turn the key to ON. Fuel should start coming out of the line (since the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to the ON position). If no fuel, then go to the fuel tank and listen for the fuel pump to run. It will create a humming sound. If no sound, then either fuel pump or electrical connection is crap.
Also, undo one of your vacuum hoses or fuel line from the injector rail (someone else correct me in this, if this is the wrong place to do this), and shoot some starter fluid or carb cleaner into the system. That will help narrow your problem down, because the car should start up and run for a few seconds. Speaking of vacuum, you didn't mention anything about checking for vacuum leaks/pressure. Check to make sure the vacuum system is working properly, too. No vacuum, no gas into the injectors, means no running car, since the vacuum system is what pulls the fuel through the injectors and helps the ignition system.
Too bad I don't still live in Atlanta, or have the means to get your car to Albuquerque...I'd skip over to Myrtle Beach and try to help out. No reason to get rid of your darling, just because you can't get her running yet. There's got to be something you're over-looking.
Have you checked the ignition coil? The easiest way to check for spark is to pull the #1 (forward wire driver's side) plug wire off the plug, and hold it about 1/4" or less from the engine block, and have someone turn the car over. If there's a spark (BE CAREFUL, because if that spark touches YOU, it's gonna hurt), then all is good with your coil/distributor.
Next, check for fuel delivery (flushing doesn't always mean everything). Pull the fuel delivery hose from your injection line, hold a bowl under it, and have someone turn the key to ON. Fuel should start coming out of the line (since the fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to the ON position). If no fuel, then go to the fuel tank and listen for the fuel pump to run. It will create a humming sound. If no sound, then either fuel pump or electrical connection is crap.
Also, undo one of your vacuum hoses or fuel line from the injector rail (someone else correct me in this, if this is the wrong place to do this), and shoot some starter fluid or carb cleaner into the system. That will help narrow your problem down, because the car should start up and run for a few seconds. Speaking of vacuum, you didn't mention anything about checking for vacuum leaks/pressure. Check to make sure the vacuum system is working properly, too. No vacuum, no gas into the injectors, means no running car, since the vacuum system is what pulls the fuel through the injectors and helps the ignition system.
Too bad I don't still live in Atlanta, or have the means to get your car to Albuquerque...I'd skip over to Myrtle Beach and try to help out. No reason to get rid of your darling, just because you can't get her running yet. There's got to be something you're over-looking.
#5
12-01-2009, 03:00 PM
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Vacuum??
I appreciate the last thread. No offence to the first post, that this one was a little more helpful. I just spent a couple of hours removing the fuel injectors AGAIN to ensure there were no clogs. I figured since I had fuel going to the injectors & spark in my plugs & air intake clear that I would get fire...but I was wrong.
As far as the vacuum tube, where would I find that??
When I took the injectors out, I had my wife turn the key to start & the injectors were injecting...lol Each & everyone of them were misting (atomizing the gas).
I also sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake & the car started!
So I am hoping that the solution is something simple.
Any suggestions would be great!
You may also contact me by phone: 843-222-5170
Thanks!
As far as the vacuum tube, where would I find that??
When I took the injectors out, I had my wife turn the key to start & the injectors were injecting...lol Each & everyone of them were misting (atomizing the gas).
I also sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake & the car started!
So I am hoping that the solution is something simple.
Any suggestions would be great!
You may also contact me by phone: 843-222-5170
Thanks!
#6
12-01-2009, 03:41 PM
Senior Member
OK...NOW we're getting somewhere. The problem lies between your injectors and the intake...which means that you probably need to check your vacuum lines. The vacuum pulls the fuel from the injectors through the intake manifold into the cylinders.
The vacuum lines are going to be small (about 1/4" outer diameter), soft, black hoses that go into your intake manifold. I don't have a manual in front of me, so I can't tell you exactly where they are on your intake. They should lead to what's called the vacuum pump. Again, I have no idea what yours looks like, but it should be a bit smaller than a tennis ball, and have a round top on it. Pull the hose from the intake, and have your wife turn the key to START. Put your finger on the hose and see if you feel blowing or suction. If you do, then proceed to the next paragraph. If you don't then your vacuum pump could be out/faulty.
If you have vacuum pressure, you could have a clogged line on your fuel pressure regulator (you said you got a new one).
At any rate, vacuum would be my final guess. You need vacuum pressure to pull the fuel into the intake from the injectors.
The vacuum lines are going to be small (about 1/4" outer diameter), soft, black hoses that go into your intake manifold. I don't have a manual in front of me, so I can't tell you exactly where they are on your intake. They should lead to what's called the vacuum pump. Again, I have no idea what yours looks like, but it should be a bit smaller than a tennis ball, and have a round top on it. Pull the hose from the intake, and have your wife turn the key to START. Put your finger on the hose and see if you feel blowing or suction. If you do, then proceed to the next paragraph. If you don't then your vacuum pump could be out/faulty.
If you have vacuum pressure, you could have a clogged line on your fuel pressure regulator (you said you got a new one).
At any rate, vacuum would be my final guess. You need vacuum pressure to pull the fuel into the intake from the injectors.
#7
12-03-2009, 04:50 PM
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Alrighty then......I did have a line (Vacuum I think) that was off of the air injector pump. I put it back on, but still no action. (This air line goes from a pressure switch of some type connected to the air injector/vacuum pump & connects to the engine to the right of what I think is the air intake) I had the wife start the car while I checked to see if there was any pressure, but didn't feel any suction or pushing of air.
Is the air intake the device that has the air filter in it, that leads to the engine?
Because this is sucking air in, controlled by some type of electronic device that throttles the amount of air (I guess) that is being sucked in. (This is what I am spraying starting fluid in to try to start the car). But as far as the vacuum hose - I get nothing.
I did, however, blow in this line to ensure there were no clogs, & there wasn't!
So, now what?
Thanks again!
Is the air intake the device that has the air filter in it, that leads to the engine?
Because this is sucking air in, controlled by some type of electronic device that throttles the amount of air (I guess) that is being sucked in. (This is what I am spraying starting fluid in to try to start the car). But as far as the vacuum hose - I get nothing.
I did, however, blow in this line to ensure there were no clogs, & there wasn't!
So, now what?
Thanks again!
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#8
12-03-2009, 05:15 PM
Senior Member
Your vacuum pump is dead. Replace it, and I bet your car fires up.
Can you take a picture of this pressure switch thing you mentioned?
The air intake IS the device that has the air filter on it, etc., etc. It sounds like it's working. Also, take a picture of the "electronic device" that you mentioned is on your air intake.
Can you take a picture of this pressure switch thing you mentioned?
The air intake IS the device that has the air filter on it, etc., etc. It sounds like it's working. Also, take a picture of the "electronic device" that you mentioned is on your air intake.
#9
12-04-2009, 01:46 AM
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#10
12-04-2009, 02:11 AM
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When I took the injectors out, I had my wife turn the key to start & the injectors were injecting...lol Each & everyone of them were misting (atomizing the gas).
I also sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake & the car started!
So I am hoping that the solution is something simple.
I also sprayed some starter fluid in the air intake & the car started!
So I am hoping that the solution is something simple.
Pretty weird!
Since it runs on the spray your igntion system is OK
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? You need 36 psi fuel pressure at the rail while cranking the engine. Too much or too little and you have a problem
Also, remove the connector to the fuel injection coolant temp sensor and check the connections. A poor connection will cause over fueling. An "open" circuit here will flat-out make the engine non-startable
Remove the air filter housing and, with the key "on", use your finger to operate the flap in the front of the air fow meter. You should hear the fuel pump run. It should not run by simply turning the key "on"...unless the system has been modified.
Post back
Cheers
DD
#11
12-04-2009, 02:16 AM
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Is the air intake the device that has the air filter in it, that leads to the engine?
Because this is sucking air in, controlled by some type of electronic device that throttles the amount of air (I guess) that is being sucked in. (This is what I am spraying starting fluid in to try to start the car). But as far as the vacuum hose - I get nothing.
Because this is sucking air in, controlled by some type of electronic device that throttles the amount of air (I guess) that is being sucked in. (This is what I am spraying starting fluid in to try to start the car). But as far as the vacuum hose - I get nothing.
Sounds like you are talking about the air flow meter. It is the primary controller of engine fueling. Air passing thru (according to throttle opening) opens a flap. The flap in turn is connected to a arm that runs along a resistor which, in turn, "tells" the computer how to fuel the engine
Cheers
DD
#12
12-04-2009, 09:18 AM
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Vacuum...issue or no issue?
Ok, here are some pictures: Things I have been dealing with & could use some help on.
1) Air Flow Meter
2) One end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose (some type of sensor/relay of some sort)
3) The other end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose connecting to air injector pressure switch of some sort
So, I'm really confused now as to what I should be looking for, but the air flow meter is metering the air. Whether it's pulling the right amount of air in might be in question.
As far as the fuel pressure...I have no way of checking it, although the fuel pump, fuel filter & fuel regulator are all new. The fuel pump is pumping, as I have check this several times for clogs & such. I here the pump hum when the car is trying to start.
Doud said: "Also, remove the connector to the fuel injection coolant temp sensor and check the connections. A poor connection will cause over fueling. An "open" circuit here will flat-out make the engine non-startable"
Where is this coolant temp. sensor???
FYI - Car has not been modified in any way that the fuel pump is on when the key is turned. It only come on while trying to start.
Thanks!
1) Air Flow Meter
2) One end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose (some type of sensor/relay of some sort)
3) The other end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose connecting to air injector pressure switch of some sort
So, I'm really confused now as to what I should be looking for, but the air flow meter is metering the air. Whether it's pulling the right amount of air in might be in question.
As far as the fuel pressure...I have no way of checking it, although the fuel pump, fuel filter & fuel regulator are all new. The fuel pump is pumping, as I have check this several times for clogs & such. I here the pump hum when the car is trying to start.
Doud said: "Also, remove the connector to the fuel injection coolant temp sensor and check the connections. A poor connection will cause over fueling. An "open" circuit here will flat-out make the engine non-startable"
Where is this coolant temp. sensor???
FYI - Car has not been modified in any way that the fuel pump is on when the key is turned. It only come on while trying to start.
Thanks!
#13
12-04-2009, 10:02 AM
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Ok, here are some pictures: Things I have been dealing with & could use some help on.
1) Air Flow Meter
2) One end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose (some type of sensor/relay of some sort)
3) The other end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose connecting to air injector pressure switch of some sort
1) Air Flow Meter
2) One end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose (some type of sensor/relay of some sort)
3) The other end of what I think might be of a vacuum hose connecting to air injector pressure switch of some sort
Pic #1 ....the orange-ish device is the fuel temperature switch. If the fuel is too hot the switch vents vacuum and allows max fuel pressure. I'd by-pass it for now just to get it out of the equation. Run your vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator directly to vacuum port
Pic #2... that's the Air Flow Meter. I see the top is off. I hope you haven't been rooting around in there !
Pic #3... this is the diverter valve on the back of the air injection pump. I won't prevent the engine from starting
So, I'm really confused now as to what I should be looking for, but the air flow meter is metering the air.
How do we know ?
Whether it's pulling the right amount of air in might be in question.
Well, actually, it doesn't pull air. The engine pulls air thru the air flow meter when the throttle is opened. But that's neither here nor there right now
As far as the fuel pressure...I have no way of checking it, although the fuel pump, fuel filter & fuel regulator are all new. The fuel pump is pumping, as I have check this several times for clogs & such. I here the pump hum when the car is trying to start.
Then your fuel pressure is probably OK, but bypass that fuel temp switch for now.
Doud said: "Also, remove the connector to the fuel injection coolant temp sensor and check the connections. A poor connection will cause over fueling. An "open" circuit here will flat-out make the engine non-startable"
Where is this coolant temp. sensor???
Where is this coolant temp. sensor???
On the water rail, which runs fore-n-aft along the right side of the engine next to the right side cam cover, there are four sensors. The coolant temp sensor for the fuel injection is the third from the front.
FYI - Car has not been modified in any way that the fuel pump is on when the key is turned. It only come on while trying to start.
Good....one less variable to worry about
Cheers
DD
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12-05-2009, 10:43 AM
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12-08-2009, 03:15 PM
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#16
12-16-2009, 01:44 PM
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1985 Jaguar XJ6 Won't Start
I just want to recap some of the problems I have encountered to help simplify the issues at hand without having to re-read this entire thread:
Problem: Car Won't start
Car is able to start while spraying starter fluid, but will not stay on.
What I have replaced:
1) Fuel Pump
2) Fuel Filter
3) Fuel Regulator
4) Alternator
5) Battery
6) Spark Plugs
7) Coil
8) Distributor Cap & Rotor
What I've done:
1) Bypassed Fuel Temp Switch
2) Removed & Cleaned Fuel Injectors (3 times)
3) Verified that there were no clogs or restrictions in the fuel line
What I know:
1) Fuel is getting to the injectors
2) Fuel is being injected through the injectors (I pulled each one out to verify)
3) I'm getting spark at the spark plugs
4) Air Flow Meter is metering air into intake (never touched this. It has always worked)
5) Starts with Starting Fluid, but will not stay on
6) Emptied out gas tanks & replaced with Premium Gas
PLEASE.....I AM DESPERATE TO GET THIS CAR RUNNING AGAIN!!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Problem: Car Won't start
Car is able to start while spraying starter fluid, but will not stay on.
What I have replaced:
1) Fuel Pump
2) Fuel Filter
3) Fuel Regulator
4) Alternator
5) Battery
6) Spark Plugs
7) Coil
8) Distributor Cap & Rotor
What I've done:
1) Bypassed Fuel Temp Switch
2) Removed & Cleaned Fuel Injectors (3 times)
3) Verified that there were no clogs or restrictions in the fuel line
What I know:
1) Fuel is getting to the injectors
2) Fuel is being injected through the injectors (I pulled each one out to verify)
3) I'm getting spark at the spark plugs
4) Air Flow Meter is metering air into intake (never touched this. It has always worked)
5) Starts with Starting Fluid, but will not stay on
6) Emptied out gas tanks & replaced with Premium Gas
PLEASE.....I AM DESPERATE TO GET THIS CAR RUNNING AGAIN!!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
#17
12-16-2009, 03:57 PM
Senior Member
Did you check the cold start injector, per my last PM to you?
Found this:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_t...w_does_it_work
Also, did you do a fuel pressure TEST? See below:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1780857-8...jected_problem
This guy the same car, and his fuel pressure was only 10 PSI, versus higher. Check that, too. I'm convinced the problem lies somewhere between the injectors and the engine - i.e. inside the manifold. Meaning: the fuel is getting there, but something is causing it NOT to get there as it should.
Found this:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_t...w_does_it_work
The cold start valve is sometimes called the fifth injector. It is mounted to the intake air distribution box and is in line with the fuel rail. It has an electrical connection and a fuel inlet line and a fuel outlet line. S
The cold start valve is essentially constructed the same as the regular fuel injectors. The main difference is that the cold start valve injection time is measured in seconds rather than in milliseconds like the regular injectors.
The cold start valve receives power from the double relay when the key is in the start position but only injects fuel into the intake air distributor when the cold start valve is grounded by the thermo-time switch.
The purpose of the cold start valve is to inject fuel into the intake air stream when the engine is cold (and the starter operating) in order to richen the fuel/air mixture for easier starting.
It can be tested in the same manner as the other injectors. Leakage is undesirable as it will cause the engine to run rich
The cold start valve is essentially constructed the same as the regular fuel injectors. The main difference is that the cold start valve injection time is measured in seconds rather than in milliseconds like the regular injectors.
The cold start valve receives power from the double relay when the key is in the start position but only injects fuel into the intake air distributor when the cold start valve is grounded by the thermo-time switch.
The purpose of the cold start valve is to inject fuel into the intake air stream when the engine is cold (and the starter operating) in order to richen the fuel/air mixture for easier starting.
It can be tested in the same manner as the other injectors. Leakage is undesirable as it will cause the engine to run rich
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1780857-8...jected_problem
Yes it has a cool start injector, and I have removed it with the elct connector and fule line still connected, when I cranked over the eng it sprayed like it should. so I don't think it's the temp sender. I did learn that my fule pressure isn't what it should be, as It should be around 100psi plus at inlet, but is only 10 psi so I think I found the reason.
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11-11-2016, 03:19 PM
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Success on starting my 85 xj6
I've been having difficulty over the past several months with intermittent starting on my 85 xj6 with 185,00 miles. I followed your suggested trouble shooting steps and I'm back on the road. The problem was a damaged wire from the negative coil post to the distributor. The wire was very brittle and partially severed. While checking the connections I touched it and it disintegrated. Replaced the wire and the jag fired right up. Thank you for your excellent post.
Lee
Lee
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11-15-2016, 04:36 PM
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Guys new here and have not worked on Jag. but your description is something I've witnessed fixed on other vehicles. If you spray starter fluid or some form of fuel in the intake and it starts, but does not stay running. I suggest re-check the fuel pump installation and any wiring leading to it. Because your description is a classic example of a bad fuel pump.
#20
11-17-2016, 10:26 AM
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