I thought the only thing missing was the nurse!

 

.

 

HAHAHA, I'll stick with my sig pic thanks very much.

Anything gets me further in the dog house, and then the dog gets hissy.

 

My dogs got a bed in garage,so I guess I'm always in the doghouse.

Clarke

 

Bad, bad boys ... you never know where that Nurse has been ...

If you have a genuine stethoscope ... great! My point about the nasal oxygen set is that anyone can fashion their own stethoscope - once cleaned - from an every-day throw-away. Either way, extend with the plastic tubing because my final trick was to araldite (silicon these days?) to a spring clamp (peg?) that allows you to clamp to carb flange with end of tube in edge of airstream ... now you have both hands free if you are adjusting ...\

Cheers.

 

Sorry to interrupt your post o1xjr.
Just noticed my town mentioned and had to throw out a g'day to Grant.
Finally see a member who is almost as local as me lol
Next time you need to come to Pirie.... give us a yell....
maybe we can meet, always interested in meeting fellow Jag Enthusiasts.

 

Hi All,
Fitted the new engine mounts today, two layers of the rubber were missing on each side. Engine is sitting about 20mm above subframe now, idle is almost smooth. Drives much nicer(I thought it was nice before), and the slight shudder has gone when moving from a stand still. Oh,and quieter.
I need to remove Idle and mixture screws to replace them with new ones,and add lock nuts. So I will follow Grant and Kens instructions from earlier in this thread and give the carby's once over,hopefully I can make a start tomorrow or Saturday.I will add pictures of the various parts and procedures as suggested by Ken. This Will make it easier for the next beginner who wants to attempt tuning SU's



Clarke

 

Does the bonnet still shut?

Graham

 

HAHAHAHA.

The XK engine sump "hollow section" should clean the top face of the subframe by about 20-25mm.

I know this from having many of these beasts, NOT from scientific blurb. You know me, "about as scientific as a brick".

 

Yes Graham,the bonnet still shuts.

Grant, I have about a thumb space between subframe and sump,so about 20mm at a guess. Makes a world of difference.
As I said before,I thought it was smooth before. But my other car is a 19 year old 4x4 I've had for the last 16 years.

 

Yep, a thumb is Aussie for 20+mm.

The V12 is about 15mm, so a finger, if you are lucky. That sucker sits REAL close.

 

Grant, When I strip and checkout these carby's and tune them I will take pictures of each step you have listed in you document then insert them into a copy of the document and re-post it so it has step by step instructions with pictures inserted in each step.
Is that ok with you?

My car uses 56 beer cans of fuel/100km,( that's Aussie for 21 liters/100km ). I haven't recalculated fuel useage since replacing that split jet tube,but it was loosing a fair amount out of there.

 

Yep, fine by me. Time will be scarce for a while for me to get too involved in anything much. I will still stop by and post what I can.

I have been re-summoned to work as the Boss is away, and delayed somewhere.

So the one legged, grumpy old bugga, gets to do 6 days a week, 10 hours a day, for the next 2+ weeks. Auto Spare Parts, so full on all day.

I must surrender that key one of these days, HAHA.

 

Hi all,
This may be of some interest or help to someone, i have the twin HS8's on my series 11, complete overhaul of the Su's & eliminated the AED, polished everything with the buffing wheel including the pistons & stems etc to get a smooth slide, used the old AED input tubes at the carb base to connect vacuum gauge for each carb & blended my own oil to match the SAE20, mine never ran on but i did fit an idle solenoid on the shaft between the cable end & 1st carb, set up the carbs to be fully closed & throttle idle screws only just touching but not creating idle, set the idle solenoid to activate when ignition on & adjust accordingly to the idle speed you want, long as there's no lag between carbs on the throttle connecting rods...all goes well

 

Say no more, but feel free to add your valuable opinion.

 

had similar problems, after getting the carbs right i opted to convert to electronic ignition & side gaping the spark plugs, no problems since, imported the electronic system from UK & kept standard point system & coil as a break down kit if ever needed...tom

 

Hi Tom,
Thanks for your input, no AED on this car it has manual choke. I'm thinking about going down the electronic ignition path later on, get the carbs sorted first and get a few miles up.
Want to take it away for a couple of weekend drives to see if I have any other small problems show up.
It is a very slow process as I can only do things as the budget allows. Being a hobby car(which I seem be using more than my other vehicles) it goes to the end of the list when spending is needed. So doing as much as possible to it without spending too much for now.
Clarke

 

Hi Ken & grant, I had a go at tuning the carbys today, All went well I think. Set mixtures and idle as per your instructions.
Did about a 10 km test drive. Idle is definitely much better, and accelerates much better(feels less sluggish).
Only problem is when I removed the (new) spark plugs when I got back the rear 3 were carbon black again like the picture of the old ones further back in the thread. This is telling me the rear carby is too rich,correct me if I am wrong.
It just doesn't add up as engine is running smooth,does not seem too rich or too lean, could there be something else wrong here.

I have added a diagram from the SU tech section of their website,which shows adjusting jet height in carby from under the jet, where as mine seems to adjust height from the mixture screw at top near idle screw. Is this mixture adjustment different on some HS 8's. Ken explains adjusting mixture from bottom, Grant explains adjusting mixture from the top.


Help would be greatly appreciated.



Clarke

 

I agree that the rear carby is a tad rich, and it dont take much.

The adjuster from underneath is the older H series carbies, as in the old Morris Mini, 1100 etc. Not aware of the H series being used on an XJ series Jag, maybe the real early models??.

The HD series still has the adjuster at the side with an air bleed screw for the idle speed.
Make sure the choke is not holding ON a tad. Make sure that the jet is properly in the UP position.

Failing that, I reckon a combination of jet/needle wear is the culprit.

I would go for a reset of the mixtures again, coz if the front is a tad lean, the rear can be set a tad rich to compensate in the big scheme, and the sooty plugs adjacent to the richer carb will tell the tale.

 

Grant, I was thinking along the same lines. going to have another go at mixture tomorrow or Wednesday. If that fails new jets and needles next.
I am going to PM yourself and Ken the word doc with pics tonight so you can check it over before I post it on the forum. Would you post it on this thread or can you suggest a better spot? or maybe here and somewhere else. I get the hiss thing, whole operation not too daunting,thanks a million to yourself and Ken for the help.
Cheers, Clarke

Cheers, Clarke