Does any one now what the timing cure is on a 1982 XJS v12 HE. I am looking into buying a MegaSquirt MS3Pro Ultimate package from DIY Auto Tune. For full sequential injection and digital ignition timing. They told me that I will need to program the timing curve into the system. I have been unsuccessful at finding these numbers any where. Any help would be great.

 

It's in the ROM HE supplement. Get yourself a manual on CD

10° static timing

Advance for HE is

below 900rpm nil
2000rpm 22-26°
4000rpm 29-33°
6200rpm 34-38°

vacuum advance max is 4°

This is a good starting point. I'm in the process of setting up my MS2 to run my V12. I have the MS2 mounted in an old 6CU case to plug into the Jaguar wiring and mount in the boot.

Are you going to go Fuel and ignition at the same time?

 

i dont think there is an actual curve for late 70s, and early 80s!

they give for idle speed and max speed, i suspect that they assume all inside should be new,(springs and weights etc).

i use a generic Chevy curve in my 78 dist, and strobe timing light! i never cared for the HE curve, its edgy!

be nice to have a distributor machine tho! warron can help, like he said ,a starting point.

 

to explain some difference between PRE and HE engines , i run around 22/25* at 950 rpm, no vac.

and up to 45/50* at 3000 rpm.

if i pull timing to factory specs ,engine is LAZY and sluggish, even sounds crappy!

i'm kinda old fashioned, tune by the seat of butt timing!

and if the engine runs cool temps , almost impossible to damage it, unless you on W.Texas hyways, and the like!

 

Wow thanks for the info.
Yes my plan is to do both at the same time $2300.00 for MS3Pro Ultimate package with all parts and pieces + The LM-2 deluxe kit with two O2 sensors. I do plan to reuse my distributor with the centrifugal and vacuum advance removed I will keep the two wire magnetic pickup in the distributor with only one tooth on the wheel. A 36 tooth gear mounted on the end of the crank pulley and a hall sensor.[/QUOTE]

 

Leave the mechanical advance connected, if you don't you could end up with a situation where the rotor is not lined up with the post when the MS3 fires the ignition.

The alternative would be to use a Marelli distributor, the wiper on the rotor is much longer so it does not need and mechanical advance.

I am going wasted spark with 2 x GMDIS coil modules. Electronics gutted with 3 BIP373's in each coil base. Run directly from the MS2.

 

That was a concern I had the wiper is only 3/8" wide on the Lucas distributor. I'll look for a Marelli I'm trying to get away from the issues with the advance on the Lucas distributors.

 

i wonder if it will make more power than my old Crane module and modded Lucas distributor?

engine will pull to 6500rpm smoothly, rev to 7000 no problem!

lotta money to change out, $2300, ignition/fuel, some of these cars are not worth that much.

OOPS , i should talk, i got over $30K in my endless pit! LOL.

and i never was satisfied with the final HP#.

 

Yup lot of money I'm at $50k total $30k in the last 11 months and the car has sat since 1986 drove it for the first time in the 20 years I've owned it just today. It may produce a bit more hp it will be better on fuel and way more reliable. After all the discussion here I'm going to spend $300.00 more for the wast spark system and go full distributor less. with 2 IGN six tower coils and 2 Quad spark four channel controllers.

 

I think this is a wise decision.

You have a number of options -

1) Buy the Autotune modules.

2) 2x Ford coil packs with 6 BIP373's in separate case.

3) 2 x GMDIS modules gutted and 3 x BIP373's mounted in each module.

I went the GMDIS as these modules are cheap here. I paid $60.00 for both modules including 6 coil packs and then bought 6 BIP373's. The hardest job was gutting the sticky goo from the module.

My MS2 will not have the ignition drivers in the case to avoid having ignition signals running through the cars wiring loom. The other advantage of having the drivers in the coil module is almost negligible voltage drop from the driver to the coil. The further away the drivers are from the coils the larger the cable required to keep voltage drop to a minimum.

 

Yes less than half the price. What I like about DIY Auto Tune is they supply tech support full install instruction and tuning soft ware in Window, Mac and Linux and I'm a Linux user. I also have been out of the auto industry for 17 years as support will be needed.