My brake light switch has failed. I understand this to be a #33814 also known as DAC 1308.
There seems to be no inventory out there anywhere I can find. Terry's showed they had it. I ordered. 4 days later they told me they DON'T have it. Another four days delay to get the car back on the road.

Does the Series III switch, shown as DAC 1308A, work the same in the same spot? Need alteration to fit?

I'm not a purist. How about I install a hydraulic brake light switch in the line somewhere and end this chase?

Thanks!

 

have you tried fixing the original switch?
I know you can open the Series 3 switch and fix it. I did mine once and it is still going.

 

Does the Series III switch look the same? I have no experience with Series II. I do know that the hydraulic switches in the earlier cars were notoriously unreliable and the modern replacements are worse.
Here is a Series III switch, and David is a good guy to deal with.
https://shop.everydayxj.com/XJ6_XJS_...17-dac1308.htm

 

me neither. But a brake light switch is a brake light switch. So many millions of different switches to do the same thing, (light up the brake lights).

I bet he can find a used one or adapt another.

 

You can buy brake light switches that will work at most any parts house.

Dave

 

I've used this switch with much success:

Allstar Universal Brake Light Switch Lever with Spring Return Steel Zinc Oxide | eBay

 

Thanks very much to everyone for their responses.

 

Ordered Cole-Hersee mechanical (lever) brake light switch # 8487 from OReilly auto parts for $19. Thanks again.

 

If you run into an issue with the new one the old one can be opened up and cleaned. The SII and SIII switches are the same in my experience.

 

I just had to rebuild mine as well. I bought a GM switch (50's era truck) and thought I could modify / adapt it. Unfortunately the contacts were on the opposite side and no matter how I manipulated it, I couldn't get it to work. I ended up taking the guts out of the new switch and putting it in the old switch. I had to clean up the contacts a bit as things got a bit goopy inside. While your there, also take a look at the wires. I found mine were really cooroded and ended up cutting the leads down until i got to clean copper and putting new connectors on the end. Incidently it looks like a since corrected leaky MC might have been the culprit of the demise of the switch. Good Luck. Its not that hard.