Latest pic. Had the stock exhaust manifolds ceramic coated inside and out and will not be adding the heat shield. I'll add the AC back at some point, but leaving it off for now.



New exhaust that eliminates Catalytic converter and front mufflers. Still surprisingly quiet!

 

Update: Had to replace the Craigslist-sourced 700R4 with one built at a reputable Trans shop. The one I originally bought had only forward... 1st gear in every position including neutral. Trans shop disassembled it and told me it had 4L60 internals that did not quite fit, lots of stuff welded together. Learned my lesson: Never buy a "rebuilt" transmission from a guy named Jeremy out of the trunk of his car at a McDonald's in Flint MI.

Car now has the hood on and has done about 6 miles of tuning/ driving. Mixture still isn't quite right. Been tuning, then drive, come back and check plugs. Seemingly no matter what I do, front carb is rich, middle is good, rear carb is lean. I'm wondering if the fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to keep the rear carb float bowl full? Fuel flows to the front carb first... The car runs smooth and fine until there is an uphill grade or you step on it, then you get popping through the carbs and stumble. Much less prevalent when it is warmed up fully. Starting carb shuts off way too soon on the Otter switch, so I may have to wire a switch for control.

I had issues with the header tank hitting the hood, so I removed the fill neck and cap completely, and drilled and tapped the side for the overflow and radiator drain back hoses. Is there any issue with this setup? Scared because I still cannot get a temp reading, car doesn't seem to run hot, but really would like the gauge to work. Can't seem to find the green/blue wire in the engine bay that runs the gauge.


Header tank re-work to clear the hood. Does the cap need to vent here?

 

You might want to get an inexpensive but name brand mechanical temperature guage and leave it under the bonnet for a while to make sure you are not overheating. Obviously you can't read it while you are driving but you can stop and lift the bonnet and make sure everything is ok.

Then when you do get the dashboard temperature guage working you can see if it is reading close to what the mechanical one was reading.

 

I know what you mean about buying a used transmission. I was looking for a gm T-5 wide ratio manual transmission. Salvage yards said they would guarantee it for 30 days. I wouldn't even have it installed in 30 days. So I bought a nice running pickup that was a total rust bucket. You could see through the fenders. I drove it for 30 days on the temporary tags so I didn't have to pay the tax. The transmission worked perfectly. Pulled the transmission and sold the rest as a parts car. Turns out it was worth more as a parts car than I paid for it. So I got a beautiful transmission for free.

Jeff

 

Congrats on getting the car up and running.

If a may ask, on your 700r4 conversion, how is the tv cable connected?

i found one in a wrecking yard and pulled it, this is what was on the car.



Best regards

carl

 

I have a clamp on linkage arm on the intermediate shaft of the 420G manifold linkage. It has a few choices of holes, and I have a threaded cable sheath holder for fine tuning adjustments. I can take a picture Sunday and post here if needed.

 

A photo would be great!
thank you!

 

What needels do you have in the SU's? UM's?

Rob

 

I believe they are UM. Car is up on my lift, will have to get it down and check. I'm hearing that the richer UO needle is probably what I need.

 

Update: I changed the carb needles to UO from UM, and that fixed the mixture issue! The car runs great at every speed and throttle position now. More power too. Lots more. The trans is shifting too early at WOT, so I may have to change the governor weights in the trans.

All I can say is that the performance is WAAAY improved over the old motor/ trans combo. 9 to 1 compression, big valve head, triple SU's, better exhaust and better gearing all made a huge difference.

 

What is the part Number of the thermostat housing C.30834? or what is the donor car? XJ S1?

 

any luck on pics of this?

thank you

 

Any updates on the XJC? Also if you want to confirm if the temp gauge is working to rule out the sender, remove the wire from the sender and ground it. Your guage should peg all the way to hot. This means you need a new sender.

 

Oil pressure sounds excellent. A 10w40 should do nicely for you.