Rock Auto has the "uprated" red one for $147 which all things considered is a pretty good deal.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...S%2B5.3L%2BV12

 

Thanks for the info,I checked out rock auto,it looks like a deal.But where do I find the adapter kit to make it fit?

 

This one might be worth the gamble.

1987 Jaguar XJS V12 Throttle Position Sensor TPI w Base 1985 1989 | eBay

or this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Lucas...f81a0d&vxp=mtr

 

That looks like a pretty good deal.
i'll check that out.
thanks.

 

If you want a decently reliable car, I think it would be a mistake to buy a 28 year old TPS.

What I did was to buy a red one, then make an aluminium plate with three matching holes to fix it on, then removed the throttle capstan and spindle, bolted up the new plate and TPS assembly to the capstan bottom, and then carefully measured the required spindle length to the new TPS. Then I cut down the spindle accordingly and cut a slot in the spindle end to fit the new TPS. Job done, cost almost nothing.

Greg

 

Ok, I am going to counter-point on this one. No malice meant I just feel like expressing my $.02. My TPS is 28 years old..(heck most of my cars parts are 28 years old!) does that make my car not decently reliable?? "Job done cost almost nothing" ($147 for new red TPS is hardly nothing) Some people are trying to get by on very little $$ in today's economy as well as make sure your replacing what needs to be done. I'd rather spend $50 on a used part that works and will get me down the road awhile till I figure if the cars worth putting anymore into it. If I find later the cars worthy and I want to drop more $$ into it AND the 28 YO TPS craps out then I may find it worthwhile to invest some $$ and time into it,I also know I said in an earlier thread I fix it like new or better BUT sometimes the budget calls for a tested working used part when you're simply trying to see if the car is worth investing further time and money into.. Just my $.02 not trying to stir the pot

 

Thanks for all the good info and advise.I agree with Greg about possable unreliability on used parts.you never know what your going to get.But if its cheap enough,it's worth a try.I also agree with JT,this car has been sitting I may put a 300 dollar part on and eng or trans may go out.so its a 50 50 call.
Ofcourse Im going to try the cheaper way out for now,and buy the ford tps and modify it.
Rock Auto has it for 12.00
thats worth a try.I'll then see If car holds up with all else,if so then i'll buy a more reliably part.
Thanks for all the great advise.I'll let you know how it goes.

 

hello JTsmks,that 92 ford tps is there a better reference on the modify than just in the post.?
just dont want to screw it up.
Im really not clear on the wiring?Im going to cut off harnes on old tps and noticed A b c on ford tps Im sure one is signal one is input and one ground i think.
As far as bieng .38v at idle instead of the .32v should that be ok? anyone?

 

I think Doug Dwyer has the write-up on it but I may be wrong. I'd PM him and see is he has it still.

 

will do thanks..

 

ok,ran into a slight problem.the shaft that goes to the drive on lucas tps on the throttle broke when I tried to cut it off with razor knife.Does any one have an idea on what I can use to drive the throttle disc.It has a flat sided shaft and the ford tps has a sloted female shaft.
anyone?
thanks

 

Ok resolved the situation,put tps back on car all hooked up,and with ign on closed throttle,I have .52v wide open throttle I have 3.89 Car is still stumbling when tries to start.I check fuel line going to fuel cooler,from left side fuel regulater.I disconnected hose on fuel cooler inet.I put hose in a water bottle,and turned ign on to acivate fuel pump.Fuel pump came on and dispensed about 3 oz of fuel Is that about right? to charge sytem for start?

 

Had to convert that oz to my ml brain.

About 88ml, which I reckon is a tad low for a 3 second pump run. I have not done that test from that hose, as I usually do it at the supply side (RH side) and that is a one huge jet of fuel on a good pump.

 

Sorry I forgot,about the convert from gal to ml..I was just thinking about that inlet.Ill try the inlet side on the right and let you know how much I get.I know pump is new and its a high volume pump and I also changed filter.you think fuel pump relays?
also will that veriation of voltage .50v to 3.89 keep car from starting..

 

ok,I bought the one on ebay off an 85 xjs HE (red tps)has throttle plate with adapter,throttle cable and microswitch.good deal for 55.00. Hopefully it will be plug and play.I hope!

 

ok while im waiting for the tps,I found a small part under right rear intake,just under all the vacuum spouts that are at the end of right rear intake.It says nippodenso and has a vacuum line on it that t's onto one of the vacumm lines at rear of intake.It has two wires that come out of it,that are disconnected.They must go somewhere.
anyone know?
thanks

 

Your market is sooooo different from ours, but maybe the item # 6 "dump valve" in the attached diagram is what you have.


I think" the wires are attached to a temp solenoid for vac advance/retard whilst warm up is under way, but NOT 100%.

 

i believe that the best thing to do with that cat's cradle of tubes is as follows:

• Find the vac tube from the advance/retard capsule (the capsule is on the base of the dizzy pointing rearwards)
• Suck on that tube. if it sucks air then the capsule diaphram is toast and needs to be replaced or fuel economy crashes
• If/when the tube holds vacuum, then connect directly it to the small take-off underneath the A bank throttle body
• Blank off and disconnect all the other little tubes that are part of this system.

I did this years ago on the advice of the great David Marks, JEC guru, and it works just fine and removes lost of unnecessary complexity.


Greg

 

yep,looks like it,#6 Its hooked to vacuum but wires go no where.
My vacuum advance on dist is froze.but good advice on eleminating everything but advance.My air pump is hooked up and running should I leave it,or take off belt drive.And what about egr valve?

 

Ok,Update,installed the tps I bought on ebay.It is measuring .34 v at closed thtottle and 5.1 at open throttle.Now with ignition on,as I slowly open throttle,I do not hear injectors clicking.Pulled one spark plug,and it was carboned and very dry of gas.
Why would injectors not open during cranking engine??