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Presented well and for $2.5K I was OK with taking a flyer... this is for the now 13YO boy, so we can do some work on it for a few years until he can drive it.
well the car had a bunch of new bits thrown at it and was still running rough... was tuned totally off and the cylinders were mislabeled. The seller (flipper) did some work tuning it for a couple weeks for the auction... got it driveable.
still snorting and backfiring and shuddering when I got it. He said it was injector 3, which we replaced on day one.
Now we have it a bit noticed it worse shape than pics (shock!)... Interior has a lot of water coming in from rear windows, rear quarter windows and door seals both sides... maybe front window as well. Paint is some bubbling spots and bad, a little rust.
So we will be doing some paint and body work and new interior. The electrics are a mess... several bits not working (Horn, radio, brights engage one side other out, light engage one side other out (opposite sides of course), wipers engage when turning or using turn signal... multiple little lights out... and a battery drain which needs to be hunted down.
So we will see how it goes... Just bought a bunch of seals to keep the water out and then do some tuning on the engine and get it stable and fix the electrical. Plan is to do it in a Magnus Walker Outlaw style, which would allow more flexibility and less cost than a restoration. Surprised more of these haven't gone that route yet, seems natural.
Looks like a lot of work. But it will be a proud accomplishment for your boy when it's done, he'll learn a lot on the way, plus you get all the quality time with him. Win win, all around.
Could and should be a great runner. TPI makes a lot of low end torque and has excellent throttle response. When it arrived on the scene in 1985 it was a revelation and that level of torque and driveabity of the early mass air flow TPI wouldn't be matched until the MAF based LT1 came out 10 years later.
I can tell you from experience the MAF based TPI can be VERY finicky about air flow trough the MAF. The bent up contraption in front of the MAF will not due. There should be no bends close to the MAF. If there is the MAF can not read air flow correctly. It's an early precision instrument and its unforgiving. In most cases there needs to be at least 4 inches of corrugated bellows before the MAF to create the right type of flow for the MAF to read. Copy exactly how the MAF was plumbed on the corvette for a straight shot in and if you need to angle it over then copy how GM did it on the Firebird. Below 75% throttle the system relies only on the signal from the MAF for fueling calculations so any issues with flow will present as poor running.
Also find the ALDL and see if the ECM has any codes. Its often the case with these conversion that they are not completely right and you will be well served to go through it. A TPI convert can and should run with no error codes.
You also may have a set of mis matched parts and I see different things from different years.
Last edited by icsamerica; 12-25-2016 at 08:28 PM.
Lucky son!!! Wow, I had to earn my nickels to buy a donkey, then a couple of horses, then finaly a 23 T Ford that didn't run and had no tires. 13. 25, 25 and twenty five bucks, again in order. At my teen job of two bits an hour, it took some scraping..
To the point. Check Andrew Weinberg's Jaguar-Specialties. He is an advertiser here and on occasion contributes. One of his first swaps was an L98 into an XJS, a drop top in his case. Canadian, Rob Wade acquired it ands took it home to Ontario. changes made. A really neat car. Good information on Andrew's site.
When I did my swap research, I had a choice. An L98 from a Vette or an LT1 from
a Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I chose the latter. A big point was iron heads on an iron block, as opposed to alloy on iron. The DOHC flop in mind....
A great match. The LT1 was torque oriented for the really big Caddy. As the XJ6 is far from alight weight, the engineering transfers nicely.
i am slowly working on v-8 swapping my jag, the 6 doesnt have enough power for me and the ecm recently died so the car is not running. just fired the new engine for the first time on the stand today, i am looking forward to getting it in the car.
the engine core is a 4 bolt main vortec 350 that came out of a 97 3/4 ton pickup. rebuilt the engine its got 906 heads with the exaust valve seats blended in and the guide bosses profiled in the ports valve guides and spring seats were machined down for a gm performance lt4 hot cam upgraded valve springs roller rockers dual plane intake and a summit racing 700 cfm carb. this combination should be good for around 400 hp at the crank. (dyno testing done by multiple sources with this combination has come out anywhere from 380-425hp so it should be pretty strong. built the bottom end to work with a power adder later if i want should handle 550 hp pretty easy. with ether no2 or boost.
a lot of people don't like to see sbc swaps in these cars but its to cheap and easy to make horsepower with them if that is your goal total cost for rebuilding the engine and modifying it to its current stage was under $2500 replacement parts will be cheap and it only takes a couple wires to make this engine run. using a carb and hei distributor.
if i was going to do it allover again from the start i would probably be looking much more at jags that were already chevy swapped. but being as i wasn't thinking swap years ago when i bought it and i already put a nice paint job on the car and re-did the suspension and some other things i think this is the answer that will make me the happiest.
Could and should be a great runner. TPI makes a lot of low end torque and has excellent throttle response. When it arrived on the scene in 1985 it was a revelation and that level of torque and driveabity of the early mass air flow TPI wouldn't be matched until the MAF based LT1 came out 10 years later.
I can tell you from experience the MAF based TPI can be VERY finicky about air flow trough the MAF. The bent up contraption in front of the MAF will not due. There should be no bends close to the MAF. If there is the MAF can not read air flow correctly. It's an early precision instrument and its unforgiving. In most cases there needs to be at least 4 inches of corrugated bellows before the MAF to create the right type of flow for the MAF to read. Copy exactly how the MAF was plumbed on the corvette for a straight shot in and if you need to angle it over then copy how GM did it on the Firebird. Below 75% throttle the system relies only on the signal from the MAF for fueling calculations so any issues with flow will present as poor running.
Also find the ALDL and see if the ECM has any codes. Its often the case with these conversion that they are not completely right and you will be well served to go through it. A TPI convert can and should run with no error codes.
You also may have a set of mis matched parts and I see different things from different years.
Been working on stripping it down for some body work and paint. Any tips on taking the chrome trim off around the driver and passenger windows? The top bythe roof doesn't seem to have any screws... was this just slid on or folded on? Trying to avoid bending it too much if I am missing something.
Been working on stripping it down for some body work and paint. Any tips on taking the chrome trim off around the driver and passenger windows? The top bythe roof doesn't seem to have any screws... was this just slid on or folded on? Trying to avoid bending it too much if I am missing something.
The gutter trim snaps on and can be levered off from lower edge.
The trim below the rear side windows is riveted on and is removed after window assembly.
What's your plan with the "outlaw" theme? I like the idea and I will be doing the same to a degree. I'm not much for stock things although I do love the xjs. I'm planning to black out all the chrome like lister xjs did, lighten the whole car with no rear seats and new seats/ steering wheel, lowered and wide. (hence fat cat)
What's your plan with the "outlaw" theme? I like the idea and I will be doing the same to a degree. I'm not much for stock things although I do love the xjs. I'm planning to black out all the chrome like lister xjs did, lighten the whole car with no rear seats and new seats/ steering wheel, lowered and wide. (hence fat cat)
Very similar. Right now the car is black and already a mutt with the L98, so we are going to go more race car ish and less resto. also we are doing this in the driveway so we have some limitations on paint quality etc.
Overall plan is (in no order)
1. Bump up HP from 240 to a little over 300 (Cam, custom headers, new ECU/chip) just for some extra ooomph and growl. Nothing crazy.
2. Add back AC (love some ideas from SBC guys who have jags. The AC was not swapped in with the L98, I'm told there are going to be a lot of issues with hoses, connecting the chevy AC parts to the Jag parts)
3. 16 inch black steelies with new tires.
4. Redo suspension and looking to upgrade brakes if possible, I've seen one Wilwood conversion, hoping someone has a kit though.
5. Have a new dash, going to redo all the gauges. replace all the wood with carbon fiber wrap.
6. Interior, right now plan is to just recover the seats the same biscuit and a new carpet in mink. I'd like to go aluminum and race seats but he doesn't. May recover the arm rest with a Clash London Calling t shirt fabric.
7. Exterior is going to be White Pearl Raptor liner the three quarters above the bumpers and black Raptor liner below. The stainless trim is going to be blacked out either matt black or chrome black.
8. The hood is going to be a three D metallic Union Jack wrap.
98. LED headlights.
The Raptor liner is cheap, about $300 to do the whole car and easy to spray vs trying to do a quality paint job outside.
So that is the vision for what will be a 16YO's car. He is 14 now.
1. Going to be VERY difficult to get over 300 HP from stock L98 heads. Maybe 275 with a roller cam in the low 220's at .050 valve lift. But then it will idle terrible, have a narrow power band with TPI and be extremely difficult to tune. L98 heads just dont flow, have small runners and limited valve lift capacity.
2. A corvette serpentine system from a 1987 to 90 is the best. Has the best A/C compressor of the era. GM ditched the leaky A4 compressor for a world class Nippon-Denso unit. No matter what compressor you use you will need to make 2 custom hoses. Each one will need a Jag like fitting on one end and a Chevy like fitting on the other.
4. I did the only Wilwood front brakes project i know of. It's all custom, welded and machined. There is no bolt on solution. For a stock like 300HP car the front OE brakes are fine. The rear inboard brakes can be very deficient and difficult to repair.
As for the aesthetics, that is subjective but rust and faded paint are kind'a cool these days.
1. Going to be VERY difficult to get over 300 HP from stock L98 heads. Maybe 275 with a roller cam in the low 220's at .050 valve lift. But then it will idle terrible, have a narrow power band with TPI and be extremely difficult to tune. L98 heads just dont flow, have small runners and limited valve lift capacity.
2. A corvette serpentine system from a 1987 to 90 is the best. Has the best A/C compressor of the era. GM ditched the leaky A4 compressor for a world class Nippon-Denso unit. No matter what compressor you use you will need to make 2 custom hoses. Each one will need a Jag like fitting on one end and a Chevy like fitting on the other.
4. I did the only Wilwood front brakes project i know of. It's all custom, welded and machined. There is no bolt on solution. For a stock like 300HP car the front OE brakes are fine. The rear inboard brakes can be very deficient and difficult to repair.
As for the aesthetics, that is subjective but rust and faded paint are kind'a cool these days.
Thanks ICS. I followed your conversion. You should get with the Wilwood guys and work out a kit.
we got the car running right with the L98. Guy had set the firing order to a Ford, not a Chevy... drove it around a bit. Then it sat. Picked it back up a few months ago.
we decided to go full Ratguar and bare metal and clear coat it. Just finished. Here it is with now 17 YO.
Picked up some BBS 18 x 8 wheels, waiting to put those on.
Decided since the engine had to come out to fix a blown oil pan gasket leak we would upgrade. Putting in a 380HP/400FPT crate 350 and re-installing the TPI. Wait a month...
Next do the seals, wheels. Interior, still figuring out if we want to recover the seats and new carpet or put in Sparcos.
TPI is a great match for these cars. Dont go over board with the camshaft. Stock or No more than 212 degrees at 50 on the intake.
As for the suspension, more solid rack bushes would be a great upgrade. OK to use the hard ones, Aston Martin used solid Aluminum rack mounts on their version of the XJS. Have a good look at all the bushings, replace as necessary. There are many places where Urethane is a good idea, like the rack, small side of the rear trailing arm and upper front control arms. Use stock rubber other places. The round and forward most front subframe bushes are also a good idea. They will increase road feel considerably but with a commensurate amount of harshness. A trade off many will accept for a very noticeable increase in precision and feel.
New KYB shocks all around will be fine for a road car. I'm surprised the nose isnt more elevated with the SBC. Did someone lower it already? The stock V12 springs with a V8 make the car handle great, the lower weight effectively increases the real word spring rate and will bias the car towards under steer which is a bit safer for a young driver. TPI will still kick out the backend abruptly without judicious use of the go pedal. .
EBC red stuff pads offer up a great upgrade to brake feel and bite but you'll only get 1 or 2 high speed stops with the OE rotor size. Thats just a function of rotor mass and cooling. No bolt on choices for larger brakes but cooling ducts would help.
Last edited by icsamerica; 06-27-2020 at 03:21 PM.
12-25-2016, 05:06 PM
1985 XJS V8 - Outlaw
